Why are AR trigger assemblies so expensive?

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The only negative thing I've heard consistently about DPMS is that their triggers are absolute garbage.

The biggest negative I hear about DPMS LPK is that the rollpins aren't the right size, and my personal experience is consistent with that claim.

I have three DPMS triggers (possibly four, as I have an assembled lower with a mystery LPK) and I actually find their stock trigger pull at or slightly better than average, by civilian semiauto USGI trigger standards. That's not to say that I would actually recommend them, there are much better options for the same money (cough Spike's battle trigger cough) not to mention for a little more money.
 
Don't forget, if it's an adjustable, which most are, the travel is limited, and if it's not creeping over 80% of all that wonderful glasslike machining, it's already better. The adjustment screw is more than half of a good trigger.

As for millions of dollars of machinery, no, obviously the financials of American manufacturing aren't well grasped somewhere. Most parts are either cast, MIM, laser, water jet, or CNC turret press punched, whatever the lowest bidder uses for the quantity to be made. That job is just one of hundreds the machine will do that month. Like Smith and Wesson, you could be turning out .38 Special cylinders next to HD transmission mainshafts. Nobody lets a million dollar machine sit idle all year to make a few thousand fancy triggers for some AR range buffs. Not happening.

Triggers are expensive because of the labor and markup, not the parts. Parts are cheap.
 
The best standard trigger I have is the LWRC. It is NiB coated and xray inspected. I think I paid $95 for it. It has a single stage pull of about 6#.

http://www.lwrci.com/p-39-enhanced-fire-control-group-assembly.aspx

Second best would be the Spikes Tactical "Battle Trigger" It is also NiB coated and IIRC cost $60.

http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z...rt=20a&zenid=5cfeaac0974744ab8f8fe34c49f6af81

The best and most versatile trigger IMO (if you are willing to set it up) is the JP Rifles Trigger and Speed Hammer. I think it lists for around $165 (I bought mine several years ago). It can be setup as single stage or two stage with pull weights from 3 1/2# to about 5# (tactical spring set).

IMO these are all fairly priced for what you get.

Geisselle SSA is hard to beat for about $180 if you want a drop in and a two stage trigger.
 
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Tirod said:
Triggers are expensive because of the labor and markup, not the parts. Parts are cheap.
.

+1

Labor and overhead may account for a quarter of the price. After than everyone in the distribution chain gets there fingers in the pie.
 
If one has a CAD 3D Solid Modeling program the design development cost is rather inexpensive. That is assuming you have mechanical knowledge/ability/innovational concepts and understand the functionality of the design. CAD files are simply sent to an off shore producer for prototyping and manufacturing. Marketing use the internet extremely cost effective. Stock your item and deliver using Priority Mail Service. The selling price is what the market place allows.
 
The best stock trigger that's included in a lower parts kit is probably the Stag. It still has a little creep, but not much. Way better than a DPMS.
 
Labor and overhead may account for a quarter of the price. After than everyone in the distribution chain gets there fingers in the pie.

Absolutely. Each step in the distribution chain is typically 50% markup.

From factory to distributor to retailer minimum, thats at least three times it was hit. Do the math. LPK's have more parts and retail for $50, what's even less parts made right the first time cost? After a minutes worth of slipping in springs and pins, plus a twist of the screw to preset? Snap it and call it good, in the bag and move on. I seriously doubt anyone is spending 15 minutes carefully stoning each sear, it was made right the first time. Simple high precision work using a jig and powered polishing stones.

Almost all target triggers are adjustable, the set screw costs 40c at retail and does 80% of the improvement. Just can't say that enough.

Hardening, shmardening, if you use a 2000 grit stone and knock off the high spots, adjust it appropriately with a limiting screw, and leave the springs alone, it's good to go. REAL combat weapons get less, and serve multiple tours with their assigned shooter in REAL combat.

What's the NSN for the issue high quality milspec choice of elite forces trigger? Same Joe Snuffy gets.
 
Just thought I would mention this since we are talking about AR triggers. I had originally purchased two Timney 3# Skeletonized Drop-In Triggers for my AR-15 and a family member's AR.

