What will I need?

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MedicMark

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I've been staring down the Traditions 209 Tracker from Bud's for quite some time now. I'm really interested in the world of black powder shooting and am thinking that for $146 I could get introduced to this segment of firearms.

The only problem is, I'm not sure what I'll need to buy to shoot the thing. Once I figure out what I need, I'll be able to cost how much per shot.

Can you tell me what I'll need to pick up when I go grab the gun. I'm sure they can tell me once I get there, but I like to know in advance.
 
What you will need, will depend upon how you intend to load and use your rifle. If you use the 50 grain pellets, instead of loose powder, and load your gun with either 50, 100 or 150 grains with the pellets, then, you won't be needing a powder horn or powder measure. If however, you wish to custom tailor your loads with a precise powder load, say, 85 grains, or 110 grains, then you will need a powder measure to measure your poweder with, preferably one with a swivel funnel attached. You will also need, some sort of a reserve for your bulk powder, like a large powder flask or powder horn, that you pour powder from, into the powder measure. If you are only going to shoot hollow based Minnie Balls, (pronounced "Mihn-Nay"), and not patched round balls, then you will not need a ball starter, a small leather mallet, patches, or a palm saver. Since the Minnie Balls are generally pre-lubed with the lube pressure fitted into the lubrication grooves on the side of the conical bullet, you really don't need to be carrying a tube of bullet lube around with you either. If however you are going to be loading your rifle with round balls, then, you will need to remember that the round balls are patched, and therefore slightly undersized from the barrel just a tad. In your case, your 50 Caliber rifle will be needing either a .490" or a .495" round ball. You will also need a supply of bullet patches, either pre-lubed, or unlubed. If using the un-lubed variety then you will need to lube the patch yourself before you ram the bullet down the barrel and seat it.

The process of loading a patched round ball is basically this. If using an unlubed patch, then take a small amount of bullet lube, and place it on inside edge of the barrel bore. Center and place the pre-cut round bullet patch over the bore of the rifle. Take a round ball, and either place the ball sprue down, or sprue up, whichever you choose, just be consistant, and load your ball the same way every time, so that you will have consistant performance with every shot. Now, take your bullet starter, and using the very short nub, place the short nub over the center of the bullet, and using you small leather mallet, tap the ball down so the half of the ball is lodged in the barrel, and the other have is protruding out of the end of the barrel. With the bullet half in and half out of the bore, take a small, but very sharp knife, known by us as a "patch" knife, and trim off the excess patch material. (An inexpensive pocket knife will do.) Now, using the bullet starter again, using the long end of the bullet starter, in conjunction with the leather mallet, tap the bullet down the barrel the length that the long rod on the bullet starter will allow. Remove the bullet starter, and place your bullet starter and your mallet to the side. Draw out your ramrod from the stock of the rifle, and guide the ramrod down to where it meets the bullet lodged just a few inches down. Take your palm saver, and put it over the end of the ramrod. Using firm, steady pressure, push the bullet down the rest of the way down the barrel. DON'T pound on the bullet with the ramrod, like a jack hammer, just PUSH it down, in a nice, steady, but firm motion. When you feel the bullet seat down onto the powder charge, then give the ramrod one more little push, to seat it firmly and compact the powder down just a tad. Remove the ramrod from the barrel of the rifle. Using a square patch or another round one, lube up the patch just a bit, with bullet lube, and run the patch up and down the barrel a few times, lubing up the barrel just a tad. Remove the ramrod, with the lubing patch, toss the patch, wipe down the ramrod with a rag you WILL be carrying around with you, and re-seat the ramrod into the guns stock.

Obviously, as you can see, this is a bit of a process, and does take some getting used to a bit before you get really proficient and consistant with this. Minnie balls are alot less bothersome in this department, they are pre-lubed, and are precisely sized to the barrel caliber exactly, so you can run the bullet down the barrel with only the rifles ramrod, and not have to use a bullet starter at all.

Now that your rifle has a powder charge in the breech, and a bullet of some type properly loaded and seated on top of that charge, Now you need to press the release on the breech lock of the rifle, break open the barrel, to expose the priming area of the breech. In the case of this rifle, you will need to prime the breech with a standard #209 shot gun primer.

