Why do they not get a knife person to check stuff like this

Status
Not open for further replies.
hso

hso

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jan 3, 2003
Messages
66,036
Location
0 hrs east of TN
NIGHTLORD40K said:
Haha, why does Hollywood never have an actual "gun person" on set for an action or war movie? Heck, sci-fi franchise series never seem to have a nerd/fan anywhere around to point out continuity errors, lol!
Click to expand...

They do. But typically the advice of the firearm technical consultant or armorer gets ignored in order for something to "look cool." Technical errors make it to screen based on director/producer wants.

I cringe on that article reading that 440C is better than 1095. The only thing better about 440C is it is cheap. If I grab a knife that I don't want to worry about it getting lost, stolen, or broken I will grab one of my 440 knives. Ones I care about are 1095 or better.
 
That "article" was truly frightening with the conclusions the author made. 1095 is one of the classic durable knife steels that can be used for just about anything, and 440C is a good inexpensive stainless steel for most people. I personally prefer a stainless knife as I spend more time in saltwater and other corrosive areas. I do have a few carbon steel knives and have no issue with them as long as I can wipe them down after use.

I read things like that just for the laughs, and work to correct any mistakes people bring up around me (using diplomacy and grace). Just because you get put in print doesn't mean you know what you are writing about.
 
The Spyderco Chicago they listed as 440C switched over some time ago to BD1 and has switched yet again to BD1N. I know as I own two of them. Actually three, but the third was a premium run with carbon fiber and S30V that’s long discontinued.
 
Also, VG10 isn’t a premium steal these days. It’s a good steel, but there are surely ten or more steels that have long surpassed it, depending on what attributes you want.
 
hso said:
You'd think they'd get someone that knows something about knives to write copy on "Beginners Guide To Knife Steel". "lube" when "oil" is meant. "forge" when ... I have no idea what he thought he was communicating. Links to crap knives that were unsafe due to QC+design failures. Referring to 1095 as "brittle". Gaaaaaaa

https://everydaycarry.com/edc-knife...il&utm_term=0_7810646d0c-6a65f8957a-239585165
Click to expand...

“Brittle” 1095 is tougher than “premium” VG10. This fella is missing the mark just a wee bit, eh? I really like looking at knife steel ratings but they all have a certain series of assumptions or factors that make it hard to do a direct comparison. I like the following list because Dr. Larrin lays out the entire process in testing so you can see where end user results might vary depending on grit finish, and usage.


https://knifesteelnerds.com/2021/10...ness-edge-retention-and-corrosion-resistance/
 
herrwalther said:
I cringe on that article reading that 440C is better than 1095. The only thing better about 440C is it is cheap. If I grab a knife that I don't want to worry about it getting lost, stolen, or broken I will grab one of my 440 knives. Ones I care about are 1095 or better.
Click to expand...

I'll take 440C over 1095 every day of the week,and twice on Sunday.
 
For me it would depend on the knife. In an EDC folder I’d go with 440C. For a camp knife I’d take 1095. Of course, this is just based on my reading as I’ve never owned a knife in 1095.
 
SteadyD said:
“Brittle” 1095 is tougher than “premium” VG10. This fella is missing the mark just a wee bit, eh? I really like looking at knife steel ratings but they all have a certain series of assumptions or factors that make it hard to do a direct comparison. I like the following list because Dr. Larrin lays out the entire process in testing so you can see where end user results might vary depending on grit finish, and usage.


https://knifesteelnerds.com/2021/10...ness-edge-retention-and-corrosion-resistance/
Click to expand...
Really good source. I like how he discusses blade geometry's importance as well as the steels.
 
Boattale said:
Really good source. I like how he discusses blade geometry's importance as well as the steels.
Click to expand...
When I was taking some of my knives down to 15 degrees I was hesitant with a few knives with lower toughness ratings that are reportedly more prone to chipping. Then I said heck with it and decided to experiment a bit.

I dropped the angle on a blade with S110V down to 15 dps and started carving on a basswood spoon blank, intentionally putting lots of lateral force on the edge. I would cut in around a 1/4 inch deep and rotate the blade out with all of the force on the edge. No chips or rolls. That convinced me that there wasn’t much of anything I would do with a knife that S110V couldn’t handle at 15 dps.

I haven’t gotten around to testing it with Maxamet, which has an even lower toughness rating. It’s currently at around 17 or 18 so I think I’ll try it there first and then go to 15 if it holds up.

Every time I carry my Maxamet I’m reminded of spinal tap. The edge retention on Maxamet is so high that Larrin had to rate it 11 out of 10 to make the system work. When I pocket that knife I say “this one goes to 11” in my best British accent. I am easily amused.
 
All your 440c, 1095, etc steels no longer work. Paper is tougher, wood is tougher, meat is tougher, heck even vegetables are harder to cut.

The only knife steel that works is Magnacut.

(btw, sell all of your 30-30's and 30-06's as well, they no longer will take game).

I can say this because I am aeb-l to ...
 
JShirley said:
I'll take 440C over 1095 every day of the week,and twice on Sunday.
Click to expand...

I own about a half dozen knives of each. Most of the 1095 knives are full sized Kabars. I learned how to sharpen on the 1095 knives so I don't consider it hard or tedious to put an edge back on them when they go dull. 440 of any grade are just cheaper so they make better pocket carry EDC knives that are easier to replace if they get lost/broken. My most recent 440C pocket knife, I broke the pocket clip on it. I spent more than the value of the knife trying to find a replacement clip and screws. Gave up, and forked over another $30 to replace the whole knife instead.
 
I've had 1095, of course. I still have an Ek45 that I had a sheath made for in the last 6 months.

I carry a 440C folder most of the time, though. And I've accidentally cut through 2 glass bottles with it. :what:
 
JShirley said:
I've had 1095, of course. I still have an Ek45 that I had a sheath made for in the last 6 months.

I carry a 440C folder most of the time, though. And I've accidentally cut through 2 glass bottles with it. :what:
Click to expand...
What knife is it?
 
I've become spoiled on CPM steels, M4, S35VN, S30V. Extremely tough and holds an edge for-ever......Easy enough to sharpen too. My favorite is probably M4, in terms of taking and keeping an edge and for my purposes, being slightly less corrosion resistant doesn't mean a tinkers damn to me. I don't mind my knife to get a lil patina anyways....

Those are basically my favorites, CTS-XHP is also outstanding on the one knife I own of that, ZDP189, Hap40 and Elmax are also outstanding as well.

I am perfectly content with VG10 and 154CM, I can put screaming edges on VG10 and 154 even though it doesn't hold an edge nearly as long as the others. Between 440c and 1095, 1050, I'd take 1095 or 1050 any day of the week over 440c but those two are typically found in sub $100 knives so I don't have to compromise, but if I was looking at a Case slip joint or something, I'd prefer 1095 but wouldn't totally dismiss 440c, they both will cut and do what they are intended to.
 
Last edited:
my sister in law wrote copy for kershaw. she had no idea what she was doing. never held one of their knives. no idea what any of the materials were. And I don't think that's unique to kershaw.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top