What is the best grease for an M1A?
- Thread starter Beethoven
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ocabj
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Purists will recommend plastilube or lubriplate. Others, like myself, use wheel bearing grease.
f4t9r said:
I want a good quality grease that will work well.
Someone pointed me to some stuff that comes in a syringe that is $15 for a tiny syringe!
I'm not nuts!
Some of you are telling me I can go to an auto parts store and just get some quality automotive grease?
TrafficMan
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Northridge has little "Rifle Grease" pots that are designed to be inserted into the stock storage area....i do believe it's Lubriplate, but not sure. It's like 50cents per pot I think....
Voodoo
Member
Beethoven said:
That $15-a-syringe stuff you are referring to is probably XF7. It's good stuff, and well worth the $$$, imo. I've tried all of the quality greases, and I like XF7 the best. FWIW, I use to use Militec.
Smith Enterprises endorses and uses XF7 exclusively...pretty good endorsement, if you ask me.
Besides, your probably going to spend upwards of $1300 for a new M1A. And now you're going to worry about spending $15?
dfariswheel
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The National Match M14 and M1A shooters I know use Plasti-Lube, Lubriplate, or any one of a variety of automotive greases.
The truth is, any good quality, waterproof, heat-resistant grease works about as well as anything else.
I know one heavy-duty NM shooter that uses Wal-Mart Super-Tech Moly-Lithium grease that he buys at Wal-Mart in cartridges.
He claims it lubes as well as anything he's ever tried, including the "high tech" expensive stuff.
The truth is, any good quality, waterproof, heat-resistant grease works about as well as anything else.
I know one heavy-duty NM shooter that uses Wal-Mart Super-Tech Moly-Lithium grease that he buys at Wal-Mart in cartridges.
He claims it lubes as well as anything he's ever tried, including the "high tech" expensive stuff.
Moondoggie
Member
I picked up several of the little pots of GI Rifle Grease for $0.20 each at a gunshow recently.
I also scored a 14 oz can (new) of Lubriplate at an estate auction recently for $3.00...waaaay more than a lifetime supply.
Hey, Beethoven, if you'd like to PM me with your snail mail address I'll send you a couple of the little pots to get you started....gratis.
I also scored a 14 oz can (new) of Lubriplate at an estate auction recently for $3.00...waaaay more than a lifetime supply.
Hey, Beethoven, if you'd like to PM me with your snail mail address I'll send you a couple of the little pots to get you started....gratis.
Voodoo
Member
I bought my first tube of XF7 from Brownells about 4,000 rounds ago. I've used less than half the tube. It works so well that it seems like I actually use less of it than I would have with another grease. I would say ounce per ounce, XF7 probably costs less that most of the other "super" lubes.
XF7 is the creation of the the same guy that makes Mad Dog Knives, Kevin McClung. He runs a discussion forum, but unfotunately, I forgot the web address.
XF7 is the creation of the the same guy that makes Mad Dog Knives, Kevin McClung. He runs a discussion forum, but unfotunately, I forgot the web address.
Jayb
Member
Lubriplate was the original grease issued by the military for the M-14. Lubriplate 130-A is the grease you want. Lubriplate makes many types of lithium-based lubricants, and some are NOT suitable for firearms. Any local industrial supply house should be able to order it for you in 14oz, or 5lb containers. The 14oz can I bought a few years ago was $7.79 off the shelf. I still have 80% of it left. It doesn't take much to do the job.
Not slamming the newer lubricants, but old as I am, I don't experiment too much.
Not slamming the newer lubricants, but old as I am, I don't experiment too much.
I bought a tube of TW25 at the Gunsite pro-shop for $8.50.
I bought it because the instructors of several classes I took there recommended it. According to them, they found that in that hot desert environment, where you are maintaining high round counts for a week, this grease has proven (to them) that it is the best stuff they have tried.
I have no way of knowing if it is any better than anything else, but, I have to use something and I figured that TW25 is at least as good as anything else that I might randomly pick.
