Which carry pistol to get?

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Hunter125

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I am looking for a small snub nose, something J frame sized, probably just a .38, Special but I wouldn't be opposed to .357 Mag.
I don't think I want a hammer since it will be a carry gun, and I hate how the concealed hammer guns look, so something along the lines of a 642. But I'm not sure which brand or model to get. I like the SP101, the 642, pretty much all J frames, etc.
Which gun would you all suggest?
 
I actually asked this similar question on here recently.Got a suggestion of data sites.Ballistics kinda things.Definitely a Ruger SP-101 .357mag. Fun too short,knock down power,good looks.But most importantly,easily concealable
 
The Ruger SP101 is heavier at 25.5 oz and a larger revolver than a S&W J frame 642 at 15 oz. Go to a store with both and compare them side to side. If you are considering pocket carry in a pocket holster I think you will choose the S&W for its compactness. If you plan on carrying IWB then the Ruger SP101 is an OK option.

Another option would be the Ruger LCR with its polymer frame. It is only slightly larger and heavier by about 1 oz vrs the 642.
 
Get S&W as it has sliding button cylinder release while Ruger has push in which is a weakness. The only thing that ever happened to S&W is the thing fell off after about 300 shots fired but the gun could still be opened and used while if button on Ruger gets stuck in push in position you end up holding a rock. I did find the latch and screw and put them back on the Model 12.
 
If I was looking for a gun like the one you're describing (and I was at one point), I'd go with the Ruger LCR. It's available in either .38 Special or .357 Mag, so you get to make that decision yourself.

Why? It's ultra lightweight, has an incredible trigger for a DAO revolver, and it's got Ruger's customer service behind it. Also, if you care, there's no internal lock (as opposed to the new J-Frames). My brother owns one and is very pleased with it.

Edit:

I suppose the push release for the cylinder could potentially be an issue at some point, but I've certainly never heard of anyone experiencing that sort of issue. And like I said, if it seems to become a possible problem down the road, I imagine Ruger would make it right. Interesting point to bring up though.
 
Fun too short,knock down power,good looks.
Click to expand...
Can we PLEASE let this myth die?

Another option would be the Ruger LCR with its polymer frame. It is only slightly larger and heavier by about 1 oz vrs the 642.
Click to expand...

The S&W 642 is 15oz.
The LCR .38 is 13.5oz.

(Both weights from their respective websites.)
 
If you don't want a hammer, it can mean you will be able to shoot only double action, and unless highly skilled, will not be able to hit anything except at close range. You may also be expecting a pocket gun, which the SP101 is not. The little guns don't have enough mass to support reasonable shooting of .357 Magnum, so the idea of going with .38 Special is the right one IMO. I have the S&W 637 Gunsmoke.

Remember that guns in these size and caliber categories are only better than none, not ideal protection. But alas, we live in the age when younger people don't dress to conceal.
 
Thanks for the replies. I have a GP100 that I shoot in double action all the time, so I'm aware of what a double action pull is like and am actually not bad with it. But that 6" barrel is a little tough to conceal.
I am interested in the LCR, even though I think it is ugly, I have heard great things about it.
I guess I don't know the difference between the S&W models. How do the 642, 637, 340, 442, etc compare and how do they compare to the LCR and SP 101?
 
The SR-101 negates the realistic choice of pocket carry. The 642 can either be carried IWB or in the pocket giving you more options. I considered the LCR when I got my 438, but the grip was considerably larger, and being rubber, was harder to pull from pocket than my similarly sized Colt Detective Special grip.
 
get 'em all! hahaha... I saw a thread on THR this week about a ruger release being stuck, but I don't think it had much to do with it being a push-in as opposed to a slide forward, if it's that dirty/neglected any mechanical component will get stuck.

I don't like the idea of plastic guns, but that's just me and I have absolutely NO reason to feel this way...

"bobbing" a hammer is pretty easy, and would be a good middle ground, although I don't think it would ever eliminate the possibility of it snagging on your pocket, if wearing a high quality pair of blue jeans I could see an issue of it getting really caught.

