what am I doing wrong with my KP345

[jwharris]

I know you haven't watched me shoot it so your ability to help is limited. With that said, I'm starting to get frustrated.

I or the gun is consistently shooting low. If I start moving the front end up to compensate, it doesn't help. Either the sights are way off or I'm doing something right at the end of the trigger pull to point the barrel down.
a) Has anyone had similiar problems (I'm hoping the answer is no so that I can rule out the sights problem).
b) If you were in this situation, and given the various posted complaints about the trigger pull, would you spend the money to have the trigger pull loosened up? (Anyone know a good gun smith for Ruger trigger work?) I suspect I got into some bad habit jerking the trigger at the end of the pull to compensate for the harder trigger pull but I'm consciously thinking about that now so you'd think I'd fix that problem.

I've not had this problem with either the S&W Model 19 or Ruger GP100 I shoot.

 

[jman74]

I just got rid of my KP345. I couldn't shoot that gun no matter how hard I tried. I love my P90 and P89 to death, but the 345 had to go. It was the first gun out of the 30+ I have that I've ever gotten rid of. Luckily I got what I paid for it in trade on a S.A. Hi-Cap. Sorry this doesn't answer your question, but just wanted to let you know you not the only one out there who this gun doesn't work for.

 

[JDGray]

Try letting someone else shoot it, chances are, your pushing it. The mainspring for all the Ruger autos, is the same, although wolff doesn't list one for the P345 yet. I installed the 19# spring, and it works great. Dont give up on this great gun, and I've heard of the rear sight getting bent down, as it has alot of overhang, it should be parallel to the slide

 

[DIXIEKIMBER]

KP345

I'VE HAD MY 345 FOR ALMOST A YEAR, DON'T SHOOT IT AS MUCH AS MY 1911 BUT IT IS VERY ACCURATE. YOU MAY BE PUSHING AT THE END OF THE TRIGGER PULL. IT IS A LIGHT GUN AND THE KICK CAN MAKE YOU PUSH WITHOUT REALIZING IT. I AGREE, LET SOMEONE ELSE GIVE IT A TRY AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.

 

[Trebor]

It's a problem with trigger pull or follow through. Try dry-firing the gun, alot, so you can get used to the trigger and also break it in a bit. Balance a dime on the slide just behind the front sight and try to pull the trigger all the way through without dropping the dime. When shooting live ammo, focus on the front sight and watch it as it recoils up. You should be able to learn to call your shots by telling exactly where the sight was when the shot broke. That will help you maintain consistent follow through.

A heavy or long trigger makes shooting more difficult, but you should still be able to master it. Give it some more practice before you decide the gun isn't right for you.

 

[Handgun Midas]

My new 345 only has about 300 rounds through it, but I'm nowhere near as accurate with it as I am with my Kimber at the same range with the same ammo.

I'm working on repressing a flinch and trying very hard to implement a correct trigger pull so I don't push 7 with all my guns. With the 1911, this results in drilling out the bullseye at 12-15 yards. With the 345, this results in a tight scattering a few inches to the left of the bullseye; but not low enough so that I think it's a 7'o'clock push.

This is worrisome to me because I purchased the Ruger to be my HD and carry gun. I would try to adjust the rear sights but I don't have the tools on hand to knock the sights around without damaging them. I hope it's just a matter of needing practice with the weapon, because it's been sleeping beside me loaded for a few weeks now.

 

[DIXIEKIMBER]

DRY FIRING THE 345

BE CAREFUL DRY FIRING THE 345 TOO MUCH. THIS PISTOL HAS A MAGAZINE OUT SAFETY (CAN'T REMEMBER PROPER TERM) THAT PREVENTS THE PISTOL FROM FIRING WITHOUT A MAGAZINE SEATED IN THE GUN. DRY FIRING THE 345 WILL DAMAGE THIS MECHANISM.

 

[TC95GT]

I started using this target recently and it really has helped. You might want to give it a try.

 

[makarovnik]

Slip in a dummy round

Have a friend load your magazine and slip in a couple of dummy rounds or snap caps. When you try to fire the randomly placed dummy rounds you will be able to see yourself pushing the muzzle down to compensate for muzzle flip. Then just practice with only dummy rounds and you should be able to overcome pushing down. Have you tried pulling the trigger back to the point where the sear is just getting ready to break and then just giving that extra little squeeze to fire?

 

[pablo45]

I had that gun for about two days. One day i bought it the next i sold it. The accurassy was way off. Every couple of rounds would jam and it was the hardest gun to clear. I know this does not answer your question either but i think they might of just messed up on this model. All others i have owned and loved. The p89, p90, p91, p94 and the p95(3) all excellent.

 

[Handgun Midas]

I put another 150 rds through my P345 today, and I'm still a bit inaccurate with it. It's got to be that trigger; I'm so used to a 1911 and I guess I'm now missing what that trigger design offers.

I also had two FTLs and over a dozen Slide-Lock failures with both my mags. It got to the point where I'd load one round in the mag and just lob it downrange to see how many slide-lock failures I could get.

When I got home I cleaned it very thoroughly and re-lubed it with Slide-Glide. I hope I cleaned the mags good enough. I'm going to try and get back to the range for another 50rds tommorrow.

