Which carry pistol to get?

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Dr B - There is no gun that meets the requirements for a concealed carry firearm better than a snub nosed revolver.

Determining what those requirements would be is a prerequisite topic of debate. I accept the better than none philosophy, but I would rather dress to conceal and have a gun big enough to stand a good chance of stopping a threat. I consider the Kahr PM40 the absolute minimum. It's a nasty little bugger to shoot but it is small and lightweight. I prefer the P40 as the same gun with a bit longer barrel. My favorite carry mode is cross draw, because shirts drape better in the front for me, and it's an ideal position for vehicle access...same reason patrolmen carry two guns on their belts.
 
Not much to add of any real substance, but what the hey, its the internet.

I am the owner of a 642, an sp101, a 36 and several larger wheelies. I am a past owner of the GP100 and I've rented the 38 LCR for a day at the range to evaluate for purchase, so I have an idea about that, as well.

Since you have a GP100, I'd say the SP is off the table. best thing about the SP is that it eats huge amounts of ammo at the range; the extra weight (which is considerable) makes it a pussy cat for fun shooting.

But you've got that covered. I'd say it's really down to the 642/442 vs the LCR, and probably the 17-oz 357 version. I think the 13-oz .38 is on the edge of too light for my tastes, but lots of folks disagree and love their 38 LCRs (and S&W 340PDs).
Between 642 and LCR, it's down to personal preference. I traded the trigger for what is for me better ergos and easier carry of the 642. But I could have walked with the LCR, too-it's that close. I just have developed a preference for J-frames, having owned one continuously since I was 21 (which was, er, a while ago...).

Lots of good thoughts on these guns here; go try a couple if you can, starting with those guns.

BTW, in case you need a second opinion regarding the mighty and proven 642, google "642 club THR" (or search it here) as well as the same part 2 and 3 and check out how many pages deep those threads go. You could walk away from the computer and go buy a no-lock 642 and be fine.
 
At the time I bought my 642 (December 29, or 30th maybe? 2012) the BNIB price for a 642 was $359.99 (on sale from $369.99). The LCR if I recall was $450 (there about). Not sure if that was the 38 or the 357 model. I'm also not sure about this, but my guess is there are a lot more grip choices for a J-Frame than for an LCR.
 
642 for me for the past 10 years. I like it. It's light in the pocket, it's easy to shoot, completely reliable, and it's accurate. What more could I want in a pocket gun?
 
Thanks guys! Sidheshooter, those were exactly the options I was down to, just from this discussion, 642, 442, or LCR.
So basically the biggest perk of the LCR is the trigger?
And what are the pros/cons of the cylinder differences of the 642 and 442?
Purely on aesthetics I would go with the 442, but if the stainless cylinder is better on the 642, I'd go with that.
 
To me, the 442 looks cooler, but the SS barrel and cylinder are probably going to resist corrosion a lot better in your pocket than blued carbon steel. Also they make he 442 and the 642 with and without that pesky lock. Without the lock is generally preferred by most.
 
And what are the pros/cons of the cylinder differences of the 642 and 442?

A stainless barrel and cylinder are more resistant to corrosion, and that could be important if it's carried in a sweaty pocket (in a pocket holster). That said, I never saw anyone post pics of a 442 with a rusty barrel and cylinder... Not saying it doesn't happen, and I'm not always on forums to see if anyone has made that complaint, but it might be worth researching some more before plunking down $$$ for a 442.

The 442 DOES have a more old-school look. It would look sweet with some old-school wood grips on it. I don't care what anyone says about a firearm just being a tool and looks not mattering... I like things that look pretty, and the 442 strikes a nostalgic chord with me.
 
The J-frames are a little smaller than the LCR, and the wide variety of aftermarket grips allow for a better custom fit if the standard grips don't work well for you.

The LCR is generally thought to have a better trigger and possibly better recoil control via the standard grips. I also think the LCR is a bit more rugged and weather resistant than the J-frames.

For aesthetics, I like the S&Ws. But either choice is a good one for pocket carry.
 