I have been using that tube of TW25 for about three years on rifles, pistols, and shotguns (and a few other things that needed lubrication) and I figure at my present rate of use it ought to last me at least another three years.
I bought it because the instructors of several classes I took there recommended it. According to them, they found that in that hot desert environment, where you are maintaining high round counts for a week, this grease has proven (to them) that it is the best stuff they have tried.
I have no way of knowing if it is any better than anything else, but, I have to use something and I figured that TW25 is at least as good as anything else that I might randomly pick.
I have been using that tube of TW25 for about three years on rifles, pistols, and shotguns (and a few other things that needed lubrication) and I figure at my present rate of use it ought to last me at least another three years.
Crosshair
Member
Should one use grease on an SKS???
Powderman
Member
Hey, Beethoven:
Don't forget when you get your grease to order one of the tools used for lubricating the bolt roller. These are available from Brownell's, and they make life a LOT easier.
Also, remember the conventional wisdom for lubing with grease: If the part is exposed (such as the locking lugs, sight assembly, etc.) use oil. If the part is NOT exposed, use grease.
I use Lubriplate for my Garand and my M1A. Wherever there is a lot of metal to metal movement, I use Lubriplate. On the small contact points (sear and disconnector points, trigger and hammer pivots, extractor and ejector) I use a good oil. I recommend Microil, available from Kano Laboratories (same folks that make Kroil), at: www.kanolaboratories.com
It is a good medium weight oil that will not burn off readily, and keeps its tensile strength for a good long time.
Good luck with that M1A!
Don't forget when you get your grease to order one of the tools used for lubricating the bolt roller. These are available from Brownell's, and they make life a LOT easier.
Also, remember the conventional wisdom for lubing with grease: If the part is exposed (such as the locking lugs, sight assembly, etc.) use oil. If the part is NOT exposed, use grease.
I use Lubriplate for my Garand and my M1A. Wherever there is a lot of metal to metal movement, I use Lubriplate. On the small contact points (sear and disconnector points, trigger and hammer pivots, extractor and ejector) I use a good oil. I recommend Microil, available from Kano Laboratories (same folks that make Kroil), at: www.kanolaboratories.com
It is a good medium weight oil that will not burn off readily, and keeps its tensile strength for a good long time.
Good luck with that M1A!
30Cal
Member
I use whichever grease is closest to my hand. Lubriplate, plastilube, white lithium or Tetra.
It really doesn't matter. The important thing is to remove the old grease after you're done shooting and to put fresh grease on. Cycle the action a bunch of times, then wipe off most of the grease you just put on. Done.
Ty
It really doesn't matter. The important thing is to remove the old grease after you're done shooting and to put fresh grease on. Cycle the action a bunch of times, then wipe off most of the grease you just put on. Done.
Ty
MarineTech
Member
I use Militec on all my service rifles and have had excellent luck with it.
Simple, the tool forces the grease in between the roller itself and the portion of the bolt that it rides on. Since this is a very high use area for the M14, it's very important to get the grease in there.
Simple, the tool forces the grease in between the roller itself and the portion of the bolt that it rides on. Since this is a very high use area for the M14, it's very important to get the grease in there.
Crosshair
Member
I greased up my Garand last night in all the places last night. Few more questions.
