What's the best all around media additive for cleaning and polishing brass?

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Don't take it as in internet rumor, do some research and find the truth.

I thought 20+ years of using Brasso was research. How much longer should I successfully use it before I reach a conclusion? I'll definitely try something else because my squeeze bottle of Brasso just ran out.

I'm not at all averse to trying something new. I just find it ludicrous for someone with no experience with a product to tell someone will lots of experience with the same product that said product won't work properly.

35W
 
Doesn't mean your conclusion isn't wrong. Science contended for years and years that the world was flat. Guess what?

For your reading enjoyment

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=326030

http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080403212321AAvwKCY

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brass

http://www.abbeyclock.com/brass2.html

This is a start for you to peruse.

Just because one uses a product of any kind does not mean any research was done, it only means that that one product was used.

Why are you not able to accept a possible better idea or way of doing something? Keep an open mind.
 
I thought 20+ years of using Brasso was research.

No, that's called "luck". As jcwit suggested, research the effect of ammonia on brass, brass that is designed to contain thousands of pounds of pressure right in front of your face.

Don
 
I use crushed walnut hull media from the pet store and add a teaspoonful of white car finish polishing compound. It's worked for me for years.
 
Rouge is basically iron oxide (rust) and is mildly abrasive

The powder is messy, if you go that route be prepared. It doesn't take much to cover everything in that annoying dust, so don't add much to start with. Not worth it in my opinion. Plain walnut with some mineral spirits works great, just turn on the tumbler and let it run.
 
Do a MSDS search on Brasso and read them, it does contain Ammonia. But the way some are listed in the MSDS it may not be obvious.

============= Composition/Information on Ingredients =============

Ingred Name: DEODORIZED KEROSENE (60-70%)
CAS:8008-20-6
RTECS #:OA5500000

Ingred Name: DIATOMACEOUS EARTH
Fraction by Wt: 25%

Ingred Name:FATTY ACID
Fraction by Wt: 10.0%

Ingred Name:AMMONIA (SARA III)
CAS:7664-41-7
RTECS #:BO0875000
OSHA PEL:50 PPM
ACGIH TLV:25 PPM/35 STEL; 9293
EPA Rpt Qty:100 LBS
DOT Rpt Qty:100 LBS

Now you know you can make your on out of DE.
 
Guess what? Copper solvents contain ammonia. Guess what else? Everyone I've ever used instructs you to brush the bore with a BRASS brush, which I have done. For some reason, my brass bore brushes didn't dissolve before my eyes.

I know Brasso contains ammonia, I can smell it everytime I squirt it in the tumbler. Unless I run across one of the car polishes first, I'll keep using it.
Over a couple of decades I've lost some brass to split necks, etc. but not one piece to the fatigue described by the fear mongers here.

35W
 
Guess what? Copper solvents contain ammonia. Thats why I use nylon brushes. Here's a good start.

http://www.midwayusa.com/Find?userSearchQuery=nylon+bore+brushes

Unless I run across one of the car polishes first, I'll keep using it.

Thanks for keeping an open mind.

Also I do not consider myself a fear monger, but an informed and knowledgeable reloader of over 50 years. Why did you need to bring name calling into this discussion?

BTW, did you read any of my links?
 
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Liquid auto polish (not wax) works great for me. I also found a great deal on corncob online. I ordered some - if its what its supposed to be, I'll post the link to it next wek.
 
Something else to contemplate is that some of the copper solvents containing ammonia can even harm the steel barrel if exposed to the solvent for a period of time, as in a few hours. Sweets being one of them.
 
The Art and Science of Reloading...

