I'm not any type of specialist when it comes to reloading. It's been less than a year for me as a matter of fact. I have the RCBS 505 balance beam. I find it to be accurate, but just too inconvenient. I'm kind of OCD about my reloading and if that beem isn't exactly where I want it, I will go back and forth all day long. I make time to reload, but then again it's taking me too long to weigh my charges. I understand it's not going to be just scoop, take a few grains out, and I'm good. I was debating purchasing a digital scale just so I can save a little time. I was wondering if you guys with experience with both have to say about it. Are the digitals as accurate? Do you really save yourself the headache of going back and forth with the beam?
What type of scale do you use?
- Thread starter blackops
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Redneck with a 40
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I use a Redding beam scale, very nice and very accurate.
JimKirk
Member
RCBS(Ohaus) beam scale and a powder trickle. What I do is drop a slightly under weight charge with my RCBS powder measure and trickle in the rest. My measure is one of the lucky ones that will drop most(not all) powders within a tenth of a grain. What measure are you using?
Jimmy K
Jimmy K
duck911
Member
RCBS 505.
Uniflow drop to a few tenths under, then trickle up.
Accurate as hell, quick easy.......
Uniflow drop to a few tenths under, then trickle up.
Accurate as hell, quick easy.......
jfh
Member.
I do not consider cheaper digital scales to be as accurate because they run on batteries. AFAICT, none of these cheaper scales have voltage-compensation circuits--and that means, as the battery discharges, accuracy will change.
I've owned three different cheaper digitals--and if I buy another one, it would be in the price range where it is a known brand name, can be used on a power converter, and comes with its own branded converter. Otherwise, I use a balance beam.
Jim H.
I've owned three different cheaper digitals--and if I buy another one, it would be in the price range where it is a known brand name, can be used on a power converter, and comes with its own branded converter. Otherwise, I use a balance beam.
Jim H.
I wasn’t referring to “cheap” digital scales, more like a nice one. Anyways, I hadn’t been utilizing my RCBS powder measurer. I was just spooning my charges straight to the scale. I mounted my powder measurer, dialed it in, and it HAS cut my time down. Still I’m wondering if a digital is just as accurate, more time friendly, and reliable.
I have had a RCBS 1500 for a couple of years now and won't be without it. If you do a search here and on other sites you will find many who swear by it. I consider it more accurate than my beam scale and more dependable. For awhile I kept my beam scale and checked the 1500 and if there was ever a difference it was the beam scale that needed to be adjusted.
The 1500 comes with 2 of the 50 gr calibration weights and I calibrate it when I start it everytime. After calibration I put the empty pan on the scale and it always measures 155.0 gr. After rezeroing with the pan on the scale and dispensing a charge, when I lift the pan to funnel the powder into the case, the scale always reads -155.0 gr.
You have to realize that the 1500 is a highly accurate powder thrower. By that I mean that because of the mechanics of the rotating powder dispensing tube, there can be a few too many granules of powder fall off on the last turn. So I set the dispenser to throw a little less and then bump a few granules off to get the exact weight I want.
Calibration
Rezeroing
In this example I want to dispense 60 gr RL22 so I set the dispenser on 59.7 gr
After the 1500 finishes dispensing and beeps, wait 5 seconds and the machine will show the actual amount dispensed, in this case 59.9 gr
It is then a simple matter to dislodge a few granules off the end of the tube to get the exact weight
Emptying is a breeze, just move the scale to the edge of the bench, open the drain and drain into the bottle
Hit the dispense button and it will empty the tube
If the dispenser slows down, just hit the cancel button, empty the pan and then hit the dispense button again. Unlike the powder thrower I used to use, I never spill a granule of powder anymore.
The 1500 will speed up your reloading because you can set your block of cases up and while the 1500 is dispensing the next charge into the pan, you can have your seater set up and seat a bullet in the previously charged case. When you are finished dispensing and charging your cases you are all but finished with the seating also.
The 1500 is also indispensable for weight sorting cases and bullets or just measuring many things that would take way too much time with a beam scale.
Love my RCBS 1500!
The 1500 comes with 2 of the 50 gr calibration weights and I calibrate it when I start it everytime. After calibration I put the empty pan on the scale and it always measures 155.0 gr. After rezeroing with the pan on the scale and dispensing a charge, when I lift the pan to funnel the powder into the case, the scale always reads -155.0 gr.
You have to realize that the 1500 is a highly accurate powder thrower. By that I mean that because of the mechanics of the rotating powder dispensing tube, there can be a few too many granules of powder fall off on the last turn. So I set the dispenser to throw a little less and then bump a few granules off to get the exact weight I want.