They both went in just fine. Everything was tight about them and the way they were installed. On mine, though, I would get intermittent extremely light hammer strikes to the point of no ignition. One such time, I had the crosshairs on a coyote in some personal woods. I had my ProEar electronic ear muffs on and I suddenly heard, to my left, panting! I looked over and there was a coyote, a good size one, standing there panting - no more than 18 feet away from me! He wasn't looking at me but must have smelled my scent and just stopped in his tracks). Anyway, I slowly raised the AR with Leupold Scope and aimed so the Barnes 62g Triple Shock bullet would enter between his eyes and run full-length through him. I carefully pulled the trigger and all I got was a very faint-sounding "click".

I was dumbfounded. I was fit to be tied. I am suddenly trying to rechamber another round (trying not to move and trying to still stay quiet). Needless to say, he saw me, turned and pranced through the woods as quiet as could be. I felt like taking the gun and wrapping it around the nearest tree (unloaded, of course)!

I got to doing research and later found out that many people have had problems with the AR-15 Timney Drop-in Trigger doing the exact same thing!

I got on the phone with Timney and, even though the triggers (mine and my relative's) were going on two years old (but hardly ever shot), they looked brand new. Timney offered to take them both back in exchange for two AR-10 Triggers which have a heavier hammer. The originals were 3# and these new ones are 4# and non-skeletonized. I could care less, so long as they work for us!

I guess that coyote was meant to live many more long, healthy days!

I got over it with Timney and still think very highly of them. I do recall that the rear pin holes (.154" comes to mind) did not quite line up perfectly, thus putting just a bit of an angled pressure on the pin where it went through the trigger housing. That would be the shaft that the trigger hammer pivots on and any binding of that particular shaft would reduce the energy of the hammer falling, slowing the hammer-drop just a bit, but enough to cause intermittent misfire!

The pins I used to replace the OEM pins have a small flat screw head on each end and I ground the length of the pins to fit perfectly with the two screws on each tightened. Then, when I was certain all was satisfactory, I put just a bit of Blue Loctite on the four screws for the two pins.

Everything is fine now and I still have high regard for Timney!
 
Does anyone have any experience with the spikes tactical battle trigger. Would the trigger being coated in Nickel Boron make it smoother? This trigger unit is only 60 dollars compared to 150 dollars for other units.

Daniel Baggerly
 
While I don't have one myself, Bill Springfield's trigger work has been criticized by some lately for not holding up well. Don't believe me. Do a search on the M4carbine or Ar15 forums.

The Spike's Battle Trigger is a bargain at $60. It is a better than average quality military style trigger with about a 5.5-6# single stage pull. After a few dozen break-in cycles it is very smooth. I have two of them.
 
While I don't have one myself, Bill Springfield's trigger work has been criticized by some lately for not holding up well. Don't believe me. Do a search on the M4carbine or Ar15 forums.

The Spike's Battle Trigger is a bargain at $60. It is a better than average quality military style trigger with about a 5.5-6# single stage pull. After a few dozen break-in cycles it is very smooth. I have two of them.
The wear problems with Springfield's triggers is not the trigger job but the FCG parts he is sent. There are still some makers that do a poor heat treatment and removing just a few thousandth of metal gets past the surface hardening. The better FCG's well have a surface hardening of .020-.030 or more. You can polish a turd but it's still a turd.

When I do a AR FCG I well treat all parts in Kasenit when finished.

There is no mil-spec AR15 FCG. There are several variations in design, some better than others. Tirod's advise on light honing and a set screw is the best advise for the vast majority of AR shooters.
 
The wear problems with Springfield's triggers is not the trigger job but the FCG parts he is sent.

Given the number of complaints I have head about him recently I am not sure this is accurate. From what I hear he is screwing up everything from ARs to HKs.
 
Given the number of complaints I have head about him recently I am not sure this is accurate. From what I hear he is screwing up everything from ARs to HKs.
I've seen the recent reviews. Not sure what's going on. Some people are reporting issues, while others give rave reviews.

I bought a Geissele match trigger. I don't regret it, but $279 is hard to stomach for multiple ARs. Even though I really like the trigger, I'll be exploring other options for my other guns.
 
For the same reason EVERYTHING in America is over-priced -- Donald Trump syndrome.

A guy makes a part and thinks he's entitles to travel by limousine and you pay for it based on fraud marketing strategies designed to mislead you into believing you have something that took voodoo and the voice of God to create...
 
Add salt to that wound, a .40 cent screw does most of the work in a $150 trigger. If it's a duty or hunting rifle, don't go low spring pressure, just install the screw.

That is a fantastic way to lose a game animal or get yourself killed.

Overtravel screws will work their way out and will tie up the gun. there is no may about it.
 
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