Weird blemishes on my SS wheel gun.

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KennyFSU

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Received this wheel gun in a trade. Saw a few blemishes and figured it was something that could be scrubbed off. Well it's not that easy and when I tried using a soft plastic cleaning rod I noticed the clear finish was also rubbing off on the back of the gun near the grips.

The good news is that the grips cover up most of the marks. Any suggestions on how to remove this stuff? I've used Hoppes but to no avail. I assume I'll have to get the frame refinished. :(

Thanks all.


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Why remove it? It is a ccw gun and with ccw it should not be seen. Oh and it is not a BBQ gun either. If it does not effect the safety of the gun i.e. frame rot, leave it alone.
Just my two cents.
 
I already have a CCW (PM9) and a backup (442) but I guess I can use this is a truck gun, but for a car.


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That looks like a 642. If so, thats an aluminum frame. Its a later version with the clear coat finish. The clear coat is crazing and bubbling allowing moisture to get under it. The aluminum is corroding. (aluminums version of rust)

Three choices, get the clear coat off, either mechanically with a brush or with a solvent, clean the aluminum underneath and then keep oil on it. Option two, forget about it. By the time the grips frame corrodes through, we'll likely all be dead. Option three, send it back to Smith or a refinisher for a new coat of something.

Smith used to clear anodize the frames on the 642. It was tough and a good finish. They decided they didn't think the color match was right for the stainless, so, they painted them. The paint is not a very durable finish.
 
I would bet money that is not stainless but an aluminum frame.

The tells are the chip in the paint just above the grip pin, the logo is neither stamped or laser etched.
 
Yep you guys are right, it is a 642 with aluminum frame and the finish appears to be wearing away.


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Could it be the finish has reacted with something that has caused it to break down, such as salts and oils in human skin? If so, there's not much you can do about, but I would imagine it will be a very long time before it has any detrimental effect on function.
 
had one that did the same thing, sent it back to factory and the re finished it free of charge sold it and got a 642 stainless
 
Thanks guys, a lot of people have been saying that it is from sweat. Maybe I will call S&W and see what they say.


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Thanks guys, a lot of people have been saying that it is from sweat.
Click to expand...

It probably is from sweat. Particularly on the backstrap. Sweat from your hand contains salt. Once the finish has been degraded the salt is free to corrode the aluminum.

I once had a Cimarron revolver with their beautiful old fashioned 'charcoal blue' finish. Beautiful to behold, but just like most 19th Century blues, not vey robust. In less than a year the blue on the backstrap was completely gone, the underlying steel aged to a battleship gray color. All from the sweat of my hand.
 
Thanks for everyone's input. I'm going to contact Smith & Wesson on Monday and see if I can send it in to get a refinished.


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Uberti's "charcoal blue" isn't really charcoal blue. It's peacock nitre blue and notoriously fragile. Real charcoal blue, like Turnbull's carbona is much less "blue" and much more robust.
 
You might try a little lighter fluid and see if that removes the blemish. If not, send it back to S&W and they'll most likely refinish it. Aluminum is not a bad material for a gun frame, but the oils in some peoples' hands can do horrible things to guns. I had a friend who couldn't own blued guns because the oils in his hands just took the bluing off if he didn't clean them immediately. BreakFree CLP helped, but it was just a matter of killer chemistry. Even his stainless guns needed BreakFree on them to protect them. Me, I can handle blued guns and nothing happens. I clean them as a matter of course, but the oils in my hands aren't destructive.

If you get a new finish, don't feel you have to get rid of the gun. Chances are your personal chemistry isn't as destructive as the previous owner.
 
Could also be that the prior owner cleaned with something a little too abrasive. When I bought my 642, I was told by the dealer and their resident gunsmith not to use foaming bore cleaners on x42s with their painted aluminum frames as it would eventually cause the paint to crack and flake.
 
Is it a newer or older model 642? Judging by the lack of a lock I'm assuming it's an older model (although they are new making no lock models again). The older models were more prone to finish problems but I think it's since been corrected. Send it back and S&W should take care of it.
 
One of the reasons I've been switching to stainless steel only. As time marches on you will begin to see the effects of this new potmetal/poly craze. They are fine for the night stand and occasional use, but heavy use and the elements will reveal what they are made of.
 
skidder said:
One of the reasons I've been switching to stainless steel only. As time marches on you will begin to see the effects of this new potmetal/poly craze. They are fine for the night stand and occasional use, but heavy use and the elements will reveal what they are made of.
Click to expand...

There's nothing new about polymer being used in handguns. There also isn't a trace of pot metal in any Airweight S&W, it's made out of aluminum. There is also nothing new about aluminum being used in handguns either. It's been used on everything, from Colt 1911 to P-series Sigs.

The only time I'm not carrying my 637-3 is when I'm asleep or in the shower. Lately it's been seeing between between 2-300 rounds a month and goes through at least a 1/2 hour of presentation drills a day. The finish shows no sign of wear expect a slight shine on the normal spots. As I said before, some of the earlier models experienced finish issues but that seems to have been corrected. As I also said, people that do experience finish problems can usually have it refinished by S&W free of charge.

Edit to add : I use Hoopes #9 ( spray or jar) for cleaning and then oil lightly with Mil-Tec. That combo has never given me any issues.
 
Moisture and rubber grips. That is corrosion and common with aluminum and moisture.
 
Last edited:
skt239 said:
There's nothing new about polymer being used in handguns. There also isn't a trace of pot metal in any Airweight S&W, it's made out of aluminum. There is also nothing new about aluminum being used in handguns either. It's been used on everything, from Colt 1911 to P-series Sigs.

The only time I'm not carrying my 637-3 is when I'm asleep or in the shower. Lately it's been seeing between between 2-300 rounds a month and goes through at least a 1/2 hour of presentation drills a day. The finish shows no sign of wear expect a slight shine on the normal spots. As I said before, some of the earlier models experienced finish issues but that seems to have been corrected. As I also said, people that do experience finish problems can usually have it refinished by S&W free of charge.

Edit to add : I use Hoopes #9 ( spray or jar) for cleaning and then oil lightly with Mil-Tec. That combo has never given me any issues.
Click to expand...

Well let me add aluminum to my potmetal/poly not to buy list. And.... I'm referring to revolvers not autos.
You can continue to buy aluminum/potmetal/poly revolvers, and you can continue to have these kinds of problems. I'll stick with my stainless steel. ;)
 
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