Fantastic GP100 D/A trigger pull!

[bestseller92]

I picked up my new GP 100 today, and I must say I'm thrilled with the double action trigger pull. It is quite literally the best DA pull I've ever had on any revolver of any make. Much better than that on my Sp101 (which isn't bad) and better even than the Smith K frames I've owned.

I've put not quite a box full of shells through the GP so far (I've only had it home an hour) but I like it a lot. More shootin' to come this weekend!

 

[Gato Montés]

Are you absolutely sure? I mean, I'm a Ruger fan myself, but, uh...

 

[461]

Got one like it myself. Feels like it came through a very good custom shop but I got it brand new. I've had it about five years and it's a keeper in every way.

 

[LeonCarr]

Looks like the rumors about Ruger QC improving are true. Most GPs need a little TLC, dry firing, a spring change, or a combination of all three to get an above average trigger pull.

Good to know things are looking up.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr

 

[craig_o]

Got mine two months ago or so. It's smooth as silk.

 

[Jim March]

Huh. Yeah, we're getting a lot of positive reports on Ruger QC lately.

The current upswing seems to have started around the time when the "anniversary guns" started shipping in 2004-2005 era...my 2005-vintage Ruger NewVaq was an excellent critter indeed and others I checked out at the same time passed with flying colors too.

 

[C-grunt]

My new SP101 has a great DA pull. I'd say better than any Smiths I have fired...which isnt a whole lot. The SA isnt as good though. Just not a crisp as the 686.

 

[greener]

I always thought the S&W's had a "better" DA trigger feel. I think I've about decided that they are just different. The GP100 seems to allow you to "stage" the trigger easier than the Smiths. I have a GP100 and there is nothing wrong with the trigger pull. When I first got mine, I thought I was going to have to start doing some work on the trigger. I guess I have, lots of pulling the trigger followed immediately by a bang from the gun. I shoot mine almost exclusively in DA with darned good results.

 

[Dienekes]

I bought a virtually new GP-100 from an estate some years back that someone--never could find out who--worked on the DA pull and put in a trigger stop as well.

The DA on that gun is as good or better than any S&W I have ever tried--just outstanding.

My daughter tried it out for the first time recently and loved it. Best .357 I own.

 

[duallydave]

My GP100 was pretty stiff when new, but after going through it per the IBOK, it is VERY smooth and the stiffness is gone.

If you ask, what is an IBOK - go to rugerforum.net to find out.

 

[Brad Johnson]

GP100/SP101 trigger job in a box...

Wolff 10lb mainspring
Wolff reduced power trigger return spring
A dab of Flitz
A buffer-equipped Dremel.

Dissasemble. Use Dremel and Flitz to polish all internal surfaces. Reassemble with new springs. Enjoy.

Brad

 

[FullEffect1911]

There is just something about those GP100 triggers that I love. For some reason my GP100 has the best DA trigger of all my DA revolvers. So far I prefer it way over my new to me 629's trigger. However I don't believe the 629 has been shot DA that much. So I suppose time will tell.

 

[Ceemack]

Can you quantify "better"? What's the pull weight?

 

[TOGGLELOCK]

NO, YOU DON'T REPLACE THE TRIGGER RETURN SPRING ON A RUGER WITH ANYTHING OTHER THEN AN OEM TRIGGER SPRING! You will alter the Transfer Bar Timing. Mainspring replacement is one thing. NEVER the Trigger Return Spring. Also, you need to run the factory bench tests and if you don't know which tests those are. You probably shouldn't be messing with that action!
TOGGLELOCK (Ruger Factory Armorer)

 

[hags]

I've replaced plenty of Ruger trigger return springs. With the possible exception of having to smooth out a too rough action for one of them to function "smoothly" I haven't had any problems.

Other than the sear/hammer hook engagement, the trigger return spring and the "smoothness" of the internal trigger parts determines your single action pull weight and contributes to your DA pull.

 

[hags]

GP100/SP101 trigger job in a box...

Wolff 10lb mainspring
Wolff reduced power trigger return spring
A dab of Flitz
A buffer-equipped Dremel.

Dissasemble. Use Dremel and Flitz to polish all internal surfaces. Reassemble with new springs. Enjoy.

Brad

That's right!

Brownell's sells a Ruger spring set with reduced power hammer and trigger return springs for the GP100.

I used stones and sweat for polishing but the results should be the same. Smoothing out the action parts with a stone or your Dremel is a great way to really smooth out the trigger action on the GP100.
Don't forget to polish all sides of the transfer bar as well. There are a couple of small stamped parts in the trigger group that benefit immensely from polishing.

 

[hags]

NO, YOU DON'T REPLACE THE TRIGGER RETURN SPRING ON A RUGER WITH ANYTHING OTHER THEN AN OEM TRIGGER SPRING! You will alter the Transfer Bar Timing. Mainspring replacement is one thing. NEVER the Trigger Return Spring. Also, you need to run the factory bench tests and if you don't know which tests those are. You probably shouldn't be messing with that action!
TOGGLELOCK (Ruger Factory Armorer)

HUH?

could you explain this....

DON'T REPLACE THE TRIGGER RETURN SPRING ON A RUGER WITH ANYTHING OTHER THEN AN OEM TRIGGER SPRING! You will alter the Transfer Bar Timing.

Maybe this is an opportunity for me to learn something but this doesn't make any sense. The transfer bar is physically connected to the trigger. When you pull back the trigger, the transfer bar moves up. When you release the trigger the transfer bar moves back down. Simple.
Nothing is reset until the trigger returns to the forward position. Unless your trigger is not returning to the forward position, which would make this a moot point, then there is no "timing" issue.
I may be wrong but I think a little clarification of this statement is in order.

