Wich reamer should i get?

[BowerR64]

I thought ide get a reamer for reaming the cylinders then when i was done with it send it to the next member who needs it.

I was going to get the brownells that has the pilots but after reading some more im learning this one may not cut deep enough for what we need its more for cartridge cylinders. The pilot is so thick it wont let the die go in far enough.

I would prefer a slow hand reamer that way those who dont have a press can still do theirs.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...olver-cylinder-throating-reamer-prod7700.aspx


http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ting-reamers/throating-reamers-prod40868.aspx

http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSearchQuery=black+powder+reamer

 

[Curator]

BowerR64,

You want the cylinder throating reamer, http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...olver-cylinder-throating-reamer-prod7700.aspx

If you are reaming .44 C&B revolver cylinders you will need to ascertain the current chamber diameter and order the correct pilot. Also, you may need to shorten the pilot shaft to get the reamer to cut deep enough in a C&B chamber.

PM me if you want instructions/experience with reaming C&B revolvers

 

[BowerR64]

This is for pietta cylinders to use a .454 round ball.

 

[rodwha]

This is certainly something I'm considering doing as well.

It looks like this is intended on going straight through a cartridge chamber that has no bottom. But does that really matter much? The bottom will be filled with powder anyway… How far off would it be?

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Yes, those reamers are designed for cartridge guns. If you ream a C&B chamber too deep you may find that the loading lever can no longer reach in far enough to seat the ball on the powder.

Why do you feel you need to do this?

 

[BowerR64]

I dont know, i just have to tear stuff up i guess

 

[BullSlinger]

BowerR64, I love your humor.

 

[kBob]

Driftwood,

The reaming is because some have stated that the chambers of most reproductions are to small a diameter, so that when ramming, a "bullet" is cut or swaged to small for the barrel of the revolver. The desire is to ream out the chambers just enough to be able to produce a projectile that is slightly oversized for the bore for better accuracy.

I had suggested that in doing this it might be a good idea to cut a new and longer forcing cone on the barrel.

These were in effort of obtaining better accuracy.

While I find the discussion very interesting and might "mess up" a revolver to see for myself......if someone else buys the tools and offers them......I would suppose my best aid to accuracy would be more powder, lead and caps expended on a firing line into paper


-kBob

 

[rodwha]

I've read about the improvement to accuracy, and that would be a good thing, but for me it's about sharing the various projectiles I'll be casting for my ROA. It sure would be nice to carry a bag of one bullet that can be shared. Not to mention no need for additional custom molds or the possibility of getting them mixed up.

 

[tpelle]

I recall reading somewhere on the 'net where someone "reamed" their cylinders with abrasive paper wrapped around a dowel. Anybody think this will work?

 

[Noz]

I recall reading somewhere on the 'net where someone "reamed" their cylinders with abrasive paper wrapped around a dowel. Anybody think this will work?

I've done with great success on cartridge revolvers.

It's a waste of time on C & B. The dead soft lead will bump up to barrel diameter easily upon firing.

 

[whosyrdaddy]

This one for a cylinder or two.

http://www.amazon.com/RMBLC-2A-Carb...UTF8&qid=1388856889&sr=8-1&keywords=2a+reamer

This one if you have several to do

http://www.amazon.com/RMBL-2A-Speed...UTF8&qid=1388856889&sr=8-2&keywords=2a+reamer

This one for .36 cal

http://www.amazon.com/RMBLC-5A-Carb...UTF8&qid=1388860474&sr=8-1&keywords=5a+reamer

I wouldn't waste the money on the HSS version of the 5a unless you have several cylinders to do simultaneously.

You should be able to the entire job on one or two cylinders for less than $20 or multiple cylinders for less than $30 unless you need to buy a tap handle.

 

[J-Bar]

I've read about the improvement to accuracy, and that would be a good thing, but for me it's about sharing the various projectiles I'll be casting for my ROA. It sure would be nice to carry a bag of one bullet that can be shared. Not to mention no need for additional custom molds or the possibility of getting them mixed up.

I do this without reaming chambers. I cast .457 pure lead balls and use them in my ROAs, Pietta 1860s, and Pietta non-historic 1851 .44 brass Navies. The Piettas nominally take a .454 ball, but eat up the .457s just fine. I use the onboard loading lever on all of them, not a separate loading tool, and have never felt that I am overstressing the loading mechanism on the Piettas. Try using the .457s in your .454 chambers before reaming them out. I think you will find reaming unnecessary. As long as pure lead balls are used, .457s seat pretty easily in a .454 chamber.

