Min
Member
what?
For me, it's a revolver. Preferably a Smith & Wesson.
For me, it's a revolver. Preferably a Smith & Wesson.
When it absolutely has to go bang, you reach for a...
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R3dundantC
Member
not a gavel, thats for sure
KC0QGL
Member
Any one of my guns, all of them are kept in working order.
usp9
Member
A Heckler Koch.
My Berettas are also reliable and dependable.
My Berettas are also reliable and dependable.
Peakbagger46
Member
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A S&W revolver, sig, or glock, in that order.
Bill_G
Member
My Ruger Security Six.
MJZZZ
Member
Cz p-01
I grab my CZ P-01. Mike
I grab my CZ P-01. Mike
pbearperry
Member
Glock 23 .40 S&W.
jjohnson
Member
About Half of 'em
About half of 'em.
I'm a collector, so I have a few that have failed me but I still take 'em to the range to play. Half of them, though, will go bang every time. Those include, in no particular order, any of my S&W revolvers and pistols, Colt revolvers and pistols, even my CA Bulldog. The Glocks, too; any of my Ruger revolvers. The Makarov is absolutely reliable.
Ones that have failed with an honest to God total mechanical "won't work until serviced" problems: my Taurus revolvers
, three Colt clone autos: Spanish & South American
. My Walther P1, my KelTec P40 both came apart with broken parts at the range. My Ruger .22 autos have had failures with some ammo types - and I do mean just ammo problems.
About half of 'em.
I'm a collector, so I have a few that have failed me but I still take 'em to the range to play. Half of them, though, will go bang every time. Those include, in no particular order, any of my S&W revolvers and pistols, Colt revolvers and pistols, even my CA Bulldog. The Glocks, too; any of my Ruger revolvers. The Makarov is absolutely reliable.
Ones that have failed with an honest to God total mechanical "won't work until serviced" problems: my Taurus revolvers
, three Colt clone autos: Spanish & South American. My Walther P1, my KelTec P40 both came apart with broken parts at the range. My Ruger .22 autos have had failures with some ammo types - and I do mean just ammo problems.
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Davionmaximus
Member
XD or Glock
steveracer
Member
N-frame Smith. Pick one.
geronimo509
Member
any of the guns in my signature are 100% reliable. my kimber and my para are my main carry and HD guns.
Hawk
Member
Since I developed an interest in pre-2K S&W revolvers I've learned that some previous owners have been guilty of strain screw molestation and spring fiddling. Further, just like every other screw on S&Ws, the strain screw has been known to unscrew itself.
Loose strain screws aren't an issue: they can be tightened. Filed strain screws in square butt S&Ws provide more of a challenge though someone here was nice enough to steer me to a "Home Depot" alternative. At present I only have one older S&W unfit for service and it's only because if haven't gotten to Home Depot yet.
If it absolutely, positively has to go "bang" I reach for a mutant 1911 dervitive.
MCgunner
Member
Ditto. If it don't work 100%, it gets fixed or sold.
Hawk:
Having spare strain and sideplate screws around is a good idea, but prior to about 1945 (I'll have to look up the date) Smith & Wesson made their own screws using their own threads. Home Depot won't be of much help. You can get the correct screws from Numrich Gunparts Corp. But specify the age of the revolver.
www.e-gunparts.com
As a rule-of-thumb, no one in the firearms industry ever used standard threaded screws.
A drop of clear fingernail polish or BLUE Loctite in the strain screw will insure that it won't back out, but still can be taken out if necessary.
Over the years the Old Fuff has used both revolvers and pistols as bedside weapons, but currently it's a revolver. A revolver does not depend on the cartridges to function, and there are no safetys to fiddle with or remember. In my circumstances I don't expect I will have to conduct an extended gunbattle.
Having spare strain and sideplate screws around is a good idea, but prior to about 1945 (I'll have to look up the date) Smith & Wesson made their own screws using their own threads. Home Depot won't be of much help. You can get the correct screws from Numrich Gunparts Corp. But specify the age of the revolver.
www.e-gunparts.com
As a rule-of-thumb, no one in the firearms industry ever used standard threaded screws.
