Who taught you How to Reload?

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mr..plow

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I want to start re-loading for various calibers and have been saving my Brass for years.

But I have a feeling that re-loading is something I want to be shown first hand, due to possible dangers I could cause.

Do any ranges etc.. teach classes you know of?
Ill have to check in my area if any of the ranges do.
 
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This should really be in the re-loading section, and I am sure a moderator will dispatch it there post-haste.
In the meantime:
Re-loaders, being simply a sub-set of your basic gun-nut culture, are generally more that happy to help out someone new to re-loading (except when they catch you trying to pick-up brass they had their eye on:neener: ).
I am certain that if you ask around the range you will have no trouble finding someone there that would be more that happy to go through the basics for you.
First thing you can do is get yourself a couple manuals (as three or four is considered the minimum number and 8-10 is not out-of-line to have around). Richard Lee's Modern re-loading is good. I like the Hornady manual (although it is a bit pricey) and the Sierra. If you have some brand of bullets that you like and plan to use, then get their manual (if they are a major manufacture).
Re-loading is not that difficult and not really dangerous provided you keep you mind on what you are doing when you are doing it.

Good luck

P.S. Nobody taught me, I did like most others, a manual and trial and error.
 
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My brother way back in the 1970's,he showed
me had to be carefull by nuking his model 70
30-06 with a overload.I've been real carefull
and have not even damaged a firearm, but i
have flatten and cratered a few primers.
 
I was taught by Richard Lee. :D And everyone else that has written a book about it. I don't know too many other reloaders in my area, though I'm sure they're there.
 
I was first introduced to reloading by a close friend. We would spend hours at a time reloading 9m.m. cast loads for his HK P9S. I then purchased an RCBS Rock chucker II and a set of .38/.357 RCBS dies in 1985, along with a Lyman reloading manual. The Rock chucker is still my only press. I wish I still had my friend though.
 
The NRA does have intro to reloading courses. Go to the website; there is an easy locator for the nearest NRA classes on each topic.
http://www.nrahq.org/education/training/find.asp

When I started, a friend of mine helped me do some loading on his equipment. It was helpful when I went out to get my own gear that I already had a bit of hands-on experience.

Maybe a THR member in your area could help you get started?
 
I used the Nosler reloading manual.

The edition I had showed the steps in painstaking detail.

Avoid a progressive press and do it slow and one at a time with a good book in front of you and it's a snap.

Turn off the TV and radio when you start.
 
I started reloading with a Lee hand loader back in 1970. There were instructions with the kit, and I taught myself.
When I graduated to a real setup, again it came with instructions. There were many book on the subject, some even with pictures. :rolleyes:
Reloading is not rocket science. Anyone can teach themselves how to load quality cartridges in total safety.
 
Note to moderators...IMO, this should probably stay here. I see this as more of a general question.

I have reloaded off and on for over 40 years. At first I had no one to show me, and actually got by with some stuff that probably would scare me today.

IMO, you have to be pretty stupid or foolish to get into big trouble with most reloading. I don't think it's as dangerous as is commonly thought IF you follow reloading guidelines. If you can follow simple directions, take your time, and don't try to exceed factory velocity by 20%, you'll be fine.

I'd suggest starting with a more "forgiving" (as in lower pressure) round. In pistol, something like 45LC would be excellent. Low pressure, moderate velocity. The biggest factor BY FAR is to stick with mid-range loads. If you do that and exercise any type of caution, you'll be fine.

Non loaders think it's some big voodoo science. Heck, I load for .357 Herrett where I have to expand necks of cases, shorten .200, and fire form. If I showed you that I do, you'd think "there's nothing to it", because it's really pretty simple.

As above, get a couple of good manuals (I like the Lyman, but I'm not sure that it really matters). Read it a couple of times, and it will kinda make sense. Then get a nice, simple press (you can get some screaming deals on e-bay), and read the book while you start to make ammo. All of a sudden it starts to come together and gets simple real quick.

Your biggest friend is the reloading forum here.

HTH
 
Self taught. Read several reloading books, numerous articles. If you can follow instuctions and ask here if you have a question you should do just fine if you are comfortable with mechanical things.
 
Bought the Speer and Nosler manuals and a bunch of RCBS gear. Started with low power loads at the bottom end of the power range (.38/.357 Mag). I messed up a few along the way but I just went slow and double checked everything against the two books.

It's a fun hobby.
 
"ABC's of Reloading", Dillion's 550B video manual, Lyman's Reloading manual, and lots of conversation with experienced reloaders, some who have been loading for 30+ years. Folks that reload are more than willing to show you, but keep in mind you need your OWN system (I don't mean press and components) throughout the process. I load on a 550B and have my own rhythm and check points. Keep focussed on what you are doing. I find reloading to be relaxing and fun to do. Some will say start with a single stage, but I feel the 550B (or comparable other models) are not that complex to get up and running. The Dillion video manual was actually a great help in setting up the press and getting started. My $0.02.
 
nobody

I actually taught myself. I bought a Dillon 550B with a buddy back in Dec . Neither one of us have ever reloaded before or even touched a press. We were able to put the press together and get it setup for .40 and 9 with no problem. We have chronoed and shot several thousand with no issues. If you are going to go it alone take your time and double check everything.
 
