My new smith 686 has only a couple hunded rounds through it and I can't seem to get much carbon off the cylinder, especially the face. I'm just using a patch soaked in mpro7 solvent--what I use for the barrel. Don't want to scrub with anything too abrasive either for fear of perpetually changing the clearance. Do blued guns have the same issue just invisible to the eye due to the dark surface?
why is it so difficult to get carbon off stainless revolvers?
- Thread starter JonF
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t_dickinson
Member
Jon,
I HAVE NEVER TRIED THIS; but a trusted friend said that when he does his complete cleanings (total disassembly - not just field strip) he soaks all parts in simple green for at least an hour then scrubs it all down followed by a coat of very light oil.
He even soaks his poly guns and says that Simple Green is gentle on the plastic and the hands.
He never mentioned rubber pards/grips and it goes without saying to keep the lumber out.
I will try it - just haven't gotten to it.
For what its worth...
I HAVE NEVER TRIED THIS; but a trusted friend said that when he does his complete cleanings (total disassembly - not just field strip) he soaks all parts in simple green for at least an hour then scrubs it all down followed by a coat of very light oil.
He even soaks his poly guns and says that Simple Green is gentle on the plastic and the hands.
He never mentioned rubber pards/grips and it goes without saying to keep the lumber out.
I will try it - just haven't gotten to it.
For what its worth...
t_dickinson
Member
Oh yeah, just a wild A. guess but maybe the bluing created a sealed surface whereas the raw stainless gathers carbon due to microscopic pores in the metal.
Now I'm curious so I hope someone can solve the mystery.
Good luck!
Now I'm curious so I hope someone can solve the mystery.
Good luck!
Starter52
Member
JonF, get a "lead-away" cleaning cloth (usually yellow in color) from your local dealer. There are a couple of brands on the market.
These cloths are the best thing ever for cleaning stainless steel guns. I've used them for years.
These cloths are the best thing ever for cleaning stainless steel guns. I've used them for years.
Guitarslinger46
Member
Same here. I use the lead-away cloths. Wipes the carbon right off. On the other hand, removing lead residue from shooting Blazer or similar unjacketed soft lead rounds is another story entirely. I need to look into some lead remover of some kind. You need to remember to wipe done with slightly oiled lint-free cloth after the lead cloth. It does leave some abrasive deposit that is easy to wipe away.
There's a combination of abrasive and chemical impregnated in the cloth. After you use it you wipe down, clean, and lube the gun. I don't think the chemical is identified, I don't have a package handy (store them in a zip-loc bag).
I was won over after cleaning my bore. I made a patch of this cloth, cleaned the bore, and was amazed by the gunk that came out of a "shiny" bore.
I was won over after cleaning my bore. I made a patch of this cloth, cleaned the bore, and was amazed by the gunk that came out of a "shiny" bore.
RON in PA
Member
Don't waste your time, the next time you shoot it the carbon rings will return.
Stainz
Member
I use Hoppes and a brass brush on the cylinder face - and time to let the solvent work. Breakfree sometimes works better. The key is to work it in and keep it wet for 10-15 minutes - let the solvents do most of the work. Wipe clean - the 'shadow' of the former exit rings will come off quickly with a tiny dab of paste metal polish, Semichrome or Flitz, in a folded cotton swipe.
The polish slicks up the micro-roughness - and several products 'seal the pores', reportedly making future cleanings easier. I just use the polish, reasoning that the softer carbon will come off much more easily than the steel. It would likely take thousands of such cleanings to remove .001" of metal, so I don't worry.
The most important key to getting rid of those rings is allowing time to let the solvent 'work'.
Stainz
The polish slicks up the micro-roughness - and several products 'seal the pores', reportedly making future cleanings easier. I just use the polish, reasoning that the softer carbon will come off much more easily than the steel. It would likely take thousands of such cleanings to remove .001" of metal, so I don't worry.
The most important key to getting rid of those rings is allowing time to let the solvent 'work'.
Stainz
moooose102
Member
i dont know if it really is more difficult, or if it is just because you see it more. on a blued surface, it does not show up so bad. but on that nice bright stainless surface, it sticks out like a ftw tattoo on your forehead!
Master Blaster
Member
I use a brass brush made by Hoppes, the toothbrush model, and Hoppes Elite Cleaner, which is Mpro-7 (they bough them out), a non toxic non volatile gun cleaner.
James T Thomas
Member
dusty gun
At the range, I'm one of the shooters who have the "patina" on his gun.
I do clean mine properly, but concern over minor details like that is not on my mind.
My concentration is with my shooting accuracy and renewing any skill I have.
I have a nice Italian pistol, and the Italian's; in the owners manual refer to it as cleaning the "dust" out of the gun after shooting.
"Dust." -There you are. Or smudge?
At the range, I'm one of the shooters who have the "patina" on his gun.
I do clean mine properly, but concern over minor details like that is not on my mind.
My concentration is with my shooting accuracy and renewing any skill I have.
I have a nice Italian pistol, and the Italian's; in the owners manual refer to it as cleaning the "dust" out of the gun after shooting.
"Dust." -There you are. Or smudge?
shootistpd27
Member
table motor
I had the same problem with my stainless judge. I used my table mounted motor, it took a second using the steel brush side to clean the weapon to mirror shine, I used it all over the weapon and it polished it beautifully.
I had the same problem with my stainless judge. I used my table mounted motor, it took a second using the steel brush side to clean the weapon to mirror shine, I used it all over the weapon and it polished it beautifully.
HuskerTanker
Member
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I used Mother's polish to brighten up my stainless 686+ and it cleans up easier now as well since the surface is soother as another poster pointed out. I don't use it on the cylinder face though, just a brass brush and solvent there.
Gary Brintzenhofe
Member
I use NEVER DULL wad polish. Cleans stainless real fast.
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