A drop of clear fingernail polish or BLUE Loctite in the strain screw will insure that it won't back out, but still can be taken out if necessary.
Over the years the Old Fuff has used both revolvers and pistols as bedside weapons, but currently it's a revolver. A revolver does not depend on the cartridges to function, and there are no safetys to fiddle with or remember. In my circumstances I don't expect I will have to conduct an extended gunbattle.
Eightball
Member
If it must go bang, a revolver is a must; because no matter how you slice it, if the round in the tube of a semi-auto is at fault and the primer will not function/is a dud--no matter how many times you pull the trigger, you're screwed; with a revolver, you pull the trigger again, and you have X-number more times to make it work.
CoRoMo
Member
A well tested, relentlessly tried, and flawlessly reliable high capacity semi auto.
Because it might need to go bang more than six times without pause.
Because it might need to go bang more than six times without pause.
Hawk
Member
The light-striking 686 is a relatively recent Lear-Siegler product. The "Home Depot" alternative I had bookmarked is here. I've been resistant to Numrich for no better reason than that, unlike Brownell's, there's not much I can think of to add to the order so I'm not paying 20.00 for a screw. But that particular 686 isn't used for serious purposes so I've been procrastinating.
OTOH, it is my wife's intention to rely on the 325TR hence my obsession with making sure it'll light anything I feed it. So far, so good, but that wasn't something that had me brimming over with confidence from the day she decided she liked the heft.
From a "software" standpoint I simply have more time with the 1911 platform and I'm comfortable with being able to deal with whatever it hands me. While I'm reasonably confident about clearing 1911 malfs I have no confidence in being able to address a revolver that gives me six consecutive "clicks". I hasten to add that this has nothing to do with relative reliabiltiy or objective "revolver vs autoloader" stuff - it's strictly a "what one has practiced" comfort zone thing. Light strikes spook me more than SA malfs - that may change some day.
Took me a while to figure out that "FTF" means "failure to feed" or "failure to fire" depending on whether one is in the autoloader or revolver forum. Took a while longer to determine that many folks in the revolver section exhibit great concern over a failure to feed while discounting almost completely the possiblity of a failure to fire. Those of us with split loyalties aren't too fond of either but one is a lot easier to deal with on the fly - I can get the bottom loader to feed while I can't get a limp revolver to fire.
FunkyD
Member
My xD-9.
t_dickinson
Member
Lead or iron? Lots of options.
I love and trust my Glock 23 but right next to it in my under-the-bed box is a Smith 642 with Crimson Trace. However, if I can't get to either, my bat never runs out of ammo.
P.S. I hope the situation never presents itself but if it does I'd like to think that training in the gym is as important as training at the range. I'm no he-man but I lift 5 days a week so my "guns" are always ready...even if my guns aren't.
I love and trust my Glock 23 but right next to it in my under-the-bed box is a Smith 642 with Crimson Trace. However, if I can't get to either, my bat never runs out of ammo.
P.S. I hope the situation never presents itself but if it does I'd like to think that training in the gym is as important as training at the range. I'm no he-man but I lift 5 days a week so my "guns" are always ready...even if my guns aren't.
Concerning the strain screw issue. I was more worried about you getting messed up trying to install a current strain screw in an older pre-war revolver. Apparently that isn't a concern at the moment. Screws, as well as other parts for more recent S&W revolvers can be obtains from Brownells as well as Smith & Wesson.
In my experience, revolvers that fail to go BANG! either suffer from someone who doesn't know beans substituting lighter or modified springs, cutting the mainspring strain screw, or a case of excessive cylinder end shake. All of these things are easy to detect, and not particularly expensive to correct.
I share your opinion concerning the 1911 pistol. I am not so worried about the pistol then the possibility of getting a bad cartridge or limp-wristing the pistol - one of the downsides that come with older age.
In my experience, revolvers that fail to go BANG! either suffer from someone who doesn't know beans substituting lighter or modified springs, cutting the mainspring strain screw, or a case of excessive cylinder end shake. All of these things are easy to detect, and not particularly expensive to correct.
I share your opinion concerning the 1911 pistol. I am not so worried about the pistol then the possibility of getting a bad cartridge or limp-wristing the pistol - one of the downsides that come with older age.
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