Close the breech, and gather up all your stuff, which we all call our "possibles", because, without all this stuff, it's NOT POSSIBLE to properly load your gun. Nearly all Black Powder (BP) shooters carry a bag around with them, to keep all their possibles crap in, and it is called, guess what??? A Possibles bag !!! (Original aren't we !!! LOL !!!)

Now, depending upon how the gun is set up, and I am not exactly familiar with the particular model you mentioned, you may or may not need to cock the rifle before firing.

Now, after you have acutally fired your gun, and you are standing there in absolute amazement at the billows of smoke, the large orange flame that shot out like a cannon from the barrel, and the very pleasing healthy BOOM from a blast of real gun powder as used by Daniel Boone, and every other fronteersman... Standing there, breathing in that intoxicating smell of spend BP... becoming enamored, steeped, in the romance of it all.... You need to do a bit of "after shot" maintenance on your rifle right away too. You need to swap your just fired barrel with some sort of barrel swabbing solution. You can buy commercial ones, or, you can just mix up a batch of diluted rubbing alcohol mixed with plain water, and kept in either something like a squeeze bottle or an old small sprayer bottle, like a small windex spray bottle. Now, take out a patch, and wet it down so it's good and wet, but not so wet that it's dripping. Run the wetted patch up and down the barrel a few times, then toss the patch. I would recommend doing this after EVERY SINGLE SHOT. Black Powder (The real thing) AND, BP Substitutes, all leave alot of residue in the barrel, despite what manufacturers of BP substitute may claim, your barrel will start to foul in 2 to 5 shots if you don't swab your barrel, even with the substitutes. There are TWO REASONS for swabbing your barrel after every shot, it's NOT JUST to keep the fouling down to manageable, it is ALSO to make sure there are no little embers down in the barrel or breech, smoldering away, that could accidentally ignite your next load of powder... THIS IS IMPORTANT !!!... You don't want a 100 or 150 grain load of powder going off on you while you are trying to seat a bullet down the barrel !!!... Really, NOT FUN !!!

So, the long and the short of it is...

Long List...

Possibles Bag
Powder horn or flask
Powder measure
Bullet pouch or bag
Bullet starter
Small Leather Mallet
A pouch or tin for your #209 primers
A supply of patches, either lubed or un-lubed
a small tube of bullet lube
Palm Saver
Barrel Swabbing Solution
nipple pick
small, sharp patch knife
bullet worm or auger (For removing a bullet if stuck, or if the powder won't fire for one reason or another)
some hand rags to clean your ramrod, wipe down your gun, and keep your hands clean.
A supply of Black Powder, Black Powder substitute, or Powder pellets.
A supply of #209 Shotgun Primers

Optionally, you may wish to opt for some ear plugs or muffs as well.

Well, that's about it really,

Have FUN WITH IT !!!

Sincerely,

ElvinWarrior... aka... David, "EW"

Black Powder

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Bullet Starter

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Bullet Holder (Belt Model)

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Powder Measure, with attached funnel

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Patch Knife

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J-bar has a good suggestion Fadala's book is a good primer. I might add that a lot of our forum members look down on what is called a starter kit. I for one don't. The kits don't have the best, authentic, or efficient things but they do get you shooting. The muzzleloading manufacturers know what we have forgotten and that it is a daunting task to take the first step toward muzzleloading if they can make it easier to get you to try muzzleloading it is to their benefit. The honing of the craft will come after you get bit by the muzzleloading bug.
In summation muzzleloading appeals to a select few who don't mind cleaning their guns asap after a shoot and don't need to burn up boxes of ammo to feel complete.
 
J-Bar, Pancho...

Good adice, on both counts.

And Pancho... I agree with you, Starter kits can be great, if you pick the right ones and don't get ripped off. Dixie has a starter kit that is just great, a Brass Traditions powder Flask, plain round tubular one, a gradutated brass powder measure, in 5g increments that goes from 5g, all the way up to 100g. A capper, some round balls, some lubed patches, some lube in a tube, nipple pick, they even throw in a collapsable "Pocket" cleaning kit with a brass cleaning rod that breaks down into 3 sections, and 4 or 5 diferent tips. The whole thing fits inside this little tube with a cap, that actually will fit into your pocket, and the tube doubles as the handle for the rod. It's a great little kit, wonderful in fact. If you add up all the stuff in the starter kit, which Dixie also carries as seperate items, and compare the prices of what they charge for the individual items, to the price of the starter kit, you very quickly see, you're getting a 50% discount on those items, none of which are the best of the high end, but certainly, nothing wrong with them either.

