What to do with a heavily pitted 870 (beyond rust removal)?

[Macchina]

I got a great deal on a 90's era 12ga 870 Express Magnum. The guy was selling it cheap because he never shoots it and it rusted on one side from storage. The inside is prefectly clean.

I have wire brushed off all the rust, but that really showed the depth of the pits. It's not a structural problem at all, just looks pretty funny. The pits are mostly on one side of the barrel and cover the non-ejector side of the receiver.

I did a (halfway) decent cold blue on it, and the wire brush matched the texture of the bead blasting surprisingly well, however a decent-looking gun it is not.

I have a few options here:

1. It's an 870: leave it be and don't cry if it rusts more.
2. Send it to someone for a hot blueing job or parkerizing.
3. Get it coated with something that will both fill the pits and weatherproof it forever.

I'm leaning towards 1 or 2. If I were to get it coated, is there anything thick enough to fill rust pits? About how much does it cost? Any recommendations?

 

[carbine85]

Pictures will help.
Unless there is something special about this 870 I wouldn't spend any money on it. They typically aren't worth the much.
Where is the pitting?
Replacement barrels are easy to get. Coating or parkerizing would fill in the pits so you could end up spending good money and still not be happy with it.
Gunkote finishes are easy to apply. Have you thought about doing it yourself.

 

[Macchina]

I uploaded some pictures of the pitting above.
I wouldn't mind doing something myself if it's durable, I don't have any experience with any of the bake-on finishes. I'd rather have a pitted gun than a scratched up paint job.

 

[RetiredUSNChief]

If the internals are clean and functional, then what you have is nothing more than surface pitting that "doesn't affect fit/form/function".

Remove the rust and preserve the gun by bluing and normal, routine cleaning/oiling.

All that said, you could spend whatever amount you wish on restoration efforts...such as maybe coating the gun or something. But honestly, the gun isn't worth (dollar value) putting a lot into it for this.

The 870 is a beater...it will hold up under a lot. It will still be a good hunting gun, skeet/trap shooting gun, or home defense gun. Use the shotgun for exactly this and don't worry about making it a show piece.

Nice thing about having a shotgun like this...you're far less upset about nicking the stock or banging the barrel when you're out in the field hunting than you would be with a new gun.

 

[Macchina]

Note: I bought my first gun when I turned 13. It was a Remington 870 Express Super Magnum. My go-to shotgun is still that 870. I picked this extra 870 only because it was such a great price ($150 with $50 in slugs and buckshot thrown in). I'm well aware of the pure utilitarian existence of the 870 Express. My brother bought a Mossberg 500 (of course) and though it's lighter and holds an extra round, I decided to commit at least 4 lifetimes to using 870s by owning two

If I coat it, it will only be to make it super weather proof for rainy day hunts.

 

[Ohen Cepel]

I would leave it be, you have it looking pretty good, or try to coat it yourself. The cost/hassle of sending it out wouldn't be worth it for me.

 

[earlthegoat2]

Shoot it.

 

[stan rose]

If you are looking for project to keep you occupied, you could always fill the pits with JB Weld, sand flush, and Dura Coat it. I did that to a rusted and pitted 1908 Brazilian Mauser Sporter that I got for a song. I think I put $40 total including shipping and prep materials. It came out looking pretty nice for my first one, and a hell of a lot better than original. More importantly it's holding up really well.

 

[RetiredUSNChief]

By the way...I like the fact that you took the time to edit out the S/N in the first picture.

If that was really a concern for you, then you might also consider doing it in the second picture, as well...

 

[rcmodel]

DuraCoat makes a pit filler / primer for 'Special' guns like yours.

I'd go that way instead of JB Weld that never gets 'completely' hard enough for finish sanding in my experience.

http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_supplies.html

rc

 

[Macchina]

By the way...I like the fact that you took the time to edit out the S/N in the first picture.

If that was really a concern for you, then you might also consider doing it in the second picture, as well...

I did it on both pictures (on photo bucket) but it didn't update the internet on the second one. My photobucket has them both edited... So if you want 870 serial numbers, you better act fast!

 

[Spats McGee]

I'd just have it park'd and shoot it.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Rattler can with Rustoleum Hammer Finish for about 5 bucks.

 

[Laphroaig]

Option 1. Looks like a perfect truck gun or a bad weather hunter. Actually, not terribly bad...

Laphroaig

 

[RetiredUSNChief]

I did it on both pictures (on photo bucket) but it didn't update the internet on the second one. My photobucket has them both edited... So if you want 870 serial numbers, you better act fast!

HAH!

Nah...I've got my own serial number on my 870, thank you!

 

[Macchina]

Another option I have is to have it black oxided. We use a nearby coating company often to black oxide parts for the machines I design and it always makes a very nice dark coating.

Does anyone know the difference between black oxide and bluing? I think they may be the same thing. I know they are both oxidation processes, but I don't know how much they differ...

Parts usually cost about $2 a pound to have treated.

 

[Kp321]

What you have done doesn't look bad for a beater. You do need to be sure you have all of the rust out of the bottom of the pits which usually involves bead or grit blasting. Afterwards, it can be parked, cold blued, hot blued, black oxided, or Duracoated. Brownells Oxphoblue over a grit blast is fairly good looking and durable.

 

[AoxoMoxoA]

It's a 870, not a Benelli... Leave it alone. You did good. Now just enjoy it.

If you spend money to refinish the thing, your good deal flew out the window.

 

[1KPerDay]

I like it as is. Custom stippling/texturing.

Spend the money on ammo.

 

[Macchina]

I like what you guys are saying: I'll leave it as-is. I'm not so much concerned about how this thing looks, more about how the cold blue job will hold up to moisture. I do take good care of my guns, but I've definitely have experienced rusting of guns after just a day in the field.

 

[RetiredUSNChief]

With proper cleaning, oiling, and storage rust won't be a problem.

Many an old firarm has little, of any, bluing remaining without having rust issues. You're doing well.

 

[Drail]

Send it to AIP Tactical and have him blast and Parkerize it. There are photos on his website showing before and after pics of 870s that were in much worse shape than yours. They look like new now. He does amazing work and will go through the gun and repair/replace any worn or damaged parts, restake loose shell latches, etc. Cold blue is a complete waste of time. Like others have stated, if it were mine, I would just keep it oiled and shoot the hell out of it. But if you want to spend some money on it, AIP is the best 870 shop around.

 

[Bwana John]

Krylon rattle can paint to local waterfowl hunting surroundings, then hunt it.

Reapply as needed.

 

[4v50 Gary]

To a certain extent that pitting may be draw filed off. Some pits will certainly remain.

It may also be camouflaged by bead blasting and a parkerized finish.

 

[mavracer]

I've used Wheeler's cerama coat on a few firearms it'll cover some of the pitting and do a real good job of protecting it from the elements.