which primers

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broham

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I hope this isn't a lame question. Most reloading manuels show which primer that they use,mag,small pistol and large pistol. Are the differant brands of primers interchangable. Rem and win and cci small pistol primers all the same as well as their mag and different rifle primers. I figured that I would just stick with one brand and buy in bulk. Thanks much.:confused:
 
You can interchange the different brands of the same type, example sm for sm, sm mag for sm mag ect. If you are loading at or near max and make a primer brand change then I would drop the load and work back up. Not all primers are created equal.
Rusty
 
Dimensionally they interchange by size. Small primers even fit as between small rifle and small pistol. I use small rifle in some 9X23 pistol loads frex.

Functionally there are real differences for some purposes and not for others.

FREX there are harder cups - as for instance the CCI made for milspec floating firing pins and softer primers as for instance Federal which is more likely to work in S&W revolvers with the strain screw backed out or otherwise with light hammer strikes (Federal has long used a basic variation on the lead priming mix these days there are also lead free priming mixes).

There are combinations that will take a given load from nowhere near max to overmax with no changes but the primer. There are combinations that will take a given load from entirely satisfactory to entirely unsatisfactory with no pressure issues to speak of either way.

Some developers will go so far as to suggest that for a given load some given primers may be substituted but not others.

Such issues are often discussed in journals like Handloader.

Always a good idea to start with a book load as it appears in the book.
 
sounds good to me. I figured on cutting back on a charge a little if I change a load. Have any of you used wolf primers, some guys at the range have said that they are pretty good.
 
Remember...If you changing to magnum primers in place of standard primers...Drop your powder charge by 10% and work up slowly...Unless you are already at the low end of the chart on powder...Then just go for it...
 
The basic problem with primers is that they are all round and shiny, all look the same, but each lot is a little different from the last. But you can't tell the difference until you load them and shoot them.

As stated before, if you are shooting a maximum load, a primer change may lead to blown primers.

Most of my loads are midrange, and changing primers does not make much of an effect on the safety of my ammunition.

I have seen funnies, like WLP giving my 50 fps more velocity than Federals for the same charge and bullet. So WLP must be more energetic.

I have never had a problem going from WLP or WSP to CCI standard primers.

I did some testing of Wolf large pistol, based on a couple of loads, they are less energetic than WLP.

If you get a good deal on primers, buy in bulk and just keep shooting them. You won’t have to mess with cutting charges because you changed primers.
 
Just as a warning so you know this is not crap.....Magnum primers are definately hotter. I get the same end results on my 7mag whether I use large rifle or large rifle magnum primers. But, I use 2.5gr less powder with the magnum primers. 2.5gr over max could cause the type of BOOM you do not want. Always make sure the type of primers you are using are correct to the recipe, and that you are actually using the right ones!
 
I just started using Wolf primers and haven't had any problems. I haven't used very many yet but have a couple of friends that have shot thousands without any problems. That's why I bought a bunch of them.
Rusty
 
If your pistol loads are not on the edge of max, you can pretty much change primers. No need to go to mag primers with a load that only needs regular primers, so no biggie there anyway. But, if you do, follow The Bushmasters advice.

Rifles are another thing and can be much pickier about primers. Find the one your rifle/load likes and stick with it.
 
I noticed that my "Speer" reloading manual #12 states alot of CCI magnum primers for my loads. My locail gunshop had alot of back orders on CCI products. So I tried "Remington's" replacement. The Manual states a safe range of 55.0-59.0 Grs. I'm shooting best at 57.0 in the middle of the range with the CCI's Mags. So my question is;... Why does Speer like alot of magnum primers? I do understand that the CCI trademark is on the back cover of this manual to say to use CCI's products.

Also note;
270 Winchester, 90 Grain bullet, H380 55.0-59.0 safe charge.
 
H-380 is a "Ball" type powder.

As such, magnum primers are almost always recommended, and not just by Speer.

Ball powder is harder to light then extruded "stick" powder, especially at low temperatures.

rcmodel
 
I am no expert on primers by any means, so this is just material that I have acquired from several sources. As far as pistol primers go, Winchester and CCI primers are much less likely to cause a chain reaction should an accident occur in a primer dispenser. Lee will not guarantee the safety of their press or operator if any other type is used without installing a blast shield on the press to protect the operator. The Winchester and CCI primers are not supposed to cause chain discharges when placed side by side, where Remington and Federal apparently both will. Tests I have read indicate that the delivered energy between brands does exist, but is negligible until consideration of the magnum style primers, which are indeed much more energetic. Call me a fraidy cat, but I am going to stick with WLP or CCI . I like my eyes, and think I will keep them for another 55 years. As an added safety issue - never store primers "stacked" or in a vertical dispenser tube as an accidental discharge will turn into a chain reaction no matter who's primers are used. And ALWAYS remember to wear your safety glasses when handling reloading supplies or actually reloading.
 
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