I have both S&W and Ruger and like all of them. At this point I would go with a LCR357 and shoot mostly 38. The extra weight and option to shoot 357 is the reason for the LCR357 over the lighter LCR38. My wife is thinking of changing from a S&W to a LCR357 with laser and XS front sight [I will install the XS].
 
I have the Model 442 without the lock. Overall, it is not a very shootable gun. Frankly, I am thinking of transitioning to the Springfield XDS in 45 ACP because it is so difficult to shoot.

Any S&W J-Frame needs the following mods to become a better shooting gun:

1) Custom stocks that fit your hand properly. The stock rubber grips are awful. The only manufacturer that requires an outline of your hand is Herrett's Stocks. I am contemplating getting a boot cut Jordan Trooper stock to see if that improves my shooting.

2) Pinned front sight. Night sights, or at least GOOD sights with contrast, vastly improve how the gun shoots. The 442 does not have a pinned front sight. The result is a very expensive modification to get one on there. That is crazy money for a front sight.

3) Trigger tuning. This is essential. My gun's double action trigger is awful. APEX makes trigger kits. I'd look at that or have a gunsmith tune it.

4) 357 Magnum caliber. This gives you the ability to shoot very hot 38 Special +P ammo with the occasional boomer for fun on the range. Try some hot 357 Magnum during a low light shoot! You can also use lighter "short barrel" 357 Magnum for enhanced performance without the insane recoil. Why be limited to 38 Special when you may want something heavier at some point?

5) Chamfered charge holes to facilitate loading. Stainless steel cylinders assist here because the gun does not need to be refinished.


If I were going to buy a five shot revolver, I'd look at:

1) Ruger LCR because the front sight is pinned and the trigger is better. I think this is the lightest option, though the 340 may be close. It is a very ugly gun, so you'll need to get past that.

2) S&W 640. It comes with night sights. However, it has THE (storage) LOCK, so you'll need to address that. I'd buy THE PLUG off the S&W forum, remove the parts and put them in the case. If it ever comes up in court, point to the current runs of lockless guns and the fact that it is a storage device, not a safety involved in the firing of the gun.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...57768_757767_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y

3) S&W M&P 340 (No Internal Lock version) or similar.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...57783_757781_757781_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y
 
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Why be limited to 38 Special when you may want something heavier at some point?

The .357 cylinder is longer. It's more gun to carry around just in case you might want to shoot a round that is too hot for the gun and that few if any consider fun to shoot or even reasonable.
 
The magnum cylinder is only slightly longer. I do not see this as an issue at all since the 357 Magnum cartridge is only 1/10" longer. If you need a really small gun, then a J-Frame is too wide and long. It would be better to go with a Ruger LCP or similar.
 
RealGun said:
The .357 cylinder is longer. It's more gun to carry around just in case you might want to shoot a round that is too hot for the gun and that few if any consider fun to shoot or even reasonable.

The KLCR at 17oz isn't much to carry around. I've shot three different Magnum loads in my KLCR including Remington UMC 125gr JSP, Remington Golden Saber 125gr BJHP and Remington Express 110gr SJHP. I'd have no problem shooting a hundred rounds or more of the GS or Express ammunition in a single session. The UMC ... not so much. I have zero regrets choosing the KLCR over an LCR in .38 Spl and would do it again. If I can find a good OWB holster for the KLCR I'm seriously considering selling the XD-S that I bought recently and buying an LCR in .38 Spl for the ankle holster. I'd have no concerns carrying two five-shot revolvers.
 
Get the SP 101, has a lot more "heft" to it than the S&W revolvers, you'll notice this difference when you fire the .357 rounds in it ! I have the SP 101 3" wouldn't want to try the .357 rounds in anything smaller, or lighter, easy to shoot, glad that extra weight is there, shooting .38's in it, very likable, shootable piece.
 
I own a 642 so I can say that it is easy to conceal in my front pocket on cargo style shorts. Mine has the Crimson Trace grips which I like because they tend to make me a bit more accurate at 10 yards than I am without the laser. Because of its light weight it can be a bit snappy with +P ammo though it is by no means uncontrollable. It is reasonably accurate with any ammo I have run through it.

