Which Caliber Should I Start With?

[Phydeaux642]

I just ordered a Lee Classic Turret press kit from Kempf with dies for .38/.357, 9mm and .45acp. Is there a caliber that I should start with because it is easier to reload. This may seem like a silly question but I would like to start searching for components and I figure there is no need to cause myself any unnecessary stress by trying to find three different calibers until the panic buying spree slows down a little. I've got a lot of reading to do before I start reloading but I want to be ready to go when I get through the books.

 

[MifflinKid]

Why not pick the one you like to shoot the most?

 

[Phydeaux642]

Why not pick the one you like to shoot the most?

Well, I like shooting everything. I just thought that there may be one less finicky than the others.

 

[MifflinKid]

All you listed are mildly tapered cases. Easy to size. They are all moderate in size. Easy to manipulate. None take much powder. The 9mm and the .357 are much higher pressure rounds so you must always be extra careful about your powders. Other than that, go with your favorite to shoot. After all, that's what it is about.

I hope you will enjoy reloading as much as I do.

 

[Dr.Who]

I started with .38's and then .357's.... Same Dies, just diffent lengths. Then I went into 45ACP.... The one you shoot the most is a good suggestion!

 

[lgbloader]

642,

you listed pistol calibers that are all good.

Try 38 spcl. It is the caliber alot of folks start with. The thing is, if you F-up, no caliber is very forgiving so make sure you go S L O W L Y and pay xtra close attention to detail.

LGB

 

[Randy1911]

I started with 38 Spl and then moved on to 30-30 Win. The roll crimp of the 38's will be easier to start with IMHO.It is easier to tell when you get it right.

 

[Dean Williams]

The .38/.357 is probably the easiest of the cartridges you mention. Unless you are shooting it in an auto, you will never have a feeding failure to try to figure out. Bullet seating is also usually easier to figure because revolver bullets have a crimp groove, and you know that's where the crimp should go.

This is not to say the other calibers you list are hard to load. They're not. Follow your die instructions and ask questions here.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I agree starting with the 38/357 is probably best...

 

[GooseGestapo]

Ditto the .38spl.

Just realize that with most of the faster burning powders, that you can easily triple or quadruple charge the case, with way, way, too much powder.

Many guns have been blown-up and destroyed this way.

3.0gr of Bullseye only takes up a very small space in the .38spl case.

Carefully observe recommend charge weights, (not volumn). Check often for double or triple charges.....

The 9mm can produce some spectacular loads, but, for a beginner can be a bit more difficult to get a good reliable load. Die settings for seating depth, and sizing can be a bit delicate and tricky... And highly "bullet" dependant for proper functioning with a semi-auto pistol.

 

[Walkalong]

.45 or .38 Spl. Both are low pressure, easy rounds to learn on. Very easy to get a good load in either one.

 

[chbrow10]

I would pick the 45. The cases and bullets are large and easy to handle, the loads are all low pressure, and you can start loading them short (1.22") and make them longer until you hit feeding issues.

 

[creophus]

I started with 38spl and fired in a 357 magnum revolver. I figured this would give me the best margin of error.

Another vote for being cautious of overcharging a 38/357 case. I used Titegroup for my first loads and you can BARELY see it inside the case.

 

[Furncliff]

I started with .38 spl. a year ago. It's a good one to start with, and I would recommend plated or jacketed bullets to start. I recently started loading lead and it's been another learning process to get them right. My powder to start loading .38 was Unique. I was able to work up a very accurate load with it but it does not meter well in my Dillon sq. deal. At the moment I'm using Titegroup and W231, MUCH better metering in my press. Over charge has been talked about, early on I had one cartridge with no charge. The primer fired the bullet as far as the gap between the barrel and the cylinder, jamming the cylinder... thankfully I was using a revolver. Not sure how this situation would have worked out in a semi-auto?

P.S. the bullet puller is your fried.

 

[jfrey]

FURNCLIFF, if you have metering problems with your charge bar using Unique, as I did, try taking the bar apart and polishing the inner faces of the bar with JB polishing compound. I put some on a felt polishing tip on my Dremel tool and at low speed I polished the inner surfaces very carefully. It made the powder meter a lot better. I also put a very small amount of gun grease on the threads of the adjusting screw and worked it completely from one end to the other. These 2 things made the metering much more accurate.

 

[bobotech]

Interesting idea, jfrey. I have the same problem as Furncliff with large flake powders in my Dillions so I just use Win231 and dont' worry about it.

But would be nice to be able to larger flake powders if possible.

 

[kestak]

Greetings,

Ditto the 38spl then 357 magnum.

It will be easier for you. Less critical on crimp, OAL and powder measure than with semi-autos.

I made my first round in 357 magnum with Blue dot.

Thank you