Calibration
Rezeroing
In this example I want to dispense 60 gr RL22 so I set the dispenser on 59.7 gr
After the 1500 finishes dispensing and beeps, wait 5 seconds and the machine will show the actual amount dispensed, in this case 59.9 gr
It is then a simple matter to dislodge a few granules off the end of the tube to get the exact weight
Emptying is a breeze, just move the scale to the edge of the bench, open the drain and drain into the bottle
Hit the dispense button and it will empty the tube
If the dispenser slows down, just hit the cancel button, empty the pan and then hit the dispense button again. Unlike the powder thrower I used to use, I never spill a granule of powder anymore.
The 1500 will speed up your reloading because you can set your block of cases up and while the 1500 is dispensing the next charge into the pan, you can have your seater set up and seat a bullet in the previously charged case. When you are finished dispensing and charging your cases you are all but finished with the seating also.
The 1500 is also indispensable for weight sorting cases and bullets or just measuring many things that would take way too much time with a beam scale.
Love my RCBS 1500!
ole farmerbuck
Member
I also use and like the 1500. I've checked my $29 cheapie against it lots of times. Both were always the same. I quit using the cheapie because if i waited a little too long, it would shut off.
qajaq59
Member
I've been using a Lyman M5 balance scale made by Ohaus since the 60s and it is still as good as it was then. However it came with a solid cover and when I'm done using it I put it away so it has never been dropped, banged or otherwise beaten up. You can't leave them out to get dusty and dirty, and expect them to work well.
Perhaps this thought is obvious to long time reloaders which I am not, but I think it also depends on what you are loading? Rifle or pistol?
For my needs the $30 little, dinky MTM DS-1250 is a workable unit for cross checking my turret powder dispenser. Were I loading small quantities of rifle for competition target or specialized hunting use, I can see the real value in the uber-accurate scale/trickler combos.
For my needs the $30 little, dinky MTM DS-1250 is a workable unit for cross checking my turret powder dispenser. Were I loading small quantities of rifle for competition target or specialized hunting use, I can see the real value in the uber-accurate scale/trickler combos.
KSCCHTrainer
Member
PACT Digital Precision Scale and dispenser system with an RCBS 5-0-5 backup. The PACT operates on it's own wall transformer system and doesn't take batteries at all. The scale talks to the dispenser via an infrared communication link and once calibrated is very accurate.
As with all digitals and especially the cheap ones, there is thermal drift as well as voltage drift, so even the precision ones need to warm up a bit before full accuracy. I just keep mine plugged in and on all the time.
Digital scales' are also subject to inaccuracies caused by vibration and movement of the base just like the mechanicals are, so make sure it isn't mounted on the same bench as your press.
As with all digitals and especially the cheap ones, there is thermal drift as well as voltage drift, so even the precision ones need to warm up a bit before full accuracy. I just keep mine plugged in and on all the time.
Digital scales' are also subject to inaccuracies caused by vibration and movement of the base just like the mechanicals are, so make sure it isn't mounted on the same bench as your press.
The Bushmaster
Member
RCBS Powder Pro (20 years old). RCBS 5-0-5 for backup (rarely used)...The 5-0-5 is use mostly to varify the Powder Pro.
Offfhand
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Blackops, if you are truly anal about weighing precision and considering a digital, the top of the line digital scales for handloading is the Ainsworth Accuload, made by Denver Instruments. the ones I use have been in constant use for over 20 years with no problems and remain precise. I expect there are newer versions out now so check the Denver website. The downside of the Ainsworth is that they are quite expensive and not portable, requiring 110V plugin whereas there are other, more portable, battery powered digitals. The RCBS Charge Master 1500 has proven an excellent, suitably accurate, scale/dispenser accessory for the loading bench, being highy praised by those who own and use them, including myself. What is not widely known about the Charger Master is that they can be used as a portable unit. This has made them increasingly popular with precision(Benchrest) shooters who load closeby where they are shooting. They are made portable simply by connecting to a 12V power pack. I have found the Charge Master will run on the pack continously for about three days before needing recharging.
Also, the pack supplies a constant and very uniform power source that actually improves the precision of Charg Master unit. Therefore I use power packs even on my indoor loading benches, continiously plugged to 110V so that they are at full capacity, and the scale unit plugged to it. there are several makes and sizes of such power packs, I chose the smallest model, as shown in attached pics. Along with pic of one of my Denver/Ainsworth scales. Hope you and other handloaders find this information useful.
Shoot well, safely, and often...