I have nothing negative to say about the gun.
 
If you want a .38, find a used Taurus model 85. Superb J-Frame revolver, and way less money than Ruger or S&W.
 
Here's my answer to the OP's original question.

OK - yes I think it looks funny, but it's perfect.
It has a very shrouded hammer, so I can shoot SA if I want.
Yet the hammer is in itself concealed so as to not catch on clothing.

M38-c.jpg
 
Thanks guys! Sidheshooter, those were exactly the options I was down to, just from this discussion, 642, 442, or LCR.
So basically the biggest perk of the LCR is the trigger?
And what are the pros/cons of the cylinder differences of the 642 and 442?
Purely on aesthetics I would go with the 442, but if the stainless cylinder is better on the 642, I'd go with that.

So, I went to the range yesterday for a j frame outing (and a CCW seminar, what the heck...). I took my 36-1 and my 642.

What a great gun the 642 is. In some ways, it is the zenith of design for it's intended purpose. Check out some Hickock45 vids where he discusses the weight v caliber and the point of diminishing returns (and rings the 80-yard gong with it!). BTW, my original preference would have been the 442, just because I prefer the look of blue, and I find that blue sights work slightly better for me in bright light than stainless. But the no-lock 642 was right there at my LGS when I was looking, so away we went.

Along the lines of sights, tomrkba brings up some good points.

The sights could definitely be better. The LCR--especially the fiber optic version--is light years ahead in this regard. A lot of 642/442 users go with a bit of paint on the front sight (best if only on the top half, per folks like Claude Werner, and similar to the stock 340PD sight).

Grips. The whole point of the j-frame centennial is concealability. I never saw the point of putting bigger grips on a j frame; I'd rather just go with my 2" model 12 airweight K at that point. Everything comes with a cost; just depends if one can live with the price. The price of what is literally a carry-anywhere, NPE-level gun is tiny grips and more effort to get practiced up. The j will never be a Gov't 1911 in either hit potential, or carry ease on the other side of the equation.

Chamfered cylinders: wish everyone did this. But then it would be a $700-800 gun. I have mine smithed in. which leads to trigger...

I have no problem getting the hits with a stock 642 trigger, but then I've been a die-hard wheelie guy since the early 90s, including competition, pins and classwork. That won't stop me from having my guy stone up the interior and go slightly lighter on the return (once internal friction is reduced from the stoning only, and stock main coil only on CCW j frames for me!) Even the S&W performance guys reportedly claim a 25 percent reduction with such work. I could live with that.

At that point, I think I will much prefer the trigger over the LCR trigger, and here is why: I tried the range rental LCR yesterday against my 642; no doubt about it, the LCR is just a lighter pull to make it go off. That's the first thing that anyone who picks both guns up in a shop will notice: LCR=lighter pull.

But if one monitors the reset slowly and carefully, there is another side to the comparison: the S&W reset is smoother out of the box, and can be smithed into glass. That LCR reset was clacking and clanking like a Japanese pachinko machine on the way back, plus, it was hard to tell when it actually reset. A trigger that fails to give feedback against short stroking is in danger of violating the "five for sure" rule, IMHO. I am sure that those that own LCRs will point out that practice makes perfect, but you have to pick your battles. I'd rather battle the j grip/trigger finger placement compromises, since I've already gone a long ways down that road.

Also, the LCR grip really is bigger. This is both a plus and a minus, depending on application and preference.

So far as .357 chambering, I've got no dog in that fight, since I'm only a fan of stout and fierce recoil; I stop at "brutal". Again, I reference Hickock et al. re: point of diminishing returns.

That said, the guy I train with currently is a huge fan of the 340PD. There is a great case to be made for that gun--although, there is always a price. First is cost, but buying guns is fun, so I won't dwell there. The other cost is brutal recoil. The guy I train with also, in addition to being a pin winner rogers-level shot, is a darn big guy, and he hates the recoil. He spoke directly about the 340PD recoil saying that the likelihood of being involved in a shooting using his back-up piece is infinitesimal, but the likelihood of carrying it every day borders on 100 percent.

