Wich reamer should i get?

[whosyrdaddy]

The blades fit into grooves on the shank. The grooves are tapered and get shallower toward the back of the shank. The back of the blades are also tapered to match the shank so that cutting edges are always parallel to the axis of the shank. Picture two cedar shims sliding against each other in opposite directions.

 

[BowerR64]

ahh that makes sence.

What about a swagged reamer?

I read that one of the models (shooter model i think) has swagged chambers so that insted of shaving off a ring of the ball when you ram it down it just squishes it down to size?

never mind that after the hole is reamed

 

[IROCZ]

WYD, are you happy with them? Easy to use?

 

[whosyrdaddy]

Chamfer the edges chambers. Tapering the chambers themselves would be a bad idea as the ball in the adjacent chambers could move forward during recoil.

 

[BowerR64]

Champher the edges chambers. Tapering the chambers themselves would be a bad idea as the ball in the adjacent chambers could move forward during recoil.

Yeah i thought swagged was a tapered hole but its just the edges.

 

[whosyrdaddy]

Yes very easy to use. Take it slow making sure to keep the reamer straight and it will center itself. I use $2/pint mineral oil laxative from Walmart pharmacy for cutting oil. No need to measure, just keep increasing the cut until the slugged ball slips into the chambers. Take care not to over tighten the nuts on the reamer. Snug is good enough.

 

[BowerR64]

Yes very easy to use. Take it slow making sure to keep the reamer straight and it will center itself. I use $2/pint mineral oil laxative from Walmart pharmacy for cutting oil. No need to measure, just keep increasing the cut until the slugged ball slips into the chambers. Take care not to over tighten the nuts on the reamer. Snug is good enough.

Is that all you do or is there some finish work? The reamer leaves a nice finish when its done right?

 

[whosyrdaddy]

10 times better than the factory finish.