Wet or Dry Case Cleaning?
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gsbuickman
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Oh boy, way to open up a can of worms. I can see both sides of the discussion and I admit it might be nice at times to be able to make your brass look like new if you're trying to recondition some old rare oxidized brass or something but for the majority of people I think using a vibratory shell cleaner like I do works just fine. I'm using a Frankford Arsenal quick n easy case tumbler with a corn & walnut media mix that does a pretty good job of cleaning and shining things up since my gf wound up mixing them. That's okay she still a keeper 
Depends on the volume you’re cleaning and how often. I have all 3 types of media. All work. The steel pins just work better. And they last forever. It’s hard to wash cobb and walnut shells in water and dawn. Takes forever to dry also.
tightgroup tiger
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I guess it depends on what your expectations are. All the methods work.
Dry media in a tumbler will get brass 'clean enough'. If you want shiny, you need to step up your game. Each method has trade-offs.
My reloading sessions usually have very small time windows so dry tumbling is my current method of choice.
My reloading sessions usually have very small time windows so dry tumbling is my current method of choice.
Cheesemaker
Member
Dry - quicker, not as clean but clean enough. If tumbling after depriming media can get stuck in the flash holes. Does not clean primer pockets.
Wet - more steps involved, makes brass look new, cleans primer pockets too (if deprimed).
I dry tumbled for years, went to wet a few years ago. It took me a few attempts to get my steps down to an efficient level. I don't mind the extra time to make my brass look new. Do I shoot any better with wet tumbled brass - no.
Wet - more steps involved, makes brass look new, cleans primer pockets too (if deprimed).
I dry tumbled for years, went to wet a few years ago. It took me a few attempts to get my steps down to an efficient level. I don't mind the extra time to make my brass look new. Do I shoot any better with wet tumbled brass - no.
GBExpat
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IMO, wet ... but I still have my two vibratory case cleaners for small batches and other small-parts-cleaning chores.
Dewey 68
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I cleaned some cases recently for the first time since getting a FART in my dry tumbler with corn cob media, and I forgot what a pain it is to get the media out of the flash holes afterwards. Maybe with walnut I wouldn't have that issue, but when I factor in the time for that, dry isn't that much faster. I always decap my brass before it goes in the FART so drying the brass afterwards is not a big deal and doesn't take long. People talk about how dry tumbling leaves a coating of dust on the brass that acts like a bit of lube, but if you use car wash soap with wax in it you get a similar effect.
I don't know if one method is really "better" than the other, except when you are cleaning really dirty/tarnished brass that you picked up at an outdoor range. Wet with pins really "shines" in that scenario.
I don't know if one method is really "better" than the other, except when you are cleaning really dirty/tarnished brass that you picked up at an outdoor range. Wet with pins really "shines"
in that scenario.jaguarxk120
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Wet is the best. Dry tumbling does not clean the case's, it just shines the outside.
The inside is still dirty and primer pockets still full of crud. Last year I bought some loaded 45 Colt shells at a estate sale.
Pulling down one of the rounds to check powder charge I found the inside of the case was dirtier than a sewer pipe.
I pulled the rest of the bullets and primers, tumbled the cases with pins till they were clean.
Remember if the inside of your cases are cruddy, then some of that crud will go down the barrel
when the cartridge is shot.
The inside is still dirty and primer pockets still full of crud. Last year I bought some loaded 45 Colt shells at a estate sale.
Pulling down one of the rounds to check powder charge I found the inside of the case was dirtier than a sewer pipe.
I pulled the rest of the bullets and primers, tumbled the cases with pins till they were clean.
Remember if the inside of your cases are cruddy, then some of that crud will go down the barrel
when the cartridge is shot.
Ruger 15151
Member
Wet tumbling for me. Cases and primer pockets come out looking like brand new brass. They don't necessarily shoot better but I personally like working with fresh looking brass. However, I take it one step further and tumble them in corncob media with a little NuFinish polish. This will keep them from tarnishing and it makes the sizing and bullet seating a bit smoother.
If you decide to go this route, be sure to buy Franklin’s magnet to help you handle the SS pins.
If you decide to go this route, be sure to buy Franklin’s magnet to help you handle the SS pins.
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jmorris
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I use dry walnut or dry corncob in vibratory tumblers, wet and wet with pins in rotary tumblers and ultrasonic wet and even a rag by hand with a brush for inside.
All work for getting brass clean enough to reload. What one I pick depends on the outcome I am looking for and the number of steps or work I want to do.
All work for getting brass clean enough to reload. What one I pick depends on the outcome I am looking for and the number of steps or work I want to do.
Mr_Flintstone
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To be honest, a lot of times I don’t clean mine at all.
I use corn cob, Nu Finish and dryer sheets for nice shinny brass and see no reason to deal with wet tumbling.