If it were me making the decision, I'd go with a Ruger everytime and I would go with the .357 and fire .38 out of it. No reason to limit yourself when one will work fine in the other, but not the other way around.

probably the best advice has already been given though, we can be arm chair quarterbacks all day long, but actually going to a well stocked store and handling all the guns, even (with permission) putting them in whatever carry device you have (pocket, holster, etc) and practicing a few draws would be best. Too bad most stores won't let you shoot a gun first, but at least putting your hands on one would help.

I feel the same as you do about the hammerless revolvers, but for a pocket gun, I really think you're better off without one...
 
The LCR in 38 is awesome...great trigger, easy to carry, more accurate than expected. The 357 LCR is a little more exciting to shoot than I like. Shot some 125 gr in it....not fun.
The SP101 is heavy enough to make real use of the 357, and I personally don't mind the weight. Closing the cylinder reminds me of a vault shutting.
If you want a 357 with a hammer, do yourself a favor and get the SP101. You might need springs and a little smoothing of the action, but you will end up with a slick, strong weapon that will last a lifetime.
 
Another vote here for the Ruger LCR and specifically the KLCR even though it's not as elegant as an S&W. I've been carrying mine in a Renegade Cozy Partner ankle holster as a backup to an XD-S but would feel equally well protected using it as my primary (with an LCR as a backup). I added an XS tritium front sight and can't say enough good things about this revolver. I considered an LCR in .38 Spl because it's 4oz lighter than the KLCR but after shooting various loads over a chronograph I feel that I'd rather have .357 Mag rounds in the cylinder. Golden Saber .357 Mag 125gr bullets out of the 1.875" barrel have similar velocity to GS 124gr 9mm bullets out of a 4" barrel. I'm not saying that .38 Spl +P rounds aren't up to the task, just that I prefer .357 Magnum ballistics if the loads are manageable to shoot.
 
I pocket carry every day. Some days I will carry something a little bigger on my belt, but even then I still pocket carry a .38 J Frame. I don't see the point if 357 in a J-Frame, but the suitability is up to you to decide. S&W has 3 main J frame platforms - the Bodyguard (not to be confused with the Bodyguard they currently sell...that thing is just odd). The Chief's Special, and the Centenial. Most come in steel, aluminum, or scandium. Aluminum is a good balance between economy and weight reduction. The steel is going to absorb recoil better than the other two, the scandium is going to be light and strong, but expensive.

The 3 main aluminum alloy models are 637 Chief's special. Traditional exposed hammer. You can cock and safely uncock just like a regular DA revolver, but extra care must be taken not to snag the hammer when drawing the gun.

The 638 Bodyguard has a shrouded hammer. The frame comes up along both sides of the hammer. A small serrated perch attached to the hammer allows you to cock it for an SA shot, but keeps the hammer largely snag free. It is much trickier to uncock than a traditional hammer and lint or pocket debris could potentially collect in the hammer channel which could, (in a worst case scenario) block the hammer and render the gun inoperable.

The 642 Centenial has a completely enclosed hammer. This is a DA only gun. No SA opportunity, but less chance for something to gum up the works and snag free. In my opinion this is the better choice of the 3, though they are all really well suited to the task.
 
Thanks hAkron, that's the kind.of info I was looking for.
As far as the bobbed hammer, I would really prefer a totally enclosed hammer
I read a book by Mas Ayoob a while back. He said even with a bobbed hammer if you run the risk of cloth getting caught in between if you have to fire from a jacket pocket or something along those lines. I think the enclosed hammer eliminates the most risks.
 
I have both the 642 and the 638. I use to carry the 642 before the wife bought me the 638. I only carry the 638 now and the 642 never leaves the safe. Check out the 638.You can't snag the hammer as it is just a slide knob. I like that I can shoot it SA. Please check out a picture of it. I really think you'll like it.

Good luck!
 
I think you have been given some very good advise so far.

I would comment that if you are considering pocket carry that you seriously consider the weight of the gun. Just for an exercise, take something that weighs about the same as the gun you are thinking about and put it in your pocket first thing in the morning. Keep it in there all day (don't ever remove it). I think you will quickly find that while not necessarily the most friendly when shooting, lighter guns will certainly be the most comfortable to carry.

I love my SP-101 but unless I have either a good OWB or IWB holster that thing is just a boat anchor. A good shooting boat anchor but a boat anchor none the less.

