Who's changed springs in a GP-100?

[PlayTheAces]

I know some of you have mentioned over time that you've put Wolff or Wilson springs in you GP-100s. What was your experience? Did you replace the hammer spring, trigger return spring, or both? What weight springs did you use? How were the results?

I'm thinking about tinkering with my own GP-100, and am curious how it's worked for those of you who have tried it, and whether you had a dramatic improvement in the action or not.

 

[AV1611]

Changing the GP's springs out is easy. I went with a 10 pound spring for both the trigger return and the hammer spring. It did lighten the double action trigger pull considerably. Didn't do anything for single action, although the single action on mine was already superb.

AV1611 out...

 

[Sisco]

I replaced both, but can't recall which ones I used. I know that with the lighter hammer spring I experienced light strikes when using CCI primers but have had no problems with Winchester primers.

 

[mtnbkr]

I went with the lightest springs to begin with. It wouldn't pop CCI component primers, but would pop every factory loaded primer and every non-CCI component primer. A few years later, I put in a stronger trigger return spring to increase trigger return speed.

Changing springs made a huge difference in the trigger pull.

Chris

 

[Sunray]

When I bought mine, I did the trigger exactly the same way you do a .45 Government model. Polish all the internal parts and clip the mainspring 1/4 turn. Mind you, in those days(GP's were brand new), there were no Wolff springs.
Now, I'd change the springs and polish all the internal parts. Said parts are SS and the polish nicely. Note: It's polish only. Take off tool marks only.

 

[Hornet]

I tried to change the main spring but was getting the light strikes with the CCI primer. The Winchester and Remington factory loads were fine. But because I prefer my reloads I had to go back to stock.

I do have a 10 lbs spring in the trigger return and between this the shooting and dry firing it has become pretty good.

Hornet

 

[Boats]

I have had extremely good results from my homebrew trigger job. First I disassembled all of the trigger group and mirror polished all of the engagement surfaces in the sear and trigger. I even polished out the inside of the trigger return spring tunnel with a Dremel employed very carefully. Then everything was cleaned, degreased, and lubed with militec where it would do any good. Next, I installed the various spring combos from Wolff until I found I had no functioning problems with any of them.

I have had perfect reliability for the past six hundred rounds using a #9 main spring and #8 trigger return spring. My revolver's trigger is so slick, with no grittiness at all, it is now my favorite weapon. If my current combo is ever faulty, I will go with the 10/10 combo that seems to work for most in my anecdotal internet research.

 

[PlayTheAces]

Thanks guys, appreciate the imput.

I was planning a quick trip to the range this morning to test some new sights I put on my 625, so last night I threw a 10 lb. main spring and a 8 lb. trigger return spring in the Ruger to see what would happen.

I scrounged a box of old .38 CCI ammo out of the safe, since that seems to be the hurdle, and took a box of Federal .357 for good measure.

No problema - everything achieved lift-off on the first trigger pull. The action is much improved as well. I don't usually shoot CCI, and the box I had was something somebody had given me, but I think I'll pick up a couple more boxes of the CCI and try again just to be sure.

I also mean to do some polishing, but didn't have time last night. That's something you just don't want to rush with.

That little Ruger is a good shooter! I'm becomming more and more attached to it.

 

[Jim March]

Yes, mirror-polishing the internals is one of those areas where you can trade your own time spent for major returns, with no downsides.

Lots of other things you can do (or have done) involve tradeoffs. Run a slower-twist barrel for cast rounds in your 44, JHP performance suffers.

Be REAL careful with the sear engagement surfaces.

 

[Brad Johnson]

Ditto what others have said above about the lightest (9lb) spring resulting in some light strikes. After some initial frustration I went with the 10lb spring and have had no problems after many thousands of rounds.

The best gain in trigger "feel" will be the reduced power trigger return spring. HOWEVER, be sure to polish all the mating surfaces or you will likely face a problem with trigger reset.

Brad