What oil/lube, cleaner, and rust prevention products?

[Dynasty]

I'm about to purchase my first firearms since I recently turned 18. I have been waiting for this day for a long time. I want to do things right so my firearms last. That means proper maintenance. I've noticed there are tons of oils/lubes, cleaners, and rust prevention products available. I'm having trouble picking out ones that actual work well. When you suggest a product please state why (ex: personal experience, read reviews, etc.).

Please suggest me a:

Oil/lube-

Cleaner-

Rust prevention-

 

[strat81]

General powder solvent and cleaner: Hoppes #9 Nitro Solvent
Copper Solvent: Montana X-Treme Copper Killer
Cleaner, Lubricant, Rust Preventer: Breakfree CLP
All-purpose grease: NAPA White Lithium Grease

Certain guns require certain products. For example, M1 Garands call for grease for lubrication, not oil. Certain environmental conditions can affect performance of certain lubes too.

That said, CLP and Hoppes #9 get used A LOT on my bench. Walmart carries them, and any decent gun shop should too.

 

[Library Guy]

This is the stuff of religious wars.

I’ve tried many products but hardly all of them. If you use a name brand product and follow the directions that apply, you should do okay.

So what do you need?

A bore solvent: Hoppes #9, Butch's, Kroil, or the like. Again follow the directions and know the limitations of the product.

Oil as lube and rust preventive: CLP, RemOil, any household 3 in 1 oil will work.

Grease: Some semi-autos benefit from a wee amount of grease. Make sure it’s a grease for lubricating and not preserving. White lithium grease from the auto parts store works on my Garand.

The type of gun and the way you use it might dictate the products you need. But most of us who aren't Navy SEALS can get by with the above. Remember, read the directions. Even good products can fail and frustrate you if you don’t follow the directions.

PS, I like Ballistol best of all…

 

[SsevenN]

Breakfree Powder blast
Hoppes#9
Breakfree CLP

Every time I shoot any gun

 

[TX1911fan]

Oil/lube- Rem Oil or Militec-1 (got a sample at SHOT and I like it)

Cleaner- SLIP 2000 Gun Lubricant

Rust prevention-SLIP 2000 Gun Lubricant

Any of the other sugestions is equally a good.

 

[K3]

Solvent: Boretech Eliminator

Rust Preventative: CLP

Lube: Usually CLP. Sometimes an oil or grease depending upon the application.

I also keep Kroil, RemOil, moly grease, and your basic Hoppes gun oil handy.

 

[Flame Red]

The best oil and cleaner is the cheapest! For oil, use 0W Mobil-1 synthetic. $5 quart at WallyWorld will last you a life time. For cleaner use Ed's Red. You can Google the formula, but I just mixed up:

• 2 Gallons of Oderless Mineral Spirits
• 1 Gallon of Auto Tranny Fluid
• 1 Gallon of Kerosene

You can also add 1 gallon of Acetone, but then it will remove the finish off your wood grips - so I recommend leaving that out.

I just field strip the firearm, and put the parts in a bucket that contains this stuff. A small kitchin colander on the bottom suspended from some wire makes it so you don't have to get you hand submersed. Just use a old toothbrush and everything comes right off. I hear it works great in a part cleaner, but I don't have room for that.

Throw out all the expensive other garbage.

 

[Werewolf]

Please suggest me a:

Oil/lube-

Mobil 1 synthetic - 30W works well for parts that need oiling, lithium grease for slides, etc

Cleaner-

Butch's Bore Shine - Best general purpose cleaner I've found. Works great on fouling, good on copper, so-so on lead. But then for lead and copper you really should use the appropriate solvent though I've been known to use water diluted anhydrous ammonia on occasion with mucho success at removing copper.

Rust prevention-

Breakfree CLP. Works fine and lasts a long time and in a pinch can be used as an adequate leaner. Makes a lousy lube though IMO.

 

[K3]

I just field strip the firearm, and put the parts in a bucket that contains this stuff. A small kitchin colander on the bottom suspended from some wire makes it so you don't have to get you hand submersed. Just use a old toothbrush and everything comes right off. I hear it works great in a part cleaner, but I don't have room for that.

Throw out all the expensive other garbage.

What about bore cleaning? Do you immerse your barrel? Does this formula get copper fouling?

 

[Werewolf]

What about bore cleaning? Do you immerse your barrel?

