Which current production 1911 is CLOSEST to the ORIGINAL 1911-A1?

[StrikeFire83]

It's a simple question, just wondering what your input is?

Springfield's website claims their GI 5" model to be "nearly identical" to the original 1911-A1.

Does anybody here know what the "nearly" means?

Any input would appreciated.

 

[Black Majik]

Colt WWI Repro?

 

[Technosavant]

"nearly" probably means:
1) SA's 1911s use a smaller firing pin (.38Super/9mm sized) in order to pass the "drop tests" some places impose.
2) I believe (but am not 100% positive) that the GI model has SA's ILS (integrated locking system) in the mainspring housing.

 

[kentucky_smith]

Colt WWI repro would be closest, it's got COLT on the side of it , followed by the RIA mil-spec. No arched msh though.

 

[Mac Attack]

Springfield's is closest to a 1911A1 while the Colt is closest to a real 1911. There is a difference between a 1911A1 and a 1911 you know .

 

[kentucky_smith]

 

[kentucky_smith]

Colt WWI reissue:

WWII reissue:

Quit production on these in 2001.

 

[mattw]

Springfield's GI is the closest unless you want to spend $1000+ for a colt WW2 reproduction that isn't even fully historically accurate. Get the SA GI and spend $100 on a GI widespur hammer, stubby thumb safety, and original brown plastic grips. (good luck finding the thumb safety)

Springfield Armory GI

Colt WW2 Repro

For about a $500 difference I'll take the GI.

 

[Ala Dan]

I've got 2x Springfield Armory WW-II G.I. replica's that I'm prefectly happy
with; one is close too the original parkerized model; while the other is a
stainless steel repo~! Add too that, I also have a Springfield MIL-
SPEC with the parkerized finish to boot.

 

[StrikeFire83]

Hey Ala Dan, do the GI models have that horrid Springfield round keyhole locking thing, someone else called it ILS?

I saw that on a friend's "loaded 9mm" 1911 and didn't like the looks of it.

 

[mattw]

I'm pretty sure they do have the ILS (Internal Locking System). It is an easy fix.. $40 for a new MSH and internals.

 

[MachIVshooter]

The Colt WWI Reproduction is definitely the most accurate and highest quality, but it is spendy. If you want a WWII 1911A1 GI clone, either the RIA or Springer are the way to go. The RIA is a dead wringer with a grip change. The Springfield requires grips and a MSH to be true. Unfortunately, neither the RIA or Springer are made in the USA.

 

[Lone_Gunman]

The Springfield Mil-Spec might look a lot like an original 1911A1 on the outside, but its full of MIM small parts, has an improperly tensioned extractor, has a LOCK in the mainspring housing, and is fully assembled in Brazil (not just forged there, its actually assembled there).

 

[kentucky_smith]

I vote RIA, if money were an object:
You could change out the differences if you wanted to. Me, I don't like the arched housing.

 

[StrikeFire83]

The Springfield Mil-Spec might look a lot like an original 1911A1 on the outside, but its full of MIM small parts, has an improperly tensioned extractor, has a LOCK in the mainspring housing, and is fully assembled in Brazil (not just forged there, its actually assembled there).

1.MIM - What the hell does this mean? I assume that it is a BAD thing. Please explain.

2. LOCK - That means its NOT mechanicaly a 1911-A1, that's a deal breaker for me.

3. Fully Assembled in Brazil - I don't care.

 

[Diamondback6]

Re stub-safeties, try gunshows. I bought mine from a group that usually has a HUGE table of parts at WAC meets in my area.

 

[mdao]

MIM = Metal Injection Molding. Process explaination.

Basically, it's a cheaper way of producing small parts, which is why it's so common in gun making today. It produces weaker parts than traditional machining methods, and many companies have had serious problems with their MIM process (notably, Kimber).

 

[ugaarguy]

1.MIM - What the hell does this mean? I assume that it is a BAD thing. Please explain.

2. LOCK - That means its NOT mechanicaly a 1911-A1, that's a deal breaker for me.

1.MIM - Metal Injection Molded - if done improperly it works fine, if not the parts can be brittle and break. Springfield has good quality control so no problem. I liken it to when Ruger first started using investment cast frames; everyone swore the guns would fall apart - it olny took Ruger a few decades to prove it works when done right. Well MIM works when done right too. Some people just resist change.

