I'm looking at an 1960's pre 64. I'm kind of a rifle newbie. Doesn't look like original stock. What should I look for in this model? What should I look for in barrel condition (pitting, deep groves, ect?)? Also, any issues with these older rifles shooting solid copper ammo? Thanks in advance.
Win 70 Pre-64 Model 70 Featherweight
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jim in Anchorage
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I've shot Barnes X bullets in my 1951 M70. Quit using them because they fouled the bore badly, but they did the same in my 1990's built Rem 700. Why do think the stock is not original?
Sunray
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Solid copper is never going to hurt steel. Don't see much advantage for 'em myself.
"...What should I look for..." Same thing you look for in any used rifle. Pre-64's just used machined and metal parts where stamped and plastic lives now.
"...What should I look for..." Same thing you look for in any used rifle. Pre-64's just used machined and metal parts where stamped and plastic lives now.
Sav .250
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To bad you don`t know what your looing at. I`m talking about a pre-1964
Model 70. featherweight.
If it`s in decent or better shape, you should jump on that puppy .If your just a "looker"........ to bad!
As you said ."your a newbie" Do your self a favor and google the model 70 ,featherweight.
Model 70. featherweight.
If it`s in decent or better shape, you should jump on that puppy .If your just a "looker"........ to bad!
As you said ."your a newbie" Do your self a favor and google the model 70 ,featherweight.
jim in Anchorage
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It would help us if you mentioned the caliper. I would NOT buy one of those 22".264 mags. Any thing else sure.
longknife12
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Only featherweight I have is a 308, all others are standard weight. I have never had any accuracy problems with a pre 64 that I own. Go for it.
Dan
Dan
It's a 270 win. I was just wondering how modern solid copper shoots out of older barrels. I'm in CA and some places near me require no lead bullets. So to avoid accidently crossing the road to a non- lead area I will probably use Barnes solids only.
Pre-64's in common calibers and configurations are worth $600-700 most of the time. Rare rifles or configurations bring a premium. A featherweight in good shape would probably be worth about $800. Bear in mind that is just about the same price, or slightly more than a new Featherweight sells for.
If I had a pre-64 with family history I'd not sell it for $800, but I'd not pay more for a 50 year old rifle than a new one would cost. The new rifles are pretty nice and this used one isn't exactly a collectors piece, especially if the original stock is not on it.
In some places they are required by law.
100% weight retention with excellent expansion is another good reason. I'm shooting 130 gr copper bullets in my 308 at 3050 fps. After impact they still weigh 130 gr, that's more than a conventional180 gr bullet fired from a 300 magnum and with about the same penetration.
If I had a pre-64 with family history I'd not sell it for $800, but I'd not pay more for a 50 year old rifle than a new one would cost. The new rifles are pretty nice and this used one isn't exactly a collectors piece, especially if the original stock is not on it.
In some places they are required by law.
100% weight retention with excellent expansion is another good reason. I'm shooting 130 gr copper bullets in my 308 at 3050 fps. After impact they still weigh 130 gr, that's more than a conventional180 gr bullet fired from a 300 magnum and with about the same penetration.
jim in Anchorage
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Sure but you're not getting the shrapnel effect of the missing weight on the 180.
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