What would be better overall for my needs - Dillon 550 or 650?

[ATLDave]

IDK about the Hornady PTX, but the Lee dies and dispensers work. The biggest issue is that the 650 toolhead is pretty tall/thick, so lots of dies (including most Lee dies) don't have enough threaded height/length to reach far enough down for operation and still have spare threading for a Hornady or Lee lock ring. Dillon makes some very thin plain lock rings that are just plain nuts (as in, hardware store nuts) with no setting-retention mechanism (no set screw, no rubber ring for friction) and those take little enough space to allow Lee dies to work.

But once you get the dies to the right dept, they interact with the case the same way as in any press.

 

[Texas10mm]

Oh, I'm getting excited, but.... I should clarify: On the LNL, it's a PTX setup, if I have a match 9mm load session, let's say 147 gr RMR MW and 3.6gr of N320, and then I need to load .45 match loads, say 200gr LSWC and 4.4gr Clays, I swap out the lowers, and the metering inserts that have already been calibrated for their respective powder throws, and the case bells are all spot on since that's controlled by the lower assembly. If I move the Dillon powder measure, would I need to re-calibrate the powder throw?


In my small minded way I was thinking of going totally blue. Magenta works here? I can run my existing Hornady PTX setups on a 650? Sweet!

If by calibrate you mean adjust the powder throw then yes. The powder die controls the amount of flare. The powder funnel, either Dillon or aftermarket, goes in the powder die and does the flare. You can just buy extra powder bars for the Dillon and swap them out. Or you can put an Easy Dial on the powder bar bolt, spend the small amount of time it takes to calibrate it with your powders and then you can just about dial in the powder throw.

 

[GE-Mini-Gun]

Related some…

I didn’t read through all the threads on this so if it’s been mentioned sorry. I currently have (2) 650’s and have kicked around the idea numerous time of selling one to pick up a 1050…every time I get that “hair” I do some reading up on it AGAIN. I feed two machine guns (9mm and 45) and pistols in those calibers and at one time had an M16, so I probably go through more ammo than you mentioned (15k annually). The general consensus was the 650 is the better option than the 1050, so that leads me to believe the 650 would be better for you as well. Couple of things…if you get the 650 you have to get the case feeder as well, if not your wasting the potential of the press and actually have a more expensive and slower 550. Caliber changes are 10 minutes max, once you have the other tool heads set up. Also I would recommend a small primer press as the 9 and 223 have small primers, you will need to purchase a large primer assembly…hence the reason I have two press (one large and one small primer). Even changing that out only adds maybe another 10 minutes give or take.

 

[CMV]

Thanks. Got the 650 & it's up & running

Your toys sound like a lot more fun than my toys

 

[Whiterook808]

I love a happy ending!

 

[jmorris]

On the LNL, it's a PTX setup, if I have a match 9mm load session, let's say 147 gr RMR MW and 3.6gr of N320, and then I need to load .45 match loads, say 200gr LSWC and 4.4gr Clays, I swap out the lowers, and the metering inserts that have already been calibrated for their respective powder throws, and the case bells are all spot on since that's controlled by the lower assembly. If I move the Dillon powder measure, would I need to re-calibrate the powder throw?

No, that’s the way I do it. Except case bells are not controlled by the lower assembly on either, rather the die adjustments up top, in the LNL’s bushings or the Dillon’s tool head. The “die” stays put as the measure is separate, you just swap the charge bar (aka metering insert), same goes for powder check, with an arbor substitution. Where the “die” is set controls the powder through expander and bell/flare.

 

[lordpaxman]

The “die” stays put as the measure is separate, you just swap the charge bar (aka metering insert), same goes for powder check, with an arbor substitution

Thanks for the info and video. I’ve got a clearer understanding of the parts and pieces. One quick question, do you swap the failsafe rod assembly or are they “close enough”?
A thanks to everyone who has responded and the tolerance of the off topic discussion!

 

[jmorris]

There is a spring on the bottom of the failsafe rod that makes it so it’s not a “stop” so to speak, in that there is a range of adjustment where it will be fine for various setups.