Guys always use the primer pockets not getting clean as an excuse to wet tumble but just a few years ago the big debate on these reloading forums was if primer pockets needed to be cleaned and the overwhelming response was no you're stupid for wasting you're time, funny how times change depending on peoples need to reason.
I don't seem to have any trouble with Midway corn cob media sticking in the flash holes or getting dirty and wearing out to fast. I'll use the same media until it's past green in color. Last box of media I purchased was over 5 years ago, changed the media out of my tumblers and still waiting on the next change out to use up the box of media.
As for the dusty complaint with dry media the Nu Finish and used dry sheets take care of the dust with the first or second tumble.
Guys always use the primer pockets not getting clean as an excuse to wet tumble but just a few years ago the big debate on these reloading forums was if primer pockets needed to be cleaned and the overwhelming response was no you're stupid for wasting you're time, funny how times change depending on peoples need to reason.
I don't seem to have any trouble with Midway corn cob media sticking in the flash holes or getting dirty and wearing out to fast. I'll use the same media until it's past green in color. Last box of media I purchased was over 5 years ago, changed the media out of my tumblers and still waiting on the next change out to use up the box of media.
As for the dusty complaint with dry media the Nu Finish and used dry sheets take care of the dust with the first or second tumble.
Lafitte
Member
I use walnut media with a little car polish added. After about an hour or so in the viberator they are good to go. By the way, I clean with the primers still in the case then when I deprime and size any media in the flash hole is punched out. If I am loading rifle cases with the intention of shooting gnats at 500 yds I clean the primer pockets with a brush before seating the primer.
Lafitte
Lafitte
Highland Lofts
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Since I bought my Farnkford wet tumbler I retired my dry tumbler and ultra sonic cleaner.
I deprime then tumble. It gets all that nasty crud off the cases and they come out really clean inside & out.
The cases don't need to be that clean but if you are going to tumble them why not have nice squeeky clean shinny brass.
It takes longer to wet tumble then dry the brass but it is well worth it to me.
I made drying racks to put the cases on , once the cases are on the racks I hit them with a air hose. Then let them sit in the sun on the picnic table to dry. If it is gray & damp out side i bring them in side to dry. I have thousands of cases in most calibers I have so I am never in a rush for my brass.
This is what comes off the cases when wet tumbled.
Dry tumbling will.never remove all this crud.
You will.not be exposted to the toxic dust that dry tumbling emits.
I will never go back to dry tumbleing.
I deprime then tumble. It gets all that nasty crud off the cases and they come out really clean inside & out.
The cases don't need to be that clean but if you are going to tumble them why not have nice squeeky clean shinny brass.
It takes longer to wet tumble then dry the brass but it is well worth it to me.
I made drying racks to put the cases on , once the cases are on the racks I hit them with a air hose. Then let them sit in the sun on the picnic table to dry. If it is gray & damp out side i bring them in side to dry. I have thousands of cases in most calibers I have so I am never in a rush for my brass.
This is what comes off the cases when wet tumbled.
Dry tumbling will.never remove all this crud.
You will.not be exposted to the toxic dust that dry tumbling emits.
I will never go back to dry tumbleing.
Project355
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I've never had issues with dust or anything much else with dry tumbling except, and it could be a deal breaker for some, walnut occasionally "stuck" in a flash hole, which sometimes destroys a decapping pin if you're not careful to check for obstruction.
I know nothing about dry tumbling except that which was shown me by the owner of the range where we loaded about a million and a half rounds a year from recycled lead from the range, and all the brass we could sweep up. He told me to add a little mineral spirits to the walnut media, and to save the old really dark media, and add a little white polishing compound to it with a little more spirits. That dark stuff, with its worn edges but a little Mother's compound as a secondary polish when desired, really got 'em gleaming. I've always followed his advise, and never had an issue, except as noted with the clogged flash holes. Those poke clean easy enough, you just have to watch for 'em. I'd check holes as I put em into my old Hornady progressive, and just toss 'em aside and poke out a batch when the cup was full. It was like maybe one in five hundred or so...
I know nothing about dry tumbling except that which was shown me by the owner of the range where we loaded about a million and a half rounds a year from recycled lead from the range, and all the brass we could sweep up. He told me to add a little mineral spirits to the walnut media, and to save the old really dark media, and add a little white polishing compound to it with a little more spirits. That dark stuff, with its worn edges but a little Mother's compound as a secondary polish when desired, really got 'em gleaming. I've always followed his advise, and never had an issue, except as noted with the clogged flash holes. Those poke clean easy enough, you just have to watch for 'em. I'd check holes as I put em into my old Hornady progressive, and just toss 'em aside and poke out a batch when the cup was full. It was like maybe one in five hundred or so...
irishlad
Contributing Member
I dry tumble using 20/40 corn blast media and nu finish. No media stuck in the primer pockets. I clean the primer pocket on my case prep when deburring. Works well for me. I wet cleaned once at my neighbor's. Lot more steps, but worked well too.