It just seems like I could put $100 worth of ammo through this thing and not achieve the same level of confidence that I had with my Kimber out of the box. Not a good revelation for your intended carry piece, y'know?

 

[choochboost]

I don't know how low your shots are but aside from poor trigger control, it could also be a situation where its zeroed in for greater distances than you're shooting. For example, a handgun which is zeroed in at 25 metres (such as a USP) will shoot "low" at closer targets. The trick is to cover the bulleye instead of the using the 6 o'clock target-shooting hold.

 

[Handgun Midas]

I'm not shooting low, though. I'm shooting to the left. Often I'm right in line with the bullseye, but and inch or three to the left of it.

With the targets that I'm using, at the distances that I'm practicing, I can drill the bulleyes out with my 1911, if I concentrate. It's got to be all in the trigger pull.

The analytical target posted above places my shots in the "Too Little Trigger Finger" catagory. I did reduce my trigger finger placement quite heavily after watching that Todd Jarrett grip lesson vid. Worked for my 1911, but maybe not my Ruger.

 

[JDGray]

HandgunMidas, I had to drift my sight, shot left. Get a brass punch, and a hammer, and hit it hard.

 

[chaim]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

BE CAREFUL DRY FIRING THE 345 TOO MUCH. THIS PISTOL HAS A MAGAZINE OUT SAFETY (CAN'T REMEMBER PROPER TERM) THAT PREVENTS THE PISTOL FROM FIRING WITHOUT A MAGAZINE SEATED IN THE GUN. DRY FIRING THE 345 WILL DAMAGE THIS MECHANISM.

It is true that the magazine disconnect is a poor design but you are only partially right. Dry firing with the magazine removed can damage the gun. Dry firing with a mag in the gun should be just fine.

 

[Handgun Midas]

I put another hundred through my P345 today. Accuracy started off better than before but is still a bit low for me. I bought some snap caps to work some drills with the gun, so I also plan on extensive dry firing in hopes that I can get past any trigger pull issues that could be hurting me.

No slide-lock failures today; I reckon the gun was just dirty.
Although the last two times I have taken this gun to the ranger I have noticed a peculiar occurance with the recoil. Intermittently, the recoil will feel different, delayed, as if the slide is pausing for a bare moment on it's way back to battery. This happens a once every few mags or so, but it doesn't seem to be the cause of any malfunction

 

[RecoilRob]

Changing the hammer spring to one a bit lighter should make a world of difference in the trigger pull.

My experience with P-series Rugers (85,90,94,95,97) is that the hammer springs are compressed almost to or actually to bind. I trimmed the spring seat on several of them until the hammer would go to full cock without encountering the extra resistance of coil bind.

You might check to see if yours is experiencing this problem. And, guaranteed...your shooting will improve with a lighter trigger pull.

 

[Handgun Midas]

+1 Dad

My father and I visited a benchrest orientated range yesterday, and I pulled out my 45's so he could try 'em. You were supposed to lean way forward and put the muzzle of the pistol into these firing tubes they had affixed to each lane; for suppression purposes I guess. It was uncomfortable to shoot that way and my father had never fired my P345 before, but...

Ol' dad lit it up. He took bullseyes apart at about 20yrds where I can't reign that gun in at 7yrds. I made him repeat the feat and he did.

So... there's nothing wrong with the way my P345 shoots, sights, or pulls.
I just suck.

 

[fastbolt]

One of the first things I often try when a shooter is exhibiting what I suspect is anticipatory flinching ... but adamantly denies any flinching ... is to take his/her pistol and either introduce a dummy round into the mix, or simply shuffle the rounds around, distracting the shooter from realizing that I emptied the chamber and left it empty ... and ask them to fire another round while I watch.

When they experience for themselves the sudden downward flinching at the end of their trigger stroke, when the pistol goes 'click' without firing, it pretty much illustrates what I was trying to offer as the possible problem ... and then they're more willing to listen. being unable to 'feel' the flinching during the firing and recoil cycle sometimes makes it hard for folks to accept that they're flinching, which is reasonable, after all.

Many folks would rather blame the pistol, or the ammunition, than admit something is possibly shooter-related. Once that first step has been made, it can be addressed via instruction and practice ...

 

[George Hill]

Get a .22 pistol like a Buckmark or the like.
Buy a couple bulk packs of your favorite .22 load.
Shoot until your ammo is gone.
Then try your .45 again.

You gotta develop your handgunning fundamentals.

So unplug and get out to the range.

 

[RecoilRob]

Hey Midas,
I just got a P345 and have been digging into it. The magazine safety is NOT a good thing (see my post in Autoloader Forum) for function or shootability.

Have only a few rounds through it after the Mag Safety removal but believe it has changed the pistol into a keeper. Please give it a try. Rob

 

[chaim]

Although the last two times I have taken this gun to the ranger I have noticed a peculiar occurance with the recoil. Intermittently, the recoil will feel different, delayed, as if the slide is pausing for a bare moment on it's way back to battery.

Mine often feels that way as well. It seems to be most common after firing for a little while and seems to be alleviated by re-oiling the rails so it was one of the things that made me think that maybe mine liked to run wet. Of course, it happened again (as well as the actual malfunctions I was trying to cure) on my last range session and the rail had a generous amount of grease so who knows.