I tried reaming out chambers to a larger diameter than barrel diameter. I experienced an increase in blowback cap jams afterwards. I think the larger ball entering the barrel caused chamber pressure to remain high for a longer period of time, resulting in more blowback through the nipples. I bought new cylinders and the problem went away.

Your mileage may vary.

 

[rodwha]

The bullets will either be .455 or .456" though with somewhat long driving bands. I'm afraid it'll stress the loading lever and screw attempting to press them into .446-7" chambers.

 

[BowerR64]

I do this without reaming chambers. I cast .457 pure lead balls and use them in my ROAs, Pietta 1860s, and Pietta non-historic 1851 .44 brass Navies. The Piettas nominally take a .454 ball, but eat up the .457s just fine. I use the onboard loading lever on all of them, not a separate loading tool, and have never felt that I am overstressing the loading mechanism on the Piettas. Try using the .457s in your .454 chambers before reaming them out. I think you will find reaming unnecessary. As long as pure lead balls are used, .457s seat pretty easily in a .454 chamber.

I tried reaming out chambers to a larger diameter than barrel diameter. I experienced an increase in blowback cap jams afterwards. I think the larger ball entering the barrel caused chamber pressure to remain high for a longer period of time, resulting in more blowback through the nipples. I bought new cylinders and the problem went away.

Your mileage may vary.

How did you ream them out?

I dont want to ream them to a .457 that is to much IMO i just want them to match the barrel closer then it is when new. I also want the chamber true i mean round.

Ive done the sanding and i noticed improvement in accuracy but im sure they arnt round now.

I just want to do it the right way using a tool designed to do this and share it with the others

I realize reaming the chambers wont make my guns instant target winners or make me an instant marksman but the little things will always be in the back of your mind when your shots arnt good you constantly wonder what if.

plus its just fun the constant tinkering with this type of shooting is what makes it so much more fun.

 

[J-Bar]

I used a 29/64" chucking reamer in a drill press to a depth of 1/2" in the chamber. 29/64 is .453, which was greater than groove diameter in my barrel.

The chamber mouth was round enough to shave off a lead ring when the ball was seated in the chamber, and I had no problem with ball drift from recoil using .457 balls, but it was a crude way to do it. Chucking reamers are cheap but can be difficult to control. I do NOT recommend it. I don't plan on doing it again.

 

[BowerR64]

This one for a cylinder or two.

http://www.amazon.com/RMBLC-2A-Carb...UTF8&qid=1388856889&sr=8-1&keywords=2a+reamer

This one if you have several to do

http://www.amazon.com/RMBL-2A-Speed...UTF8&qid=1388856889&sr=8-2&keywords=2a+reamer

This one for .36 cal

http://www.amazon.com/RMBLC-5A-Carb...UTF8&qid=1388860474&sr=8-1&keywords=5a+reamer

I wouldn't waste the money on the HSS version of the 5a unless you have several cylinders to do simultaneously.

You should be able to the entire job on one or two cylinders for less than $20 or multiple cylinders for less than $30 unless you need to buy a tap handle.

WOW! thanks for the links with those prices its a little easier to swollow if it doesnt work i havnt busted the wallet.

Plus since its adjustable it will work with more then one gun depending on how much needs to come out.

THANKS!

 

[IROCZ]

And you can always buy another 80 dollar cylinder if something goes terribly wrong. I could live with that. I'm having mine done by a real machinist as ASM is not in business anymore and I'm not sure a Uberti or Pietta cylinder would fit.

 

[IROCZ]

Has anyone tried one of these Amazon reamers?

 

[BowerR64]

Im going to order 2 of the cheaper ones and one of the other. I got snowed in my card is in my car ill have to order it later today.

Ill be first if you want to wait ill post some pictures and stuff of my hacking.

 

[IROCZ]

Groovy.

 

[whosyrdaddy]

Has anyone tried one of these Amazon reamers?

Yes. I have both and have reamed Pietta 1858's .44 and .36 models. I ordered those exact Victor Machining reamers from another source.

 

[BowerR64]

Yes. I have both and have reamed Pietta 1858's .44 and .36 models. I ordered those exact Victor Machining reamers from another source.

How do they work?

Not sure i understand how the blades adjust.

I see the large bolt how its threaded and the little sleve things that hold the blades but how to the blades move out for the different sizes?

 

[[email protected]]

Tighten, or lossen the nut

 

[BowerR64]

never mind i watched a youtube video, i guess the bolt is sort of wedge shaped so as you slide the blades up it gets slightly wider?

Most of mine i want to ream to fit a .454 ball but i think my shooter and the rogers will need a .457

I need to slug the rogers still it may be fine right now.

I have time yet i still havnt even ordered the tools yet.