Sincerely,

ElvinWarrior... aka... David, "EW"
 
E-W it sounds like Dixie got it right. We've seen both ends of the scale, plastic sealed guns with starter kits that look like they should be in the toy dept. instead of the sporting goods.
If a newby is of the temperament to be a muzzleloader what ever he starts with will not be the last thing he buys. I've been at it since 1962 and you won't believe the stuff I've bought, used once and then stashed it away never to be used again I probably have enough stuff to put together 20 "starter kits".
 
ElvinWarrior said:
bullet worm or auger (For removing a bullet if stuck, or if the powder won't fire for one reason or another)

Because the Tracker has a removable breechplug there's not too much need for a bullet puller. Once the breechplug is removed the projectile can be pushed out from the back, often in reloadable condition.
Saboted bullets are popular projectiles to fire through it, and most folks like to mount a scope on their inlines for better accuracy at longer distances.
A scope with some extra eye relief is often recommended to not encounter "scope eye". Shotgun/black powder scopes are designed for that purpose.
Scope mounts may be needed if they're not included with the rifle.
Sometimes the supplied ramrod is too short and/or flexible for ramming tight projectiles. A sturdy range rod or an inexpensive wooden dowel from the hardware store works well as a substitute range rod. For about $1 the thickest wooden dowel that will fit in the bore can be purchased which will provide a lot better leverage when ramming.
A cleaning jag can be helpful for swabbing the barrel with tight patches in between shots. It doesn't necessarily need to be a .50 jag either since thicker or folded patches can be effectively used with a slightly smaller caliber jag. IIRC most ramrods have 10-32 threads.
The last item would be breech plug grease which needs to be applied to the breech plug threads so that it won't be a bear to remove after shooting.
Be sure to clean the entire gun soon after each shooting session or it can begin to rust. All powder residue is capable of absorbing moisture from the air which can cause rust if not thoroughly removed.
 
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round balls? patches?

Its an inline, not a traditional sidelock LOL.

Sabots or conicals will do the best in the rifle due to the 1:28 twist.
 
Frontiergander,

It is my understanding that alot of sabots are very tight fitting and difficult to load as well, so, the loading instructions using the bullet starter and leather mallet are just as accurate for loading those, as with a ball and patch.

But, you are right, an inline is not a sidelock, and I have never owned one, and never will, as I have no interest in them. I want my flint locks to look like something Davy Crockett, or Paul Revere, or any other famous Americans would have been proud to own in their day. I have very little interest in a gun that looks like a modern single shot breach loading shot gun, and is outfitted with a laser scope...

So, I have to admidt, I have some ignorance on the exact mechanical specifics of in-lines.

But in all actuality, I don't see why someone wouldn't fire a patched ball out of an inline, I mean, a bullet is a bullet, a lead ball has certain characteristics, and conicals have others, one does tend to match their load to their expected game does one not? I mean, a 300 grain conical sabot, powered by 150 grains of Pyro Pellets, would definately be overkill on a possum or racoon. But a ball, powered by 80 grains of loose BP would be a better match... Ya think?

Sincerely,

ElvinWarrior... aka... David, "EW"
 
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A mallet is the last thing you use.

While it is true that some sabots are hard to load, there are many sabots out there such as the Harvester Crush Rib sabot that helps aid in loading. Now a loose sabot isnt always going to be the most accurate, so a tight sabot will be in order if thats the case. But never hammer anything down the bore! Something that tight could be the same as an obstruction in the bore and caused the barrel to explode.

A round ball isnt made for todays fast 1:28 twist as its much to fast and will cause the patched round ball to strip out and offer poor accuracy. 1:60 twist or slower is best for the round balls.

80gr and a round ball is over kill or a raccoon / possum LOL.
 
