What's the best all around media additive for cleaning and polishing brass?

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For the worst of cases I use vinegar and nothing for a maximum of 15 minutes, then wash, rinse and dry then tumble in corn type media and nothing.

In most matters I apply the ‘leaver policy’ if it works I leaver like I founder.

F. Guffey
 
I used to use Maguire's Gold Class Metal finish, but that is no longer available. Recently I've been using NuFinish scratch remover. Just make sure that whatever you're trying doesn't smell of ammonia.

By the way, if you want a real deal on quality media check out Granger's 20/40 blast media. I bought a 40 lb sack and will probably not have to buy anything else for a LONG time. It is fine enough that it does not block primer pockets.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ECONOLINE-Blast-Media-2MVR5?Pid=search
 
I only reload a few hundred every month or two. I don't own a tumbler. I reload for 380. By mistake, I left a few spent cases in my pants one day and ran them through the wash. They came out sparkling clean. Inside, not really. Outside was beautiful.

So now I just plop them 100 or so into an old sock, pin the sock closed, and throw the socks into the wash with some laundry detergent and a bit of Borax. I choose "extra rinse" on my washer and use cold water. No spin cycle. They come out rather nice looking. I usually run an empty rinse cycle through the washer afterwords to wash out any lead residue.
If I need them REAL clean, I use hot water and Barkeepers Friend (a powder, abrasive oxy cleaner for cleaning stainless bar equipment, found at grocery stores and certainly at beer brewing and restaurant/cleaning shops). I had some from homebrewing. I put some hard to clean cases in a ziploc bag with this stuff and shake... I may need to soak a while and shake again, but they come out nice.

For tumbling, I just use the Lyman "Turbo Charger" reactivator. I can tell it extends the life of the media, but I don't get "new" looking cases anymore, more of a dull gold/brass color. I don't really care about color as long as the case is clean and good to go though.

I have some walnut, but haven't tried it yet. Would you believe that in ten years of reloading, I haven't tried the walnut and have been using and reactivating the same lot of Lyman Green Corn Cob Media?

I'd like to go ultrasonic, I bet that works the absolute best, but they are going to have to come out with a bigger and cheaper one that isn't junk or made by Harbor Freight before I get one.
 
+1 on the Granger's 20/40 blast media. $27 delivered for a 40 pound bag and the particles are small enough not to get stuck in the flash hole.
 
I think I'm going to try the one that Harbor Freight imports and sells, with the 20% coupon it only costs $24.00. If nothing else it'll clean the wife's diamonds.

Instead of using Graingers order from DrillSpot which I believe is a division of Graingers. It'll come drop shipped from Graingers warehouse prepaid right to your door. No gas expense to go get it, and the price right now is slightly cheaper than Grainger.
 
So now I just plop them 100 or so into an old sock, pin the sock closed, and throw the socks into the wash with some laundry detergent and a bit of Borax.

And contaminate your washer with lead that will then end up on all the other things you wash.

Not a great idea.
 
And contaminate your washer with lead that will then end up on all the other things you wash.

Not a great idea.
You obviously didn't read the latter part of my post. Check it again. The whole part about the extra rinse, and the washing out the washer when I'm done part that addresses this. And if I was so afraid of lead poisoning, I'd not be shooting. I don't often put my clean clothes in my mouth and suck on them either so I'm not sure how much transfer there would be of the lead voodoo after washing 200 deprimed cases -
in the wash.
with an extra rinse
then rinsing the washer out again.

Thank you though for being so concerned about my safety. If you wear shoes home from the range, you contaminate your car. If you walk in the house after going to the range, you contaminate your house. It's lead, not ebola. We've covered the lead voodoo stories before.
 
I've been reloading for over 50 years and am far from scared or much bothered about lead, and have been casting for the last 40 years. However I do get tested twice a year for many things encluding heavy metals.

With that said, I'd still refrain from washing my empty brass cases in the cloths washer, even using the rinse cycle afterwards. Why push the envelope or your luck or your families for that matter. Got any youngsters?

But then its your life, and your family.

Wish You Luck!
 
The whole part about the extra rinse, and the washing out the washer when I'm done part that addresses this.

You used a lead test kit to ensure it was lead free?

It is not as simple as just "extra rinse, and the washing out the washer."
 
I bought a couple small bottles of turtle wax liquid at the dollar store 2 yrs ago.every 6 months or so I give the media a squirt of wax, and like that ol cop "Hunter" used to say...."works for me""!!!!
 
Another vote for 20/40 Grainger Blast Media (They have a store 2 miles from where I work) and Nu Finish. Both products are inexpensive, and do the job well.

I have heard several posters mention the stainless pin media, and I have thought about setting up a separate tumbler with that for really grungy brass. It is supposed to clean brass shiny inside and out.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr
 
I've come to prefer 20/40 cob and a couple of teaspoons full of diatomeacous earth. It cleans very well and leaves my cases with a soft matt finish, looking exactly like factory new brass.
 
For cleaning brass I prefer Hot Citric acid, >150F near boiling. It cleans better than any thing I have tried and is fast, < 1 min. But it must be hot for the best results. 3-4 Tbs/gal will clean 2000+ 9mm. After the brass has been dried I also use the 20/40 corncob with NuFinish Car Polish added to the mix. They come out like a mirror. The media stays cleaner longer since the brass is basicly clean before you start the polishing.
 
clean cases

I think you will be disappointed if you think clean shiny casings will improve your accuracy. After doing all the tedious case prep, I like to see mine looking good also.

