Weird blemishes on my SS wheel gun.

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Aluminum is not pot metal and holds up quite nicely on a 50yr old Ruger. :rolleyes:

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Sweet gun:rolleyes:

CraigC-- I'm a stainless steel purist, but I do own 4 blued revolvers (grandfathered in). On my stainless revolvers I just use a maroon scotchbrite, and then go over it with a green brillo from under the sink. Mothers Mag for a polished finish.

After looking at the photo of the Smith again, it almost looks like they have somekind of painted finish over the aluminum. Haven't a clue how to fix something like that???:confused:
 
After looking at the photo of the Smith again, it almost looks like they have some kind of painted finish over the aluminum. Haven't a clue how to fix something like that???
It's a clearcoat, either an applied finish or clear anodizing and something has gotten under it. That's why it looks like ringworm. It's probably just been sweated on or possibly left a little damp a few times. Kinda like the old forged aluminum wheels on my truck, where the valve stem hole is where the moisture got under the clearcoat and it creeps out from there, just like ringworm. The only solution is to remove the clearcoat, either by chemical means or abrasive blasting media and either leave it bare or refinish it. The grip frame on the Ruger above was bead blasted and left bare 12yrs ago. The pic is no more than two years old and as you can see, it holds up fine with no finish. A polished finish requires a little more maintenance.
 
archanglecd ok even bigger difference in weight . Idea is the same . Weight the revolver. I have seen a couple range guns, scadimum that the owner cleaned in a sonic cleaner. Killed the finish on the guns. Made them look like cr*p.
 
What you have is under film corrosion. Based on a web search, I found the term "Filaform" corrosion. Look at the pictures here. http://www.finishing.com/565/93.shtml http://www.corrosionclinic.com/types_of_corrosion/filiform_corrosion_underfilm_corrosion.htm

Call S&W and see if they will refinish your airweight. This type of corrosion could be due to you, or if could be due to an improperly cleaned surface before it was coated.

Incidentally, I have seen this spider web corrosion on factory cartridges which makes me think that some cartridges are coated with something (probably ceresin wax) to keep them bright and shiny on the shelf.
 
Aluminum is not in the same class as pot metals like zinc alloys. The problems with that revolver have nothing to do with aluminum but with the clear coat finish.
 
Aluminum is not in the same class as pot metals like zinc alloys. The problems with that revolver have nothing to do with aluminum but with the clear coat finish.
Exactly. I have an nickel aluminum model 12-2 that looks like the day it was made and it was produced in 1976. Its not the aluminum its the coating.
 
Could you keep us updated? I am curious as to the outcome.

Sure, I called S&W today and they will charge $157 to refinish the frame only. Does that sound like a good deal? It's also an 8 week turn-around time. Thanks.



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Also, it's a newer Airweight (2009).

I really like that bare alloy look so maybe I can just get the frame blasted so strip the coating.


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Its a carry gun. Let it be. Just a tool. Or you could get some 1000 grit wet dry and use kroil oil on it and sand it to a polish if you wish.
 
Actually, the Airweight J frames are only 15oz, not 16 or 17oz.

An x42 does weight 17 oz once you put ammo in it :D . Well, 17.1 with Speer Gold Dot 135 grains to be exact.

Its a carry gun. Let it be. Just a tool. Or you could get some 1000 grit wet dry and use kroil oil on it and sand it to a polish if you wish.

Yeah, for that kinda money I'd just leave it alone. Save that money towards a mint blued model 10, something that looks fantastic to begin with. Even in perfect shape, the 642 isn't the prettiest gun around IMHO.

It's probably just been sweated on or possibly left a little damp a few times. Kinda like the old forged aluminum wheels on my truck, where the valve stem hole is where the moisture got under the clearcoat and it creeps out from there, just like ringworm.

Just curious (not to cause too much thread drift), are those forged alloys on a 90s GM product? My buddy's 93 Tahoe Blazer and my 95 C1500 did the exact same thing. Almost looked like chemical etching.
 
I would leave it alone, especially since they will put the same finish back on it and you may have the same problem again down the road. peeling of the finish is pretty common on the airweights and airlites.
 
Good point gentlemen. Thanks for the input.


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Hmmm... Looks like my post disappeared. Last I heard S&W was picking up the tab on finish issues with the Airweights. I think you should call and speak with a manager, seems like a problem with their finish isn't something you should pay for, especially on a new gun.

While I wouldn't spend the $157 on the refinish, I certainly couldn't keep the gun in that condition. Try to get Smith to pick up the tab, if that doesn't work, break out the same paper.
 
Well I'm not the original owner and the gun was produced in 2009 so the guy said warranty work was out of the question. :(


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Just curious (not to cause too much thread drift), are those forged alloys on a 90s GM product?
Forged aluminum on an `04 Silverado 2500HD. Any aluminum wheel with a clear coat will do it given enough time. Usually happens around the valve stem hole or around a wheel weight when clamped to the outside. Sometimes it just chips around a sharp edge. Something breaches the clearcoat and moisture makes its way in. Mine took 8yrs to get bad enough to be an eyesore but sometimes it happens sooner. Just like on the S&W in question.
 
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