The 340PD wins for light weight. That thing is 12oz. Think about it: the 340 is as much lighter than the light .38spec LCR variation as the LCR is than the 642!

The 340 also has a half-red front sight in stock form. If money was no object, and I wanted the very definition of carry a lot and shoot a little, I'd go 340PD and an action hone from a pro. This will, of course, take me to within spitting distance of 100 bucks an ounce by the time tax and transport is figured in but, again, everything has a cost.

For about 8 bills, I can have my 642 AND get it tuned, chamfered, and have a small bead or red insert put in. And that's the price I'll end up paying to *legitimately* get away from the LCR's extra bulk, trigger reset and looks. The upside is arguably a superior carry gun by the time the modifications stack up.

For sure, other mileage may vary, but that's how I see it, fresh off of fondling everything under discussion (including that sexy 340PD) yesterday.

I figure all this pretty much goes for the 442 comparison too. Sorry about no relief there.
 
So abo ut how much does all that smithing cost per job? And what are the pros/cons of chamfering the cylinder? I've never heard of that before.
 
Another vote here for a S&W Airweight.

My 637 quickly became my EDC after I bought it. It's reliable, and accurate. And it's far more pleasant to shoot than the interwebs would lead you to believe. I like having a hammer and I practice shooting SA and DA. My father opted for the hammerless model (642) and he likes his alot as well.
 
So abo ut how much does all that smithing cost per job? And what are the pros/cons of chamfering the cylinder? I've never heard of that before.

Well, S&W themselves will do a complete action hone (not just a "trigger job"), overtravel stop and the cylinder holes for 165. You'll pay a decent chunk more for morganti, or C&S or Cunningham, and possibly less for a good local guy to do the same work--but not much less unless they're most likely a hack.

Chamfering the cylinder holes (actually just a slight rounding/breaking of the sharp circular edge--a little bit goes a looooong way) makes it noticeably easier to speedload. Speedloaders and 5-shot .38s are notoriously prone to Murphy moments under pressure. Chamfered chambers and minimal grips (easiest is old-school stock panels with a Tyler T-adaptor, IME) are a darn good idea.

The LCR is reportedly especially prone to backtalk with those fluffy hogues and bare minimum cylinder, or so I am told. I don't own one myself though. I tried my HKS loaders with one when I first rented back in the day, and I remember thinking that it was a bit of a lost cause, but I sort of feel that way about a J with oversize rubber or even, say an SP101 with a pachmayer or hogue on it. It's probably easier with experience.

A Rossi 5-shot .44 special, on the other hand, rocks. 200gr gold dots fly into those enormous chambers. FWIW. Not that I'm trying to hijack the thread. ;)
 
A Rossi 5-shot .44 special, on the other hand, rocks. 200gr gold dots fly into those enormous chambers

You mean like this one? I only shoot 240 grain or above out of it.
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Just to stir the pot,

I suggest that there was never a better 2" .38 spl. made than the Colt Detective Special. Get a well preserved Third Series (shrouded ejector rod, 70's vintage), take care of it and for your lifetime you won't do better. 6 rounds, steel, and after direct side by side range comparison with a J frame-judge for yourself. I'd be surprised if you didn't come away as a Colt snubby convert.

My .02 cents.
 
RealGun said:
The .357 cylinder is longer. It's more gun to carry around just in case you might want to shoot a round that is too hot for the gun and that few if any consider fun to shoot or even reasonable.

I'd rather shoot a .357 Mag based on the results I got with my KLCR shooting commonly available ammunition. These energies are based on the average velocities of each load from my KLCR. The .357 Mag GS load has more energy out of the KLCR than a Barnes .45 Auto 185gr TAC-XPD out of my XD-S.

Rem UMC .357 Mag 125gr JSP UMC > 374 ft-lb (2.0X)
Rem Express .357 Mag 110gr SJHP > 347 ft-lb (1.9X)
Rem Golden Saber .357 Mag 125gr BJHP > 337 ft-lb (1.8X)
Rem Golden Saber .38 Spl +P 125gr BJHP > 197 ft-lb (1.1X)
Rem Express .38 Spl 158gr LRN > 184 ft-lb
 
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