Also, the pack supplies a constant and very uniform power source that actually improves the precision of Charg Master unit. Therefore I use power packs even on my indoor loading benches, continiously plugged to 110V so that they are at full capacity, and the scale unit plugged to it. there are several makes and sizes of such power packs, I chose the smallest model, as shown in attached pics. Along with pic of one of my Denver/Ainsworth scales. Hope you and other handloaders find this information useful.
Shoot well, safely, and often...
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floydster
Member
I use my Redding beam scale I bought in 1954.
Encoreman
Member
I use a RCBS 10-10 and have it on a shelf at the correct height and it stays there I do use a trickler and have a cheapo digital that is good for sorting bullets and such, I occasionally test it against the 10-10. Flashhole I don't think I ever saw one like that, I like the shelf for the trickler.
tooltech
Member
I use a vintage Redding #1 balance. it's oil damped, and dead accurate.
This is my concern. The beam is the scale to verify the digital. Simply telling me the beam is always accurate and the digitals can be inconsistent.
I almost want to say this is a positive reflection on the Ainsworth. I’ve been under the impression that digitals can be inconsistent when battery life starts to decrease. Seems a plug in would have a greater chance of remaining consistent. Also I can’t find the Ainsworth, but that 1500 is looking good.
ranger335v
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Lyman M5. Now know as the RCBS 1010.
zxcvbob
Member
I use an old Herter's cast iron beam balance with oil damping. I also have a Lyman D5 (?) but I don't use it because the Herter's is more accurate.
blackops: "....I'm kind of OCD about my reloading and if that beem isn't exactly where I want it, I will go back and forth all day long. I make time to reload, but then again it's taking me too long to weigh my charges...."
This seems like a lot of work to me, for no real benefit unless you are a Benchrest competitor. Here is a way to cure your reloading OCD...lol.
Try your favourite load (that isn't maxed out for your gun) and purposefully load 5 that are .1gr over, 5 that are exactly on, and the last 5 that are .1gr under. Now mix those 15 rounds up and put them in a clear unmarked baggie.
Next load 15 that are perfectly weighed to your favourite load. Place them into their own baggie.
Put both baggies into your range bag, without knowing which is which - this is very important as you don't want to introduce bias.
Now go to the range on a calm day.
Put up two targets, A and B at 100, or 200 if your optics are good enough to quarter the x ring that far out. Mark A on one baggie, and B on the other. You will shoot two 15 shot groups, one group per target.
Alternate from each baggie/target until you have fired all the A ammo onto the A target, and the B on the B. Going back and forth between targets/baggies evens out the influence of barrel temp and your mistakes or fatigue. But still take 2 to 3 minutes cooling time with bolt open between shots. Make each shot count - don't throw a shot to get it over with. Enjoy yourself.
I doubt you will see a real size difference in the groups on each target. That stability in your group size is the real benefit of having developped a load that is in the centre of an accuracy node. Your load should group well on a hot or cold day, or at various altitude - yes the POI will change, but the load will group.
In the future, when you dispense powder and trickle up to a target load and happen to trickle a few extra kernels past what your beam scale says is correct, removing those kernels -or starting over- will not change or improve that round's POI compared to the others that happen to be right on.
This seems like a lot of work to me, for no real benefit unless you are a Benchrest competitor. Here is a way to cure your reloading OCD...lol.
Try your favourite load (that isn't maxed out for your gun) and purposefully load 5 that are .1gr over, 5 that are exactly on, and the last 5 that are .1gr under. Now mix those 15 rounds up and put them in a clear unmarked baggie.
Next load 15 that are perfectly weighed to your favourite load. Place them into their own baggie.
Put both baggies into your range bag, without knowing which is which - this is very important as you don't want to introduce bias.
Now go to the range on a calm day.
Put up two targets, A and B at 100, or 200 if your optics are good enough to quarter the x ring that far out. Mark A on one baggie, and B on the other. You will shoot two 15 shot groups, one group per target.
Alternate from each baggie/target until you have fired all the A ammo onto the A target, and the B on the B. Going back and forth between targets/baggies evens out the influence of barrel temp and your mistakes or fatigue. But still take 2 to 3 minutes cooling time with bolt open between shots. Make each shot count - don't throw a shot to get it over with. Enjoy yourself.
I doubt you will see a real size difference in the groups on each target. That stability in your group size is the real benefit of having developped a load that is in the centre of an accuracy node. Your load should group well on a hot or cold day, or at various altitude - yes the POI will change, but the load will group.
In the future, when you dispense powder and trickle up to a target load and happen to trickle a few extra kernels past what your beam scale says is correct, removing those kernels -or starting over- will not change or improve that round's POI compared to the others that happen to be right on.
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