Who has the best gun cleaner for revolvers.?

[sfhogman]

Ed's Red.

 

[Titus]

Comparing Hoppes and Mpro7, I'm curious when its said that both are the same. I've seen this stated previously and began to wonder then.
Hoppes is a product of "Michaels of Oregon", Oregon City, OR and M-Pro7 is a product of "Pantheon Chemical" in Phoenix, Arizona.
Nowhere on the containers does it list the ingredients, except for Hoppes which says it contains kerosene. How is it determined they're the same.?

Do you mean #9? I believe it's the Hoppe's Elite that is the MPro stuff.

 

[Marshall]

If it doesn't say Hoppes, get a rope.

 

[Ala Dan]

Hello All-

Has anyone but me ever tried Shooter's Choice Xtreme Clean
amonia free bore and action cleaner? Um, it good stuff and
really gets all the funk out of bores and actions~!

 

[Fatelvis]

Shooter's Choice

 

[dairycreek]

http://www.eezox.com/

I have used Eezox for five years and IMHO it can't be beat.

 

[Ky Larry]

I've been shooting a lot of lead bullets lately. Hoppes wasn't getting the lead fouling out of the forcing cone. I've been using Pro-Shot 1 Step Gun Cleaner & Lubricant. It seems to gut the lead out and doesn't stink. It says on the bottle that it "Reduces fouling with continued use." We'll see.

 

[orionengnr]

Eezox

Works great, smells great (IMHO)

 

[karlsgunbunker]

I use Poly Dunk-Kit for all my hand guns. This is great stuff and a great time saver.

https://shop.cylinder-slide.com/ccp51/cgi-bin/cp-app.pl?usr=&pg=cat&ref=4

 

[antediluvianist]

A toothbrush and colgate work pretty well. stiff bristle tooth brush.

 

[James T Thomas]

drives the women crazy

I've used Hoppes no.9 since my grandfather taught me to do so, and for me it is very nostalgic.

When I'm headed out for a big date at night I just put a small dab on my wrists and neck, and I'm set to go. I don't even bother with the Aqua Velva any more. Manly and refreshing scent!

 

[jmcc11]

Slip 2000 their Carbon Cutter is great for cylinder faces. It also doesn't smell awful and is non toxic.

http://www.slip2000.com/

 

[[email protected]]

Nothing beats Hoppe's

9 simple ingredients - but they work like nothing else - and the smell brings back memories - it's all good!

 

[slick6]

Question for Bullrock on CLP Bore Cleaner?

BULLROCK:

1)How has CLP Bore Cleaner worked for you? How good does it clean? Do you like using this, so far-or? I'm referring to any type of gun finish, whether blued, stainless, or nickel, here?

2)Although I just recently purchased some CLP BORE CLEANER(Not the standard CLP mix in plastic bottles!)I'm wanting to determine just what effect(If any?)that this bore cleaner, might have on nickel finished guns? Although the label on this CLP BORE CLEANER, indicates that there is nothing in this formula(Like ammonia)that would directly attack the copper, underneath an nickel finish, I'm wondering if the so called, powerful solvent action in this CLP stuff, might have a detrimental effect on nickel guns(Or, if it would prove to be harmless?)? BULLROCK, have you found out anything about this, regarding the usage of this CLP BORE CLEANER, on nickeled guns(Or, else experienced any problems with using this on nickel finishes?)? I'm asking you this, because you are the first person that I have heard of that had tried using this CLP BORE CLEANER!

 

[5Wire]

Pantheon Chemicals

Pantheon offers the most advanced technology for gun care available today, from small handguns to crew-served military weaponry. The complete system is designed to condition firearms so subsequent cleaning time and effort is reduced by up to 80%. Customized formulations of this technology are sold under the M-Pro 7, Hoppes Elite and Smith & Wesson brand names.

