Wilson primer pocket reamer

[Wjro]

When using the reamer to remove crimps, how far down, into the pocket, do you have to go? If I run it all the way until it bottoms out on the bottom of the primer pocket, it seems to leave a pretty big chamfer, I think too big, on the primer pocket entrance. Most of my brass is ring crimped so it would seem like the crimp would just be the first mm or so. Thoughts?

 

[AJC1]

When using the reamer to remove crimps, how far down, into the pocket, do you have to go? If I run it all the way until it bottoms out on the bottom of the primer pocket, it seems to leave a pretty big chamfer, I think too big, on the primer pocket entrance. Most of my brass is ring crimped so it would seem like the crimp would just be the first mm or so. Thoughts?

I dont use a reamer, the rcbs military crimp remover is my tool of choice. Depth control of a traditional reamer is problematic, so I dont use one.

 

[CQB45ACP]

I don’t use a reamer either and instead recently bought a Frankford Arsenal vertical mount swager for the occasional crimped pocket I find in range pistol brass.

 

[higgite]

Does anyone have a Wilson reamer that might answer OP's question? Asking for a friend.

 

[243winxb]

A different brand i use, for GI 45 acp goes all the way to bottom of the pocket. Photo from Wilson -

Looks ok to me.

 

[Wjro]

On a lot of the mil brass I have the primer pockets depths are all over the place, so the reamer doesn't go in the same depth before bottoming out, which leaves the chamfers all different, but I can't uniform the pocket until the crimp is gone, so I'll run the reamer in as far as it goes, then uniform the pocket, then re run the reamer, now with proper depth, but then the chamfer looks pretty big--can't post pics at the moment. I guess it doesn't matter if the chamfer are the same, its annoying though, I'm just unclear how deep the crimps go, in general, and if the second ream is necessary. I suppose if the KM uniformer fits it should take a primer ok.

 

[243winxb]

Read the instructions, available online.

5) Primer pocket depths vary, so the best way to assure uniform rounding at the mouth of the pocket is to trim the cases to uniform length, then use the stop on the trimmer to position the case so that the corner-rounding from the reamer goes no deeper than necessary.

The difference in pocket depth should not be more then .007" maximum.

 

[Walkalong]

Just enough to remove the crimp and allow smooth primer seating, and no more

 

[CoalTrain49]

If you have a variable speed drill with a speed setting lock you can use one of these and save some money. Not sure how well it works on large primer pockets but it's GTG on .223. It won't hit the pocket base before it reams the crimp. A dozen pieces and you'll figure out the timing.
https://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-A10CS72-High-Speed-Steel-Countersink/dp/B00NOAH2W2/ref=sr_1_17?gclid=Cj0KCQiA15yNBhDTARIsAGnwe0XYnEcgsYf8dT4bYR8wwr3bmx71WtTYZtW3mbrbs32I0mQfJiIyGvsaAnCYEALw_wcB&hvadid=177786939741&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9033400&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=15469529551694433872&hvtargid=kwd-72278151867&hydadcr=1615_9901470&keywords=1/2+countersink+bit&qid=1638381293&sr=8-17

 

[Wjro]

Read the instructions, available online. The difference in pocket depth should not be more then .007" maximum.

I read those. It's mainly the "no deeper than necessary" that I am wondering about. Is the crimp just that little but at the mouth of the pocket, such that once the reamer enters the pocket, say a couple mm, the crimp has been cut away sufficiently? The chamfer I thought was to just to help with seating. Ive never had a problem with uncrimping 5.56 or 7.62, but I didn't use a reamer for those like I am for .50.

 

[Rule3]

A couple of "twists" and the crimp is gone. Just do a few you will get the "feel" of it.

Doesn't take much.

 

[243winxb]

"no deeper than necessary"

Just break the edge so the primer aligns with the pocket. There may be a ridge left where the cut stops, making it a little harder to seat a primer. The RCBS Ram Prim unit easly seats these.

 

[Seitz 555]

As 243winxb says, just get a light chamfer on the id and you have the correct depth. Very easy and reliable tool, the correct depth is ground into the reamer,

 

[GSPKurt]

I have used most of the reamers on the market, and the Wilson is by far the best. I load on a Dillon 650 and the Wilson is the only one that allows the primers to seat easily. I had a machinist friend mill the base so it fits in a power screwdriver, as I have severe arthritis in my thumbs and can't handle doing it by hand. I love it.

 

[lightman]

I use the Wilson tool in my trimmer and I do as Wjro posted. I ream the crimp, uniform the primer pocket and ream the crimp again. Yeah, its an extra step but I want mine to be uniform. My finished product looks like the picture that 243winxb posted.

 

[GHinNH]

When using the reamer to remove crimps, how far down, into the pocket, do you have to go? If I run it all the way until it bottoms out on the bottom of the primer pocket, it seems to leave a pretty big chamfer, I think too big, on the primer pocket entrance. Most of my brass is ring crimped so it would seem like the crimp would just be the first mm or so. Thoughts?

Can't help with your actual question, I don't use reamers and never have for that and other reasons. Here are the depth tolerances of primer pockets.

Although more steps, I swage crimped pockets, then use a uniformer to make the pocket the correct depth. Then I chamfer the top corner slightly so the primers go in without catching.