I use a spray lube on my cases as I usually load 100 at a time. The lube that I use will contaminate primers and powder, so when I am finished, I clean them in a ultrasonic cleaner to get rid of the contaminates. I bought the cleaner from Amazon for around $85.00 and the solution I use is citronox, which also comes from Amazon. The come out very clean after 8 minutes. If you want the ultimate in clean and shiny, then tumble them in corn cob media for a few hours.
 
Flitz is good, but it is expensive. Dillon is good, but it is expensive. Nu Finish is just as good and it is not expensive. Add a little mineral spirits to New Finish and it will beat Flitz.( and still cheaper)
 
jcwit said:
I think I'm going to try the one that Harbor Freight imports and sells, with the 20% coupon it only costs $24.00.
If you are buying HF walnut media, you are in luck as it is on sale for $22.99 for 25 lbs. They come in fine (24 grit) or coarse (12 grit) and I highly recommend the fine media - it's so small that it won't even clog the flash holes. I am using up a box I bought last year and it comes clean without any dust. I find that adding 1 capful of NuFinish every 3 batches does a great job and adding used cut up dryer sheets helps keep the media much cleaner longer. While you are at HF, you can also pick up NuFinish for $7.99.

For me, fine walnut media + NuFinish is so easy, even a cave man could do it ... :eek::what::neener:
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Nothing. Any more than wiping off the case exterior or tumbling in 20/40 grit corn media for 30 minutes, you are simply working on your ego and not making your reloads any better.
Note: Just how many pages do reloading manuals spend discussing case cleaning?
 
Clean brass is easier on the dies.

You clean your brass before you size it? Never heard of that. How do you get the case lube off after sizing? Clean again? Just curious.

Brasso. It won't hurt or weaken your brass. Just another internet rumor. It's the only thing I've used in my corncob media for 20+ years. Think about it..it's called BRASSo...formulated to clean BRASS. Is it the best? Probably not, but it does make my brass shine like a diamond in a goats rectum. Is it the ONLY thing that works, no way. But it does work well.

35W
 
Nothing. Any more than wiping off the case exterior or tumbling in 20/40 grit corn media for 30 minutes, you are simply working on your ego and not making your reloads any better.

Well yes I guess you're right, its my ego. Same reason I once drove a New Corvette, same reason I never leave the house unless I'm shaved and dressed in clean pressed cloths, keeping my hair combed, and looking a little more than just presentable. Keeping my shoes shined. Dressed in a pressed sharp looking Uniform for Military Funeral detail when required. Keeping my firearms well oiled and cases spotless and sharp looking, and the same with all my shooting gear. Keeping my vehicles waxed and sweept out and clean without an inch of mud and sand on the floor.

Yup its all my ego!

Oh, and I might mention PRIDE sorta fits in here also.

Brasso. It won't hurt or weaken your brass. Just another internet rumor. It's the only thing I've used in my corncob media for 20+ years. Think about it..it's called BRASSo...formulated to clean BRASS.

Liquid Brasso WILL weaken your brass as it contains ammonia. Believe it if you wish, don't if you do not wish to, makes no difference to me. However once the ammonia evaporates out of the mis its no longer present and being as that is the case it no longer presents a problem of course. If in fact you are in reality a 4-H reloading instructor I would suggest you do some research regarding ammonia and the degradation of brass.

..it's called BRASSo...formulated to clean BRASS.

Yup, thats what its called, but nowhere does it claim to be used for cleaning brass ammo cases. For your reading pleasure

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brasso

You clean your brass before you size it? Never heard of that. How do you get the case lube off after sizing? Clean again? Just curious.

If handgun brass and not bottlenecked there is no reason to lube the cases if using carbide, however I usually do with a spray of teflon spray using "Blaster" brand, no reason to remove it as its a dry lube.

If rifle cases I generally lube with Unique case lube or Mink Oil, then rinse in white gas, yes its flamable, but I do it outside and its no more dangerous than filling my lawnmower. Then prime and finish loading. If I want really sharp looking rounds I tumble the finished loaded rounds for a final polish.

Hope this helps and clears a few things up!
 
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Liquid Brasso WILL weaken your brass as it contains ammonia. Believe it if you wish, don't if you do not wish to, makes no difference to me. However once the ammonia evaporates out of the mis its no longer present and being as that is the case it no longer presents a problem of course. If in fact you are in reality a 4-H reloading instructor I would suggest you do some research regarding ammonia and the degradation of brass.

Well, then if the internet rumor is true, then I've been shooting weakened brass for 20+ years and am looking forward to shooting weakened brass for another 30-40 more!

35W
 
Don't take it as in internet rumor, do some research and find the truth.

And PLEASE do not pass erroneous and damaging practices on to the youngsters in 4-H, they deserve better than that don't you agree?

You yourself admit to 20 years of polishing brass, I've been reloading since the 50's and polishing brass for that long.

Brasso is fantastic for polishing brass for ones Army uniform tho.

Something else to consider, using a liquid auto polish will not only polish the brass but leave a coating that retards tarnish for years in storage, Brasso does not.

Why not give it a try?
 
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