Yes...

Does this formula get copper fouling?

NO... Not in my experience.

 

[strat81]

Does this formula get copper fouling?

There isn't anything in Ed's Red which chemically dissolves copper fouling in rifle bores, but it does a better job removing carbon and primer residue than anything else which is safe and commonly available. Numerous users have told me, that exclusive use of "ER" reduces copper deposits, because it removes the old impacted powder fouling which is left by other cleaners, which reduces the abrasion and adhesion of jacket metal to the bore surface, leaving a cleaner surface condition which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience seems to indicate that "ER" will actually remove metal fouling it if you let it "soak," so the surfactants will do the job, though you have to be patient.
http://www.lasc.us/EdsRedBoreCleaner.htm

YMMV.

 

[Deanimator]

Shooter's Choice to clean.
ClenzOil to lubricate.
If I need to flush particulate matter from hard to reach areas, I use either Shooter's Choice spray cleaner or Gun Scrubber.

 

[Dynasty]

Do I have the basic/general maintenance routine down correctly?

1) Disassemble firearm and soak in "Ed's Red".

2) Brush with toothbrush and wipe down.

3) Apply small amount of Mobil 1 0-30w synthetic motor oil to appropriate parts/areas.

4) Apply Break Free CLP to bore and/or other parts/areas.

I realize every firearm is different. I plan on getting a .22LR (Marlin Model 60) and 12 ga shotgun (NEF Pardner) to start with if that helps when suggesting products or procedures.

 

[P97]

I have mostly Stainless guns in both, long and short guns. The only thing I've used for several years has been Eezox. Use on Auto's and it works fine for me.

 

[obiwan1]

Hoppes Semi Auto solvent and then either Eezox, Militec 1, or Weapon Shield. Grease with either Tetra gun grease or Militec 1 grease.

 

[Crimp]

Hoppes #9 - clean.
Slide-Glide - lube sliding parts.
Breakfree CLP - lube rotating parts.
Breakfree CLP - rust prevention.

 

[Soybomb]

I think people go nuts with cleaning and enjoy a big involved ritual with their guns and cleaning them since its more time to play with them after the range is over. Its a chore for me. CLP and eezox usually come out tops in any rust prevention test so I use them for that. CLP or hoppes work just fine for cleaning bores for me. CLP seems to be a fine lubricant as well. I bought a tube of grease and refilled it with wheel bearing grease. It seems fine too. I don't think spending a bunch of money on a cabinet full of goods that make claims worthy of an infomercial gets you much.

 

[Superlite27]

I personally:

1) disassemble everything.
2) soak everything in Hoppe's #9 for about ten minutes.
3) use a stiff bristle brush to scrub everything & a bore brush to clean the bore.
4) spray everything with brake cleaner and wipe dry.
5) swab the bore
6) cover everything with whatever "gun oil" I currently have
7) wipe dry
8) add a small (read: very tiny) amount of EP or high pressure grease to areas where there is moving metal to metal contact (like slide rails).
9) reassemble

Most of the time I merely disassemble, wipe everything down, and reassemble. But I do the former steps every so often, or after an especially heavy day at the range.

I am a firm believer that moving parts need lubrication, yet too much lubrication will lead to sand, dirt clods, and shards of broken glass and any other type of contaminant you decide to throw in, suspended in a gooey mess.

Moderation is the key.

I'm a big fan of Hoppe's #9, but realize that this is a solvent. It chemically breaks down contaminants. Don't pour some Hoppe's into a container, dip your brush, scrub your gun, dip, scrub, dip, scub, etc.... then pour the left over Hoppe's back into the bottle. You have just added contaminants into your bottle of Hoppe's where it will continue to chemically break down these contaminants. This will lessen the effectiveness of your remaining Hoppe's.

Is anyone here familiar with the "dry lubricants" I've been seeing advertised? This sounds good to me. I like dry. I like lube. "dry lube" sounds like the best of both worlds.

 

[hksw]

Lube: Mobil 1 Synthetic 15W50
Clean : Hoope's 9 or Butch's Bore
Protect : Boeshield T9
Non-liquid Lube : moly or lith grease

 

[tblt]

hoppe's #9 oil
hoppe's solvant

 

[thebaldguy]

Hoppe's or whatever solvent is handy
LP (the non cleaning version of Breakfree CLP)