Dad just gave me a beautiful Winchester 59 Win Lite that is in great shape. It has an adjustable choke. I am wondering what type ammo to use. I also read somewhere that slugs are not good to use with this type barrel but I see that the choke has a 'slug' setting. The choke also has 'lMP CYL,' 'MOD,' lMP MOD,' 'Full' and 'X-Full' settings.The barrel is marked '12 gauge 2 3/4 chamb. Full.' Thanks for your help - I have seen some pictures of cracked receivers and don't want that to happen.
Winchester 59
- Thread starter fran912
- Start date
- Status
The 59 came with fixed chokes or the forunner of the Winchoke system. The choke you described sounds like a "poly" type, what’s your barrel markings? I ask because I suspect your 59 is wearing a 50 barrel that was conventional steel barrel that a "Poly" type choke could be fitted. The original 59 barrel was made with fiberglass and a steel liner and unlikely a Poly choke would be fitted? Good luck with it. Stick to using low-brass 2 3/4" shells.
Gordon
Member
Wow , never see a polychoke on a fiberglass barrel!
kirbythegunsmith
Member
Details
The procedure to install chokes to a fiberglass barrel involved clearing a section at the muzzle down to the steel barrel liner and sweating on a metal sleeve with low-temp. silver bearing solder for added strength.
A special taper section was recommended in the CUTTS instructions to have the adapter sweated to the barrel for the majority of the inner length, and the remaining short section was mated by cutting an internal taper to match an external taper cut into the fiberglass material to a feather edge (about 10 degrees) and filled in after soldering with an epoxy.
Then more conventional threading and fitting methods finish the installation and hopefully only a little paint can cover the heat traces on the fiberglass exterior.
The steel liner is there as a base form and to provide a smooth metal surface for the wad and hot gas to contact.
I hope that makes everything clear now.
[email protected]
The procedure to install chokes to a fiberglass barrel involved clearing a section at the muzzle down to the steel barrel liner and sweating on a metal sleeve with low-temp. silver bearing solder for added strength.
A special taper section was recommended in the CUTTS instructions to have the adapter sweated to the barrel for the majority of the inner length, and the remaining short section was mated by cutting an internal taper to match an external taper cut into the fiberglass material to a feather edge (about 10 degrees) and filled in after soldering with an epoxy.
Then more conventional threading and fitting methods finish the installation and hopefully only a little paint can cover the heat traces on the fiberglass exterior.
The steel liner is there as a base form and to provide a smooth metal surface for the wad and hot gas to contact.
I hope that makes everything clear now.
[email protected]
- Status