2. The lock is in the mainspring housing. You can easily put in a new mainspring housing - yourself - in a matter of minutes - and the 1911 is its own tool box - so you can use parts of the pistol to assemble/disassemble other parts - it would be very easy. It mechanically changes it as much as non GI sights, safties, or hammers do.

 

[StrikeFire83]

^ Thanks for the explanations. If you look at the handguns I own, you can tell that I’m into no-nonsense WEAPONS that function flawlessly. I’m not a “kitchen table” gunsmith nor do I wish to become one. I learn how to field strip, clean, and reassemble my guns in a quick and efficient manner. I do not, however, detail strip my guns or tinker with their inner workings. My rules for buying weapons:

1. Must be 100%-99% reliable for its intended purpose. For my Glock, my Kahr, and now my new XD-45 that means near FLAWLESS operation with both FMJ and Hollow Point defense ammo. For my Ruger, it means absolute 100% reliability as well, with the cylinder never locking up or binding.

For a 1911 the rules are a bit different. Because the weapon is not designed for JHPs, I take them out of the equation. I only expect near 100% reliability from FMJ.

2. Form MUST follow function. If it looks pretty but isn’t reliable it goes on the scrapheap. I don’t have any room in my life for unreliable range or safe queens.

3. Must be affordable and easy to field strip and maintain.

I got rid of my Kimber Custom II because it was UNRELIABLE, even with FMJ and scores of different mags. I love the 1911 pattern, but I sold the Kimber off and bought my XD with the profits. I told myself that if I ever bought a 1911 again, it would be the traditional, 1911-A1 true weapon without all the garbage that seems to muck things up.

The Springfield GI has several things that make it NOT an original style 1911-A1. I think I’ll just have to put my 1911 plans on indefinite hold until I can buy a real period Colt.

 

[Doggieman]

I don't know but I think it's a fabulous looking, no-nonsense gun. The Kimber Raptor Commander is my fave, just the opposite in its flamboyant look. I can like both!

 

[ugaarguy]

Strike Fire, my SA GI has fed everything from ball to JHPs to semi-wadcutters. As far as a detail strip of a 1911, don't be intimidated, it really is easy. This is a great article on that subject http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/tech/toolbox.htm. As far as replacing the mainspring housing goes like I said its very simple so don't worry about that. The SA GIs are getting pretty common, so you shouldn't have a problem finding a nice used one.

 

[Dr. Dickie]

Just one thing to keep in mind. You may want the USGI look, but if you are over 50 I really doubt you will want the USGI sites.
I know I had to replace mine on my Springfield GI (with them on, it was point and shoot).

 

[Hacker15E]

Non 1911A1 spec stuff in the Springfield GI:

- .38 super-sized firing pin and non-spec firing pin spring; USGI parts will not swap due to the non-standard hole size in the slide for the firing pin
- Safety is full length rather than stub (but GI will fit)
- Hammer is too skinny and is serrated vs checkered
- Mag release is serrated vs checkered
- Slide release is serrated vs checkered (although Ithacas and Rem-Rands may have had serrated stops)
- Trigger is serrated (some GIs were serrated, some were checkered)
- Non-authentic wood grips with "US" on the side
- ILS mainspring housing, with associated non-spec spring and cap
- Non-standard size/shape front sight with Springfield proprietary tenon size
- And, of course, the standard stuff the 1911 purists will mention about MIM internal parts

With the exception of the firing pin, everything else can be swapped with an authentic USGI part to gt closer to spec.

Non 1911A1 spec stuff in the Rock Island Fullsize 1911:

- Flat MSH (vs arched) and no lanyard loop on the bottom
- Non-authentic smooth wood grips
- Safety is full length rather than stub (but GI will fit)
- Mid-length serrated trigger (rather than short trigger)
- Non-standard size/shape front sight (more like 1911 vs 1911A1)
- The 1911 purists will note that this is a cast frame and slide (rather than drop-forged) and there are MIM and cast parts

 

[Steelharp]

kentucky_smith, great pic and explanation. Are those yours?

The relief cut on the slides in front of the dust cover also looks different; rounder on the 1911, more straightened out on the A1. When did that change? My old WWI Springer has the rounder cut.

 

[Ala Dan]

Yes, the Springer G.I. replica's have the ILS; but I NEVER use it, so its
not a problem~!