Another serious consideration is your day to day dress. If you often find yourself having to wear a pair of dress slacks, trying to pocket carry anything will print very badly. Jeans or similar thicker fabric wear tends to conceal a little better.

Regarding the hammer... for a CCW I think that a concealed hammer is the way to go (no chance of snagging it on the draw or something getting lodged in the hammer channel). Practice will improve your double action shooting. To be honest, I can't see a situation where I would need my CCW but choose to shoot it single action....but that is just me.

I will tell you that a .357 in any of the smaller 5 shot revolvers is a real handful. If you choose to go that route, practice...practice...practice. The .357 is a very manageable round but in those light packages it is very "snappy" and will not be very much fun to shoot.
 
I consider the Centennial design best for pocket carry. The ability to fire SA should not really be a consideration in a defensive gun. The snag-free and lint-free aspects of the Centennial are also superior for pocket carry.

Current Centennial S&W models are

642 - 15-oz .38sp in silver alloy with stainless cyl
442 - 15-oz .38sp in black alloy with blued steel cyl
640 - 21-oz .357 in stainless steel
340 - 11-oz .357 in scandium

Also 2 rimfire models:
351c - 11-oz .22 magnum in black alloy (7 shots)
43c - 11-oz .22 lr in black alloy (8 shots)

The Ruger LCR family:

15-oz .22 lr polymer/alloy/steel (8 shots)
15-oz .22 magnum polymer/alloy/steel (6 shots)
13.5-oz .38 special polymer/alloy/steel (5 shots)
17-oz .357 polymer/steel/steel (5 shots)
 
If you want a mangum and are willing to belt carry (IWB or OWB), I would go with the SP101 or perhaps the S&W Model 60 in .357 magnum. Both are steel framed guns (although only the SP101 is available with a bobbed hammer), which is better for shooting hot mangum loads but does make them (IMO) too heavy for pants pocket carry.

If you want to pocket carry and are willing to stick with .38spl, then I would go with the S&W 642/442 or the Ruger LCR in .38spl. Both are light weight (alloy and polymer respectivly) revolves well suited for pocket carry and those Smith models are both available w/o the annoying frame lock.
 
If you move to belt carry, even 2.5" L frame, such as a 686 (which can be had with a 7 shot cylinder!) is a very easy to conceal gun with the right holster/belt/grips/cover garment. I have a leather high ride thumb break OWB holster and a thick $30 Amish made leather belt. I carry my 686-6 Plus with either a one size larger t-shirt, or an untucked button up shirt to cover it. I have 'magna' style service grips, and a Tyler T-Grip grip adapter on it.

Even with that setup, I still load up 38 special
+P ammo.
 
Current Centennial S&W models are

642 - 15-oz .38sp in silver alloy with stainless cyl
442 - 15-oz .38sp in black alloy with blued steel cyl
640 - 21-oz .357 in stainless steel
340 - 11-oz .357 in scandium

Also 2 rimfire models:
351c - 11-oz .22 magnum in black alloy (7 shots)
43c - 11-oz .22 lr in black alloy (8 shots)

The Ruger LCR family:

15-oz .22 lr polymer/alloy/steel (8 shots)
15-oz .22 magnum polymer/alloy/steel (6 shots)
13.5-oz .38 special polymer/alloy/steel (5 shots)
17-oz .357 polymer/steel/steel (5 shots)
Click to expand...

Hoppes Love Potion is giving you some good info all in one place!

I have the 642 (the 442 is identical, but with the alloy frame painted black instead of silver and with a carbon steel cylinder in place of the 642's stainless one - a matter of personal preference). The 642 is the biggest thing I could cram into my front pocket, and there is no way that the larger Ruger SP101 could ever ride in my pocket. As it is, the 642 pokes itself out of some of my shallower pockets - but works well in most.

I highly recommend kydex pocket holsters by AHolster, as they are WAAAAAY less bulky than the Desantis ones everyone else raves about. YMMV. Grandfather Oak also produces a nice-looking kydex pocket holster, although I have no experience with them.

With a slim pocket holster the 642 or 442 will disappear in most pants pockets, and its just light enough to be comfortable carrying without being too light to shoot.
 
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