1. Too much grease is better than too little, right. The extra will get slung off and just make a mess.
2. Do I use grease on the op rod spring or do I leave that dry?
1. Too much grease is better than too little, right. The extra will get slung off and just make a mess.
2. Do I use grease on the op rod spring or do I leave that dry?
'Miracle' lubes
A decade ago, I bought a kit of DSX lubes at a gun show. "DSX" stands for Desert Storm eXperimental, as these synthetic products were developed so that weapons exposed to the grit and dust of the sandbox wouldn't foul up. From another website:
DSX: Fluoropolymer Lubricants and Preservatives
Description: DSX is a concentrate of premium fluoropolymer particles (.02 microns) freely floated and permanently suspended in a variety of environmentally safe carriers. DSX products are available in oil, grease, wax, and sprays. DSX lubricants repel sand, water, ice and salt. DSX coats and preserves Stainless Steel, Aluminum, Metal Alloys and other materials such as Fiberglass and Kevlar. DSX is environmentally safe because it contains no petroleum or hydrocarbons. TIC - Tribology International Corporation Tomorrow's Technology Today 644 B1 North Woodland Blvd. DeLand, FL 32720 Ph. 904/738-4601 * FAX 904/738-2855 e-mail [email protected] URL http://www.DSXLube.com
Best stuff I've ever used....though the domain name above is currently 'parked' and not in use...Wonder if they've changed their name?
Cheers
A decade ago, I bought a kit of DSX lubes at a gun show. "DSX" stands for Desert Storm eXperimental, as these synthetic products were developed so that weapons exposed to the grit and dust of the sandbox wouldn't foul up. From another website:
DSX: Fluoropolymer Lubricants and Preservatives
Description: DSX is a concentrate of premium fluoropolymer particles (.02 microns) freely floated and permanently suspended in a variety of environmentally safe carriers. DSX products are available in oil, grease, wax, and sprays. DSX lubricants repel sand, water, ice and salt. DSX coats and preserves Stainless Steel, Aluminum, Metal Alloys and other materials such as Fiberglass and Kevlar. DSX is environmentally safe because it contains no petroleum or hydrocarbons. TIC - Tribology International Corporation Tomorrow's Technology Today 644 B1 North Woodland Blvd. DeLand, FL 32720 Ph. 904/738-4601 * FAX 904/738-2855 e-mail [email protected] URL http://www.DSXLube.com
Best stuff I've ever used....though the domain name above is currently 'parked' and not in use...Wonder if they've changed their name?
Cheers
db_tanker
Member
http://www.magnalube.com/
I have used this on a FAL, Mini-14, AR-15, M1A, and a CETME, not including other self loaders like 22's....and I have never had a jam.
Good stuff bro...I have a one lb can at my toolbox and another one lb can in my range box.
They are starting to sell them in tubes, I have noticed...lots easier to carry around...
Just apply with a q-tip or somthing similar...don't glop it on...just give it a nice sheen...and thats it. ITs genrally good for at least a few battle packs of ammo...
D
I have used this on a FAL, Mini-14, AR-15, M1A, and a CETME, not including other self loaders like 22's....and I have never had a jam.
Good stuff bro...I have a one lb can at my toolbox and another one lb can in my range box.
They are starting to sell them in tubes, I have noticed...lots easier to carry around...
Just apply with a q-tip or somthing similar...don't glop it on...just give it a nice sheen...and thats it. ITs genrally good for at least a few battle packs of ammo...
D
AZ Jeff
Member
Yes, grease the op rod spring lightly. The cycling of the spring in the op rod will distribute the grease up and down it's length nicely.Crosshair said:
I tend to get carried away with grease sometimes on my M-1, but it's a self-solving problem. The rifle flicks the excess into my face upon firing.
My application mirrors 444's.
My M1 Garands and M14NM use TW-25B.
http://www.jhllc.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=milcomm&Category_Code=data_tw25b
My M1 Garands and M14NM use TW-25B.
http://www.jhllc.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=milcomm&Category_Code=data_tw25b
Lubriplate 130-A is the original, works fine. Auto chassis lube works just fine and the price is certainly right. Of late I have been using Militec grease. Bought a grease gun tube of it from Brownell's and that should last me a long, long time.
The Militec just seems to let the rifle run a little slicker and smoother. I don't use too much as a little gets the job done and at times it gets pretty dusty around here.
The Militec just seems to let the rifle run a little slicker and smoother. I don't use too much as a little gets the job done and at times it gets pretty dusty around here.
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