HiWay Man, my younger brother and fellow THR'er, taught me. I've slightly modified his "teachings":rolleyes: , but I still call on him for his expertise now and then. I think he will single-handedly revive the "Wildcatter." Not that it ever really died, but he will assure that the practice lives on.:D He also believes that progressive or turret presses are way to sloppy to turn out quality "plinking" ammo.:scrutiny: "You've gotta do 'em one at a time"...I do, I just do it four times as fast as you!:neener:
 
Manuals, trial and error

+1 on this...............the error part used to scare the heck out of me. My first hand loading was with the old Lee handloaders in .38 (no press) about every 10th try a primer would go off in my hand.
 
In 1961 I taught myself to reload 38 Special and 45ACP.
Bought a reloading book and Lyman 310 tool (hand tool).

Reloading isn't brain surgery. It's just a few simple mechanical operations that most any 10 year old can do.
Following a few safety rules is all that's necessary to make reloading totally safe.

Every powder and bullet manufacturer and reloading manual offers information on hundreds of safe loads.

In reloading money buys time.
The same quality of ammo can be reloaded on a slow cheap "C" press as is loaded on a thousand dollar press.
The difference is that loading a box of bullets on a inexpensive press may take over 45 minutes and loading a box of bullets on the high dollar press can be done in under 6 minutes.
For instance, one of my presses is an old Dillon and it makes a completed round every 7 seconds.

A knowledgable reloader can sit down with you and have you reloading good safe ammo in just a couple hours.
 
My gunsmith. I've visited him regularly for the past 4 years and he encouraged me to reload. He pointed out the advantages - cost savings, consistent ammunition performance, improved accuracy - enough times it finally made sense to me. If you shoot 7.62x51 NATO milsurp, you'll know what I mean. Nice thing is, he lets me use his equipment. I stand there and reload, ask him questions, and he reviews my technique and we adjust.
 
Reloading Seminar

Mr plow
I don't know your location but one of the clubs I belong to is doing a reloading seminar on Saturday the 17th at 9:00 am. Anyone can come and join in. As with all our matches they are open to the public. We will be demonstrating different styles of presses and equipment. Were going to have components on hand to load 9mm, 38sp, and 45auto, You can bring you gun and test out your reloads also. We will also have a chrno on site for speed tests.

Phillipsburg Pistol Club
25 Howard Street
Phillipsburg, New Jersey 08865
http://www.phillipsburgpistolclub.com/

Were in Nw NJ right on the PA border. 10 min from rt 78.

Anyone that wants to come send me a PM and I'll add you to the head count.
Oh and by the way, You can bring you gun to the Peoples Rebublik of New Jersey in the trunk of your car.:D
 
Self taught via Lyman manual and the internet.

A really quick rundown..for straight-wall brass cartridges..rifle similiar.

Single stage press..turret and progressive similiar.

Keep in mind this is the way I do it. Other folks do more or less.

* Denotes a die-change. 5 seperate dies used.

Done in "batches". ie. Size all cases, bell all, prime all, etc.


Clean, Sort & Examine brass cases.
Vibratory cleaner w/ dry media AND/OR Liqued cleaner bath.
Eyeballs
and Fingertips.

Resize & Measure cases.*
Pull press-handle to ram case into carbide resizing die.
After that, I check a few with the dial-caliper to record avg. length.

Trim if neccessary.
If a case is too long, insert case into trimmer and, well .. trim it.
Chamfer case mouth with deburring tool if trimmed OR new brass.

Bell/expand cases.*
Pull press-handle to ram case into expander-die.
Only a slight "bell" is needed.

Prime cases.*
Inset primer into priming-die cup.
Pull press-handle to ram priming-die cup with primer into case.
Run finger over case head and FEEL that the primer is a hair below flush.
I check a few with the same dial-caliper for ~0.003" depth.

Measure out powder & charge cases.
Scoop out the correct type of powder, dump into scale pan & measure.
Set funnel atop one of the cases & dump the powder in from the pan.
Repeat on next case.
When finished, visually verify powder level in all charged cases.
I really want a powder-measure to speed things up a bit.

Seat bullets into cases.*
Set bullet atop the case. The slight bell should allow this.
Pull press-handle to ram the case, with bullet atop into seater die.

Crimp.*
Pull press-handle to ram cartridge into crimp-die.

Final examination.
Visually inspect.
Drop finished cartridges into a cartridge gauge AND/OR use dial-calipers to measure overall length.
Store.
Enjoy :D

The above is fairly spartan, but that's how I like it.
Progressive presses are faster (and more $), but for a beginner, I'd say go with the single-stage or turret and move up to the progressive after you have gained some experience.

Note: When I say "ram" I mean that you need to use firm but steady stroke.
Don't go ballistic on it. Pretend you are a machine, develope a rythm.
It's easy :D

Read this too:
http://www.rcbs.com/guide/printsteps.html
I think Sierra has an online reloading guide as well.

Best endeavors!
 
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I have a buddy that reloads at the range where he works. He probably makes several thousand rounds a week and has gotten quite good. The basics are fairly simple, but it does require a certain level of focus and precision to make quality stuff.....don't need any of those +++++++P's getting lose on you.
 
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