A mallet is a useful loading tool and its use won't cause barrels to rupture.
Ask any chunk gun shooter, they use them.
It's used for tapping projectiles in, and only used to hammer it if necessary to seat the projectile all of the way down on top of the powder. Not properly seating the projectile by hammering it if necessary is what can cause a ruptured or bulged barrel.
If it's loaded into the muzzle, the projectile will come out and not rupture the barrel whether it's hammered in or not.
The tons of force of the exploding powder gases far exceeds any pressure exerted by the mallet to seat a normal projectile, even if it's tight.
Hopefully folks will swab their dirty bore clean before any hammering is neccessary. But once the projectile is started, it's better to tap or hammer it in than to have any doubt about whether it's properly seated or not.
Mark the ramrod to match the depth of the load, and mallet the bullet all of the way down to the powder if that helps to make it any easier to accomplish.
 
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never recommend a mallet. Thats just waaaay to bubba and doesnt fit a hunters possibles bag at all. No company will ever tell you to use a mallet.

A proper fitting projectile never needs such a thing.
 
Like arcticap said, ask any serious chunk gun shooter about using a mallet. That said, it doesn't necessarily mean that because you're using a mallet that you have to pound hell out of the projectile. You're confusing the tool with technique. They can be used gently with good effect.

And yes, one can shoot round balls accurately in a 1:28 ROT barrel. However, it requires light loads - as has already been mentioned, regular loads (on the order of 70-90 grains will likely result in the ball slipping the grooves and failing to achieve stabilization.
 
already tried 60 grains. It was an ok group @ 50 yards but it was just that, a plinking load for fun.

Why you'd buy an inline and then settle for round ball accuracy is completely nuts LOL.
 
When you gently tap, on a patched round ball, using a bullet starter, you only need to tap it lightly,to form the soft lead ball into the rifling grooves. Once you have pushed, the patched ball, down the full length of the long end of the starter, the ball is now pressure sized and conforms to the barrel properly. From that point on, the ramrod that came with the rifle, can now push the formed ball down the rest of the length of the barrel, easily, without alot of effort at all. You're not beating the crap out of the ball, with a 10lb hand sledge, you are coaxing the ball down the barrel, with a leather mallet, easing it down the barrel in stages.

And, it seems to me, that when the American gunsmiths came up with rifling barrels for their Kentucky Long Flints, that, patched round balls were about the only game in town. All of a sudden, riflemen could hit targets out past 200 yards with ease. Much past 300 yards out, and, you can barely see what your aiming at to begin with, out past the end of the barrel, at those distances, a fully grown black bear, standing on its hind legs, would just be a little fly spec, way, way, way out there. At some point, way, way, way out there, you can't even see what your aiming for to begin with, and, any increased accuracy from that point on, is sort of pointless.

Sincerely,

ElvinWarrior... aka... David, "EW"
 
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Sure thats what a short starter is for, not a mallet LOL.

I use a tight fitting patched ball in my kentucky as well but it doesnt need a mallet. Just a homemade short starter.
 
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The ball is not cold formed into the rifling grooves in a single shot muzzleloader. The patch fills the grooves and grips the ball. The ball may be imprinted with the patch weave, but not the rifling.
 
There's a lot of information here fellas. I think I'm going to buy that book and give it a good read and simply fondle as many black powder guns as I can find until I find one that suits me.

Sorry it took so long for me to respond. Been a crazy 6 day work week. Today is my one day off for this week. Now I just need to figure out where I put my charcoal....
 
I've been using a mallet to load my rifles for over 50 years, and I will continue
to do so. I have never read so much mis-information in my life.
 
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Looky what I found !!! Swagged round balls specifically formulated for hunters that MUST USE a patched round ball for hunting, BECAUSE the LAWS require them to do so !!!

So... getting back to the argument, that, "Nobody ever loads an in-line with a patched ball"...

Well, they would if the law says they HAVE TO !!!

Sincerely,

ElvinWarrior... aka... David, "EW"

LB0805.jpg
 
those are no more special than hornady. Actually TC has a deal with hornady to make their ammo.

TC still makes the Hawken and thats what those are for. Or any other traditional rifle made for round balls with the correct twist.

specifically formulated round balls? LOL im not sure who came up with that kind of advertisement scam but its plain ol silly.
 
just as i said, its just marketing. Swagged balls will be more equal in weight and size VS cast balls. Whats that have to do with an inline with a 1:28 twist?

I shot swagged balls for years until they hit $20 per 100. i bought a $20 lee mold and cast basically for free LOL.
 
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