An OEM strength trigger return spring will insure that no matter how rough the action is that the trigger will return forward. Most actions are not this rough and they all can be smoothed out greatly just by polishing the internals. You don't need a mirror finish just remove rough spots, flashing and contact points.

At least this has been my experience.

 

[PzGren]

My GP100 has been worked over competely and the trigger is not bad. I shoot it only in D/A. Almost all my S&W have a better D/A pull . Nevertheless, among my S&W revolvers there are differences, too.

But then, the GP isn't shot a lot, I got maybe 5,000 rounds through it and still hope for it to improve.

 

[Virginian]

Completely agree with hags, there is no way a spring change is going to do a thing to the timing of the transfer bar, or anything else. Everything is physically connected, and the "timing" is controlled by the original dimensions. And, also as hags said, factory springs are strong enough to compensate for any sloppy workmanship or factory 'oversights'. If you make sure everything is smooth and there are no screw ups, you can utilize much softer springs for a much better trigger feel.
If single action accuracy is your ultimate goal, you will not want a softer hammer spring, because it will increase lock time, but a softer trigger spring won't hurt a thing. Otherwise high tech target rifles wouldn't have trigger pulls measured in ounces.

 

[PzGren]

NO, YOU DON'T REPLACE THE TRIGGER RETURN SPRING ON A RUGER WITH ANYTHING OTHER THEN AN OEM TRIGGER SPRING!

Well Buddy, I did. I polished some parts and the action is improved. They don't teach you that at Ruger since their lawyers know how employees ( and a few shooters) screw up.

 

[Stainz]

My .454 SRH (same lockwork as a GP100) had a DA trigger to brag about - or at least I thought so... until I got my first S&W - a 625MG in .45 Colt. I got as far as the hammer spring in my SRH - and reverted back to the OEM due to ftfs - not very desireable anytime, but when you expect a .454 'Crack' and get a wimpy click, it is un-nerving.

I did trade the OEM springs in my 4" SP101, which has a down-sized GP/SRH lockwork, for the kit's weakest components. It popped all primers, too... and, after too much TLC (Thanks to Iowegan's instructions on the Ruger forum!), it became a real treat to shoot. Still cheesy sights and over-sized chambers convinced me I didn't need it, however.

Operationally, the trigger return spring resets the trigger - and holds the takedown plunger in place. Your 'timing' is affected as it would be with a S&W trigger block return spring - stronger means a faster return - and follow-up shot. Jerry Miculek believes in a weak hammer spring, and Federal-only primers, and strong return spring in his speed revolvers.

In any case, I, the S&W fanatic who recently divested himself of his last four Ruger revolvers (Okay, I still have an Old Army... and a MKII.. they were gifts from my wife.), tried current GP100s at different dealers around town - oddly all at $489 - and found them identical in quality, both physical appearance and lockwork action. Sad, huh?

Yes, I agree - this type of QC has been missing. Triggers that don't feel like moving a broomhandle around in a bucketful of sand have been overdue. I first noted the smoother lockwork in the new 4" .44 Redhawk. Having just sold my 5.5" SS .45 Redhawk, I was astonished. The GP100 was even slicker - and lighter. I am impressed... maybe just enough so...

Nope, I just bought a new 627 Pro and a LNIB 64 - I have 4" .38 & .357M covered, I suppose. Still, if they resurrect the partial lugged grey 4" SS GP100, I'm there!

Stainz

 

[hags]

Operationally, the trigger return spring resets the trigger - and holds the takedown plunger in place. Your 'timing' is affected as it would be with a S&W trigger block return spring - stronger means a faster return - and follow-up shot. Jerry Miculek believes in a weak hammer spring, and Federal-only primers, and strong return spring in his speed revolvers.

Yes, but that's not at all what was implied by the statement:

NO, YOU DON'T REPLACE THE TRIGGER RETURN SPRING ON A RUGER WITH ANYTHING OTHER THEN AN OEM TRIGGER SPRING! You will alter the Transfer Bar Timing.

He didn't say you'll slow down trigger return.

The speed of the hammer return is almost imperceptively changed if all other things are equal. You will have a lighter return and if all internal friction and impedances are removed then the speed of the return change is nominal.

Like I said, these are just my experiences.

 

[Dollar An Hour]

I too got lucky with my 3" stainless GP100. It had a terrific trigger out of the box. Purchased nearly 3 years ago.

SP101s, meanwhile, tend to be horrible out of the box.

And yes, Ruger DA triggers invite staging of the trigger more than S&W's which just kinda pull smoothly straight through. It's a matter of getting used to one or the other I guess.

 

[don95sml]

duallydave said:

My GP100 was pretty stiff when new, but after going through it per the IBOK, it is VERY smooth and the stiffness is gone.
If you ask, what is an IBOK - go to rugerforum.net to find out.

This is good advice. Even if you think your Ruger trigger is pretty good, you'd be amazed at how much better you can make it. IBOK stands for Iowegan's Book of Knowledge. You need to register on the Ruger forum to use most of it, but registration is free, just as in this forum. The updated link to the forum is www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/ .

 

[Confederate]

On my Security-Sixes, I've had to reduce the trigger pull, by filing down the shoulders of the mainspring retention guide. Once that's done, then comes the monotonous job of dry firing the gun. After awhile, the gun becomes remarkably smooth and the action does seem like it's been worked on.

Out-of-the-box Rugers improved dramatically by just being played with. I'm not sure I like the Wolfe single action spring (it seems a bit Mickey Mouse), but I've no complaints with mine. No Ruger I've seen will touch my Smith 686 and 629, both of which I've worked on.