Which Taper Crimp Die for 40S&W?

[762NATO]

I got the 3-die set from Hornady, and I realized after reading the instructions that the seater die applies a roll crimp, and that Hornady also sells a 4th taper crimp die separately. I recall the Lyman reloading manual stating that it is a good idea to taper crimp straight wall cases, so I emailed Hornady to pose the question to them. They responded to say that their seater die will apply enough crimp to "iron out" the bell from the expander die, and that they strongly recommend using a taper crimp die for consistent chambering in the 40S&W. OK, well if they recommend this, then why don't they just sell a 4-die set instead?

Do any of you using the Hornady 3-die sets find it necessary to apply a taper crimp as well? What's the best taper crimp die for 40S&W?

Reloading for a Sig 226 and 239, if that matters. Thank you.

 

[Walkalong]

I use a Hornady seater for .40 S&W, but use a taper crimp die in a second step to crimp. The crimp ledge in the Hornady seaters seems to be a cross between a taper and a roll crimp. A .45ish degree ledge that makes a nice roll crimp, and will remove the bell if cases are very close to each other in length, but is not nearly forgiving of case length (due to the sharp for a taper crimp ledge) compared to a true taper crimp die.

http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/Bro...y=taper+crimp&refineSearchKeyword=taper+crimp

I like the Redding best, but they will all do the job. Lee is the cheapest.

 

[cfullgraf]

I prefer to crimp my hand gun cases in a separate operation from bullet seating. I have done this for 30 years.

You can set up a roll crimp seating die to just kiss the case and iron out the belling without applying a roll crimp.

Some of the other manufacturers offer seater dies with a taper crimp instead of a roll crimp.

Or you can get a separate crimp die. Set your seater die so that the crimp is not engaged when seating the bullet. Then crimp in the separate step.

I find by taper crimping auto pistol cases instead of using a roll crimp to remove the bell, I get a more uniform crimp because of varying length of cases.

I have Lee (not FCD) and RCBS taper crimp dies. I may have a Hornady or two as I had to purchase some new die sets when I purchased my Hornady progressive. Some of my 1980 vintage dies were too short for the progressive. I see no difference in the performance of any of them.

Hope this helps.

 

[GLOOB]

To me, that's bassakwards. I would never roll crimp while seating, like I do with taper crimping. They should sell the roll crimp as the separate die. Why would you need a roll crimp on a 40SW, anyway?

But I am betting you'll be just fine dialing in your roll crimp die to provide a taper. The Lee die isn't any different. You go too far, and you get a messed up hybrid roll crimp. But I use the seater to crimp all my autopistol rounds. And my 40SW reloading is the smoothest of my calibers. I love it (except for occasionally havng to de-bulge pickup brass). Maybe it's because it's a more modern cartridge with more uniform dimensions across manufacturers. I dunno. But the cases seem more consistent in length and thickness, at least to me.

 

[ranger335v]

Think you will find the FCDs provide the proper crimp for the cartridge it's made for. Rimless cases headspace off the mouth so a taper is the correct crimp, and not much of that.

Only heavy revolver cartridges have much need for a deep roll crimp, few autoloader cartridges have sufficent recoil to need that.

 

[Walkalong]

With some applications you can roll crimp and seat at the same time with no problems. Some you cannot. Same with taper crimping on revolver rounds.

 

[noylj]

One of the best crimp dies is the Lee FCD. Ignoring the carbide insert that will iron out bulges and possibly reduce your lead bullet diameter, the crimping section really works great.
I have considered removing the carbide insert so I don't swage the occasional lead bullet but still have the crimp section.
Right now, I am using the Dillon taper crimp die on my super 1050. However, I use the Hornady sizing and seating dies as them seem to size down further and seat the bullet a bit more accurately.
As far as simple taper crimp dies go, they all seem to work about as well as the other and I would just buy a Lee taper crimp die if I didn't already have one.

 

[rfwobbly]

Personally, I like the plain Jane Lee Taper Crimp Die for about $10. I have one for every auto caliber I shoot.

Right Here Best $10 you ever spent.

 

[762NATO]

Wow, you guys are awesome. Thanks for the responses...this has been very helpful. I swear, once I have a few nuggets of reloading knowledge in my brain, I'll become more than the parasite I am on this board. For now, I'll continue in my lurking (and occasional posting ways).

I'm in the process of cleaning, inspecting and sorting my first batch of brass ever. I imagine this is generally the least favorite step among reloaders.

 

[Hondo 60]

My "least favorite" step is trimming rifle brass. Ugh!

All the rest is very relaxing & rewarding.

You should be able to lightly taper crimp even with a roll crimp die.
Just go very lightly.
But using a dedicated taper crimp die is much more forgiving & not too expensive.

 

[918v]

One of the best crimp dies is the Lee FCD. Ignoring the carbide insert that will iron out bulges and possibly reduce your lead bullet diameter, the crimping section really works great.

I have found the FCD's crimping element poorly finished. It shaves too much brass from the case mouth during crimping. Redding's taper crimp die is well polished inside and crimps without shaving brass.

 

[Walkalong]

You should be able to lightly taper crimp even with a roll crimp die.

If all your cases are trimmed the same, it can be used to do a half decent job of removing the bell, but doesn't taper crimp in the classic, and proper, sense.

But using a dedicated taper crimp die is much more forgiving & not too expensive.

Yep.

 

[Walkalong]

I have found the FCD's crimping element poorly finished. It shaves too much brass from the case mouth during crimping. Redding's taper crimp die is well polished inside and crimps without shaving brass

Exactly why I posted that I prefer the Redding. Polishing the Lee can help. I have had to polish all of my Lee expanders to keep them from dragging and jerking in the press. Same problem, poorly finished.