I haven't tried Mpro7, but have heard lots of good reviews. Isn't Mpro7 water-based? Does this mean you need to follow up afterward with compressed air or a solvent/oil based lube/protectant?
You have to dry it out because MPro7 cleaned it so well, also you have to protect all metal sufaces with some kind of lubricant. I like using compressed air both to distribute the MPro7 and lubricant into wherever you can blow them.
Spray the cleaner, then quick, short bursts of air to push it around but not to dry it. Maybe spray a lttle more and brush around the easy parts.
Wait or do something else for a few minutes.
Blow dry and inspect. Maybe repeat the first step.
Wait or do something else for a few minutes.
Blow dry and inspect look for crud that did'nt get blown out. Blow in the other direction back and forth until no crud remains.
Then apply a line of oil, not too thick, where you can blow the line into the action, chamber, bore so all interior and exterior metal surfaces get oil blown over them. Compressed air gets a nice thin film pretty well everywhere, like an airbrush without the charm. You may want to use patches or mops for bores and cylinders, too.
I added another couple of variations where I use a dry teflon lubricant instead of a fluid oil blown lubricant in the places that get hot. The idea behind this is to avoid the opportunity for crud to be captured by a fluid lube. For me. the HK P7 M8 and M13 gas pistons and cylinders would crud up enough to jam the gun in a couple hundred rounds if there were excess fluid lube present. So I now use a dry teflon and no jams in more than a thousand of rounds with either gun. I gave up finishing the count because i would customarily clean long before a thousand anyway.
I make sure to do the teflon first. Then, oil is blown everywhere else avoiding the tefloned surfaces. If a little oil gets on top of the teflon, think of it as belt and suspenders. This worked well enough for me that I use the method for my wheel guns, other semiautos, and rifles.
HTH