Pantheon Chemical

 

[Master Blaster]

I have just about every single one of the gun cleaners mentioned here plus a few others, including Kroil, Balistol, shooters choice, hoppes 9 and copper cleaner, blue wonder, breakfree, remington bore cleaner, sweets, etc.

The absolute best for cleaning in my experience which involves cleaning lead from hardcast bullets out of revolvers and semi autos is:

HOPPES ELITE/ MPRO7.

No Smell, cuts all types of fouling, lead comes out in strips after letting it sit for 15 minutes. Sweets is excellent for copper fouling after using the Hoppes Elite.

I usually follow these with hoppes field cleaner/ lube which is Mpro oil.

Or I use FP-10, and breakfree clp to follow on my AR-15s and ak rifles.

 

[flashman70]

I haven't tried Mpro7, but have heard lots of good reviews. Isn't Mpro7 water-based? Does this mean you need to follow up afterward with compressed air or a solvent/oil based lube/protectant?

I just got a S&W 686 and need to find something to get the carbon off the cylinder face. I noted the earlier post about the slip 2000 product also water based.

Any wisdom that can be imparted to a new revolver owner would be appreciated.

 

[Barr]

To remove lead/carbonization from front of cylinder of revolver:

Use a "Lead Remover" cloth available from MidwayUSA.

Had the tip relayed to me just today.

 

[JoeG52]

Another vote for Ed's Red here.

 

[5Wire]

I haven't tried Mpro7, but have heard lots of good reviews. Isn't Mpro7 water-based? Does this mean you need to follow up afterward with compressed air or a solvent/oil based lube/protectant?

You have to dry it out because MPro7 cleaned it so well, also you have to protect all metal sufaces with some kind of lubricant. I like using compressed air both to distribute the MPro7 and lubricant into wherever you can blow them.

Spray the cleaner, then quick, short bursts of air to push it around but not to dry it. Maybe spray a lttle more and brush around the easy parts.

Wait or do something else for a few minutes.

Blow dry and inspect. Maybe repeat the first step.

Wait or do something else for a few minutes.

Blow dry and inspect look for crud that did'nt get blown out. Blow in the other direction back and forth until no crud remains.

Then apply a line of oil, not too thick, where you can blow the line into the action, chamber, bore so all interior and exterior metal surfaces get oil blown over them. Compressed air gets a nice thin film pretty well everywhere, like an airbrush without the charm. You may want to use patches or mops for bores and cylinders, too.

I added another couple of variations where I use a dry teflon lubricant instead of a fluid oil blown lubricant in the places that get hot. The idea behind this is to avoid the opportunity for crud to be captured by a fluid lube. For me. the HK P7 M8 and M13 gas pistons and cylinders would crud up enough to jam the gun in a couple hundred rounds if there were excess fluid lube present. So I now use a dry teflon and no jams in more than a thousand of rounds with either gun. I gave up finishing the count because i would customarily clean long before a thousand anyway.

I make sure to do the teflon first. Then, oil is blown everywhere else avoiding the tefloned surfaces. If a little oil gets on top of the teflon, think of it as belt and suspenders. This worked well enough for me that I use the method for my wheel guns, other semiautos, and rifles.


HTH

 

[SJshooter]

Let me put in a vote for FP-10 http://autorefrigerants.com/co00023.htm

This stuff is amazing. It is the only product I use to clean my gun, it is a great lube and a great protectant. I have all blue guns and this is the only product I have ever used on them and they all look mint.

 

[BigDog(RE)]

I used to use Hoppes#9, tried everyting else on the market (I'm a sucker for marketing), eventually settled on a combination of Hoppes Elite and an Outers Foul Out lead and copper removing kit. The Foul Out is amazing, you stick it ina clean barrel, and an hour later you remove it and the rod is just coated with lead!

 

[Sport45]

Ed's Red--gets the job done, doesn't cost like Chanel #5. Used the Lewis Lead Remover for a while but wrapping a piece of brass Chore Boy pad around an old brush does a better job with less effort.

Same here.