Wrangler acting up

[Riomouse911]

I took the grips off, removed the mainspring and replaced the stout trigger return spring with a Wolff 30 oz spring to lighten the trigger pull a bit (I kept the mainspring stock.)

Upon reassembly, the pawl seemed to stick after a couple of trigger-weight scale dry-fires. I couldn’t cock the hammer, the cylinder was bound up, etc. I got the cylinder out with some finagling, pulled the grips are replaced the Wolff with the stock trigger return spring. Upon putting it together it will function 4-5 times normally then it is locking up.

I have done this swap on my Birdshead Wrangler with no issues (and a decent reduction in trigger pull weight and feel.) Same for regular Blackhawks, no issues.

With the UPS ban on gun shipping from non ffl’s I really don’t want to have the hassle of going to my dealer to send it back to Ruger. Is there something the action that I can check first to see if I popped something loose or am I stuck sending it in? Thanks.

Stay safe.

 

[.455_Hunter]

You should still be able to ship to Ruger using their pre-paid return label.

 

[Riomouse911]

You should still be able to ship to Ruger using their pre-paid return label.

If I have to send it back I sure hope I can just drop it off. I dropped a leaking Crosman Challenger 2021 PCP air rifle off at UPS with no issues yesterday, makes it easy to do that way.

Stay safe.

 

[shooter1niner]

I've heard a lot of BS rumors about UPS lately about shipping ammo, etc... I was told ammo had to ship from an FFL to an FFL and this is NOT true. It just has to ship from a
"customer service center" or hub as they are sometimes called and not a store. Firearms have to ship to an FFL holder or manufacturer... Go to the website and see for yourself.

 

[doubleh]

I have never replaced a trigger spring on a Ruger single action revolver. Most have had a great trigger right out of of the box. My Wrangler was a bit stiff and I did the old trigger trick which put it in the nice class. It's quick, easy, and free. I have also done that to a new model blackhawk with excellent results. No others have needed it.

No advise on the lock up issue.

 

[Riomouse911]

I got a Fed Ex label from Ruger on Monday, packed it up Monday night and dropped it off at a Fed Ex business center yesterday. It should be in Prescott by tomorrow.

I will post on it when it returns.

Stay safe.

 

[Riomouse911]

I have never replaced a trigger spring on a Ruger single action revolver. Most have had a great trigger right out of of the box. My Wrangler was a bit stiff and I did the old trigger trick which put it in the nice class. It's quick, easy, and free. I have also done that to a new model blackhawk with excellent results. No others have needed it.

No advise on the lock up issue.

My Birdshead Wrangler needed help, out of the box it was stiff, gritty and not precise at all. The 30 oz return spring brought the pull weight down from over 6 lbs to around 3. Now I need to shoot it more to smooth out the grit.

Stay safe.

 

[doubleh]

Just doing the trigger trick, dropping one side of the return spring, dripped mine from 4 1/2# to 2 1/2#. Now if I could just improve it's accuracy a little I would be happy but I have done everything I know to do in that department. I did very little for it's accuracy but did eliminate the keyholeing. While tinkering with the gun I discovered why the loading gate is stiff to open. It has "U" shaped flat spring that is heavier than needed. I have read on some posts where people thought the loading gate was linked to the transfer bar causing the problem. Nope, the loading gate just opens and closes on a short shaft with this spring keeping tension on it like I suppose all the transfer bar Rugers do. I wonder why Ruger decided the Wrangler needs a stronger spring than all the other models.

While checking the trigger tension I also checked my 3 screw single six I bought in the early "60's plus the recently purchased 3 screw blackhawk. The SS was an even 3# after the thousands of rounds it's fired and the BK was 2 1/4# and both have both sides of the return spring engaged. I am happy with them all. I also checked my new model BK with one side of the trigger spring dropped and it is 2 1/2#. I have a couple of early super blackhawks that had very light triggers out of the box and I have never checked the pull weight but am very careful with. If I let someone else shoot one I warn them to keep their finger off the trigger until ready to fire. If guessing I would say 2# or slightly less.

 

[Riomouse911]

Just doing the trigger trick, dropping one side of the return spring, dripped mine from 4 1/2# to 2 1/2#. Now if I could just improve it's accuracy a little I would be happy but I have done everything I know to do in that department. I did very little for it's accuracy but did eliminate the keyholeing. While tinkering with the gun I discovered why the loading gate is stiff to open. It has "U" shaped flat spring that is heavier than needed. I have read on some posts where people thought the loading gate was linked to the transfer bar causing the problem. Nope, the loading gate just opens and closes on a short shaft with this spring keeping tension on it like I suppose all the transfer bar Rugers do. I wonder why Ruger decided the Wrangler needs a stronger spring than all the other models.

While checking the trigger tension I also checked my 3 screw single six I bought in the early "60's plus the recently purchased 3 screw blackhawk. The SS was an even 3# after the thousands of rounds it's fired and the BK was 2 1/4# and both have both sides of the return spring engaged. I am happy with them all. I also checked my new model BK with one side of the trigger spring dropped and it is 2 1/2#. I have a couple of early super blackhawks that had very light triggers out of the box and I have never checked the pull weight but am very careful with. If I let someone else shoot one I warn them to keep their finger off the trigger until ready to fire. If guessing I would say 2# or slightly less.

The trigger return springs on the Wranglers are a lot beefier than those on my other Ruger SA’s. Plus they have a decent hook on the end so I can see where taking one leg off would reduce the weight without a risk of it sliding off the peg it rests on. Maybe I’ll try that when it comes back.

The regular Wrangler shoots pretty well, but my birds head model scatters them. I think its the silvery color on the sights that is part of the problem, it is tough to see indoors and those sights don’t help. I am going to sharpie the edges black to see if that improves anything. If it doesn’t I am at a loss about what to do short of recutting the crown… which will remove all the Cerakote at the muzzle so that’ll have to be redone, too.

It is still at Ruger, hopefully it will be back home soon.

Stay safe.

 

[doubleh]

I did the sharpie thing and I can see the sights a little better. I also gave the crown a touch up with a brass lapping tool I made just got that purpose years ago and Clover fine valve grinding compound. I believe I have said I scrubbed the barrel with a bronze brush wrapped with chore boy strands and got some dark looking flecks of something out of it that I thought was probably part of the finish that drifted inside of the barrel. The finish definately laps over and covers the entire muzzle including the very small angle. The only improvement I have seen is that I have had no tumbling bullet prints on a target since but the groups are still just like they were before I did anything.

If I am correct the barrel has a rifled steel liner and this reinforces what I have decided from a couple of other barrels made this way. They don't shoot nearly as good as do solid steel barrels. I am sure some will disagree but this is my take on that type of barrel.

 

[Riomouse911]

The gun shot pretty well before it went back. I just got it back from Ruger, they did a little bit;



Replaced cylinder and trigger spring.
Fixed firing pin plunger and firing pin spring.
Said they fired three cylinders each of a couple different rounds, all is OK.

I will say the trigger pull seems heftier than it was before. I think a swap for the Wolff spring will be in order.

Stay safe.

 

[doubleh]

Personally I would try the trigger spring trick first. Like I said, 2 1/2 # on mine with no creep or overtravel that I can feel.