Pride comes before a fall.
I prefer to shoot and NOT worry about if my brass is shiner than someone else's.
Many benchrest shooter's, before today's world of OCD, never even cleaned their cases--just hand-wiped.
They kept each set of cases together, with a notch in the head so each case was always oriented the same in the chamber.
It is OCD or ego/pride to do something that has no effect.
You vacuum your car to slow down and prevent wear and tear. Polishing your brass is NOT the same thing.
I can heartily "approve" of people doing things just because they like to, but I do not want these non-essential activities to be discussed to newbees as being IMPORTANT.
If someone wants to spend $300+ for ultrasonic cleaners and then spend time drying their cases, that is their business--but it doesn't mean that one should imply that it is required or will produce rounds any more accurate than those produced by wiping down the case exterior--which is all that most manuals ever say you need to do.
There are simply too many procedures and toys all aimed at "consistency" with no proof that any of the activities improves anything.
I have never read any papers on any benefit to primer pocket uniforming or flash hole deburring, yet how many have simply done because it "couldn't hurt" and how many actually did any shooting to see if it helped?
The magazines and the industry love to sell new toys, but in any reloading article, except Handloader, have you ever seen them do any testing to prove that their way is of any real benefit?
Then, is there any 'danger' of deburring too much and weakening the case head around the flash hole? Is there any 'danger' that you will uniform a primer pocket and have loose primers?
How many extra steps and processes have you adopted without ever verifying that they are worthwhile?
Thus, all a newbee should be worried about is what is required to load good, accurate ammunition and not what the toy-of-the-day is.
I deprime all my cases while inspecting and sorting when I get back from the range.
I have arthritis in my wrists and wiping each case is time-consuming and is very painful.
I, thus, tumble my deprimed cases in 20:40 corn for 30 minutes.
The exterior is clean and any white residue in the primer pockets is gone.
There has never been any media in the flash hole or the primer pocket.
However, I always tell a newbee that all they need to do is wipe off the case exterior. Then I mention tumbling as being a bit faster. As part of tumbling, I tell them that the media will break down and form fine dust, and that walnut does this much more than corn. This dust needs to be removed as it will pack into the case and decrease the effective case volume. For this, you should put some pieces of paper towel, toilet paper, or used drier fabric-softener sheets and separate media outside and try to get the dust to blow away.
Likewise, after reloading for over 40 years, I can state to my own findings that what little lube remains on case after all the handling during reloading is of importance UNLESS you are loading over 60ksi.
I also found that both myself and those I helped load back in the early '70s were better able to see the powder charge height after dropping the charge and before seating a bullet in each individual case than looking at 50 or more charged rounds all in blocks. People too easily see what they want/expect to see. If you inspect each case as you are placing a bullet on the case, you can not as easily miss one. Also, as you are going directly from the powder measure to the seating die, you can not double charge. You also will not drop and spill powder if something bumps the tray.
The key is that your way and my way may not be the same, but as long as both are safe, they are acceptable.
 
Look Brasso probably COULD have an effect on brass. But let's use our HEADS. I use no more than 1/2 tsp. of it in my vibrator. It has never and likely will never hurt my brass.

I clean brass for two reasons: first is to get residual case lube off it. Second, with certain calibers, is so I can find it in the grass at High Power matches.

35W
 
heydawg said:
Wow. This thread has officially gone downhill.
I'll bring it back up.

Fine walnut media + NuFinish + Berry's tumbler will even polish up 3 sets of rusty dies + 2 shell plates/holders! :eek: - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=586563

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Drillspot's 14/20 corn cob: Note the free delivery...
http://www.drillspot.com/products/499763/econoline_526020g-40_40_lbs_blast_media

Add a shot of NuFinish. Never tried adding a shot of mineral spirits. Might have to try that. Seems like it would evaporate too fast to do anything.

Add the used dryer sheet to collect the dust, carbon, and other filth and toss when it looks ugly enough.

I use a Lee Universal decapper to pop out primers before I polish brass. It doesn't get the primer pockets shiny, but they are more than clean enough.
 
Right Maximumbob54. I've been tooting the horn about 14/20 corn cob when I got my first bag from Grainger 4/5 years ago before I knew about DrillSpot and their free shipping policy.

Yup I've gone thru that much polishing media in the last few years, tumbler runs a bunch, altho not as much as 4/5 years ago. Too many guys reloading.

With the amount of tumbling I do, I think I know more than just a little about it. If I was younger I'd set up for the SS Pin liquid method, but at this stage I'm not going to invest in a complete new set-up.

I would like to try the lizard litter but have yet to find the fine kind. Yes I've been to PetSmart and tried all the big box stores near me, like WalMart & Meijers. Either none of them carry it or I'm missing it somehow, even asked the store employes but I believe most of them have no idea what the establishment they work for carries even in the department they work in.
 
I add what most describe as a "cap full" but really when I add fresh media I just give it a one second squirt. Once it's in there I add more maybe once more again at the media's half life. Then it's toss the media time for some fresh.
 
Bout right. Approx a cap full, teaspoon, something like that. Some have the idea that more is good, that will just gum up your media.

Maximumbob has it right.
 
As a note, if you do ever add too much... You don't have to scrap it. I meant to just give a quick squirt and got more of a um... blort... I was stubborn and allowed it to mix in for a while before I realized I had added too much. I just poured about 2/3's of it into a big freezer bag and set is aside. Mixed in some fresh and it was all good. Then when it was time to replace again, I split the bag in half and so on.
 
CZ57 said:
How much Nu-Finish are you guys adding to the media? Just got some to try it out.
Berry's tumbler has larger capacity than MidwayUSA/FA tumbler. After filling 2/3 full with new walnut media, I usually add 2 capfuls of NuFinish to FA tumbler and 3 capfuls to Berry's and run them until there's no clumping (about 10-15 minutes). I'll even take a screwdriver and stir the vibrating media around to de-clump faster.

Many post that they add a capful of polish with each load and I find this too much with NuFinish. For me, adding a capful of NuFinish every 3 loads does a good job along with cut up used dryer sheets thrown in.

YMMV
 
Thanks guys! I have some well worn media in my Midway tumbler that I think I'll experiment with first and see if I can bring it back to life somewhat. ;)
 
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