I believe it comes down to what works best for you.
I believe it comes down to what works best for you.
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Mr_Flintstone
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When I do wet tumble my brass, I finish it off by putting it back in the tumbler with a couple torn-up sheets of cheap paper towels. I tumble 5 minutes, and then for bottleneck brass, I replace the wet paper towels with dry ones, and go 5 more minutes. When I take the brass out, it is nearly dry inside and out. Another 10 minutes on the bench dries it completely.
+1 for wet tumbling... I also picked up a food dehydrator for $3 at a yard sale. Toss the brass in after you rinse it, and let it run overnight. Keep the temp set below 135°F to keep from softening your brass, and you have dry brass with no water spots, without having to find a place to spread it out.
bihj
Member
Another vote for the "wet" method, but I still own a tumbler.
Ruger 15151
Member
As you can see, it’s kind of a Ford vs. Chevy thing. Is one better than the other performance wise?... only if you are loading for precision 1000+ yard ammunition, then wet tumbling to remove carbon from the neck and primer pockets is important. Otherwise, it’s really just a question about what you want your brass to look like.
Dudedog
Contributing Member
No right or wrong answer.
I dry tumbled for a long time and was happy then I broke down and spent the money for a wet tumbler. (Lyman Cyclone)
Before I bought the dry tumbler I washed brass in a bucket of soapy water. Shot 1000s of rounds doing it that way and they all worked.
After wet tumbling I would not go back to dry.
Wet may take a little more effort but not that much. Is it slower, maybe.
I can run cases it my wet tumbler and have them spotless (not necessary but nice) in an hour.
Lay them out in the sun in the summer when it's 105 and they are dry in an hour. (and almost to hot to touch) so in the summer its as fast or faster than running them for hours in the dry vibe type cleaner)
When it is cool outside I just but them on an old towel in the corner of a room overnight, so then it is slower.
If you are buying the equipment to begin with I would say go with wet, it's a bit more money but I think the spotless like new brass is worth it.
Does the brass shoot any better, probably not, does it make me smile yes, do I shoot better when I am smiling? ah well to be honest sometimes. (sometimes I just can't seem to shoot well no matter what)
Blonds, Brunettes or Redheads, Ford or Chevy, only you you can decide what's right for you.
(well the government on occasion decides what is right for you because they know better than you do what is right for you but that is a different matter)
I dry tumbled for a long time and was happy then I broke down and spent the money for a wet tumbler. (Lyman Cyclone)
Before I bought the dry tumbler I washed brass in a bucket of soapy water. Shot 1000s of rounds doing it that way and they all worked.
After wet tumbling I would not go back to dry.
Wet may take a little more effort but not that much. Is it slower, maybe.
I can run cases it my wet tumbler and have them spotless (not necessary but nice) in an hour.
Lay them out in the sun in the summer when it's 105 and they are dry in an hour. (and almost to hot to touch) so in the summer its as fast or faster than running them for hours in the dry vibe type cleaner)
When it is cool outside I just but them on an old towel in the corner of a room overnight, so then it is slower.
If you are buying the equipment to begin with I would say go with wet, it's a bit more money but I think the spotless like new brass is worth it.
Does the brass shoot any better, probably not, does it make me smile yes, do I shoot better when I am smiling? ah well to be honest sometimes. (sometimes I just can't seem to shoot well no matter what
)Blonds, Brunettes or Redheads, Ford or Chevy, only you you can decide what's right for you.
(well the government on occasion decides what is right for you because they know better than you do what is right for you but that is a different matter)
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Totally personal preference. Each "side" can justify their choice with many "facts" and examples...
FWIW; I reloaded for 12 years before I got a tumbler. No scratched dies or ruined chambers. I just wiped each case with a solvent dampened rag as I inspected it (38 Spec, 357 Mag. 44 Special and 44 Mag.). Today I believe new reloaders are lead to believe that shiny, pristine brass is essential for reloading...
FWIW; I reloaded for 12 years before I got a tumbler. No scratched dies or ruined chambers. I just wiped each case with a solvent dampened rag as I inspected it (38 Spec, 357 Mag. 44 Special and 44 Mag.). Today I believe new reloaders are lead to believe that shiny, pristine brass is essential for reloading...
Ruger 15151
Member
I'd also add that if you decide to go the wet tumble route, pick up a cheap food dehydrator (Franklin's was just on sale on Amazon for $26). I can dry 1k 9mm or 500 223 cases in about 45 minutes and they are ready to load.
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