Whats the difference? Black vs. Substitute?

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BowerR64

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Well if some one asks me im going to tell them the can.

Black powder is in a square can, substitutes are in a round can

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Today i shot this new Colt .44 i got a few weeks ago. I loaded up swiss first 6 shots then i loded up 3 more times with pyrodex (same stuff walmart sells)

30% MORE SHOTS PER POUND THEN BLACK POWDER!

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A couple of clear differences...

1.) Real BP ignites easier, so if you have a fussy gun you want Real BP

2.) If Real BP gets wet you can just dry it out and it is good to go. If you get Pyrodex wet/ damp it's fertilizer at best.
 
Black Powder is a mechanical mixture of charcoal,sulfur, potassium nitrate. The charcoal and sulfur are the fuels and the nitrate is the oxidizer. It was invented
in China in the 9th century. It was used in the battle of Mohi in 1241. It is
classified as a low grade explosive. It is water soluable and ignites around 400
degrees. Don't know what is in the Subs other then they ignite at about twice the temp.
and they are made with acid. Pyrodex is the closest of the subs to Black. But
it is very corressive.
 
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"Real BP ignites easier, so if you have a fussy gun you want Real BP" and likewise if your gun is just a bit fussy you can have it go bang each time but with inconsistent ignition with subs leading to iffy accuracy. Often a better nipple and hotter cap will fix it. But with cap and ball revolvers you shouldn't ever see any of that, it's a really straight, short ignition path. It's probably more important to tune the load than the specifics of whatever powder you're using.

Flintlocks of course are another matter entirely. Getting one to run with the higher ignition temperature of the substitutes is no fun.
 
Full Zoom!? How far away is the target? Good shooting!

Its only 15 yards, its a 6X zoom on the camera. To be honest im suprised this gun shot this good. I didnt think i could ever get a colt to shoot this good.

Black Powder is a mechanical mixture of charcoal,sulfur, potassium nitrate. The charcoal and sulfur are the fuels and the nitrate is the oxidizer. It was invented
in China in the 9th century. It was used in the battle of Mohi in 1241. It is
classified as a low grade explosive. It is water soluable and ignites around 400
degrees. Don't know what is in the Subs other then they ignite at about twice the temp.
and they are made with acid. Pyrodex is the closest of the subs to Black. But
it is very corressive.

Ah man, So black powder is just a Chinese knock-off?
 
I never had black powder or pyrodex get wet on me but, I know real black powder will burn when it's dried out. I'm kind of curious to see how the substitute would do after being dried.Maybe I'll do a little science test.
 
Black Powder: Historically correct, an item with a long history, pleasingly aromatic to its loyal users, original in its context (black powder gun = black powder), produces lots of flame and smoke with a resounding boom, a venerated staple for the industry, very accurate with easily adjusted loads.

Substitute: Will smoke and send a projectile downrange. Has some mimicking qualities. A facsimile of the original.

Nuff Said.
 
I like Triple 7 and have had excellent results with it. It's easier to clean and fouls less but is more difficult to ignite.

Only the real thing stinks so goooooood!!!!! :D
 
The smell thing's funny to me - I'm sulfur sensitive - not massively but it makes me feel ill if I smell too much of it. I have to be really careful at places like Yellowstone - if I check out the boiling pots I have to do it kind of quick and hold my breath for a moment if the wind goes the wrong way.

There's usually a light consistent breeze where I shoot so it's no big deal when I use real black, but occasionally I'll catch a really good whiff of the stuff and it's a little much.
 
I shoot both but I shoot subs mostly due to availability. As for getting subs wet ,who cares, throw it out, go to your local Walmart and replace it. As for some subs being more corrosive than bp, clean your guns asap and don't sweat it. If your lazy and put off cleaning your firearm you get what you deserve.
 
Ive let mine go a couple days when i use T7 but anything else i clean em soon as i get home.

If i dont tear them all the way down and clean everything i atleast scrub the barrel and the chambers.

When i tear it all down i even remove the nipples and soak them while im cleaning the barrel and the chambers.

I find my guns are more accurate the cleaner they are so if i want to hit anything with em i have to clean em good.
 
ok i get it now.

The colt can run pyrodex pretty well. The remington jams up so bad you almost cant turn the cylinder between shots.

I remember when i first started shooting these a few months ago i had this same issue and everyone said i was crazy. Now that im using the proper cleaning stuff and using all natural grease and lubes im still having this issue with pyrodex.

Pyrodex is the only powder i have this issue with in the remingtons. Its like when it burns it melts and gets thin then when it dries it expands in all the gaps its worked into after the shot.
 
This bit of information may be why I have had problems understanding the hate for Pyrodex. I do not have any revolvers, my muzzle loaders consist of 2 percussion and one flint rifle, one percussion pistol, and a flint pistol. I use Goex black in the flints and usually Pyrodex in the percussion models and I have not experienced any of the problems complained about on this site. Apparently they are in relation to the operation of bp revolvers.
 
Well i have to admit i am using that 2FG RS powder, i think this power is intended for rifles and not revolvers. Ive never used the "P" version wich is the 3FG substitute but is it any different other then its speed? I would need less but i think it would still lock up it would just take a few more shots.

Ive shot 2F and 3F Goex and i didnt notice any difference in how the fouling setup. Ive also shot 2F and 3F T7 and it was the same as well.
 
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