Tell me about the S&W Model 10

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OK,

Sorry to bother the forum but, I have a chance to buy a 98% - 99% model 10-5 four inch pinned barrel. Serial number C820xxx, grips original. Has a "V" stamped on crane. I looks like it was never carried and shot very little.
Just wonder if anyone can give me an idea of when this was made? Book value maybe? It is not going cheap, but it is really calling my name.
 
Sorry to bother the forum but, I have a chance to buy a 98% - 99% model 10-5 four inch pinned barrel. Serial number C820xxx, grips original. Has a "V" stamped on crane. I looks like it was never carried and shot very little.
Just wonder if anyone can give me an idea of when this was made? Book value maybe? It is not going cheap, but it is really calling my name.
Click to expand...

I just bought its sibling (C829xxx) last week. ANIB condition with original grips for $350. Probably on the high end, but not outrageously so; besides, once I held it, it called my name as well. Also, everyone needs a Model 10, so what could be better than a pristine one?

The Standard Catalogue puts your serial # at 1966-1967 (C810533 - C999999), so I'd put it with mine - 1966.
 
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Sounds like model 10s haven't skyrocketed in value like some smiths... is that because they made so many of them? I love mine... 10-5 2" round butt.
 
Saw two in a pawn shop yesterday in about the same shape as DDG89's for $350. I bought a similar gun a couple of years ago for $215 and sold it later for $250.

Gun show yesterday, $350 to $425 for beaters. I reckon they will get to take those back home with them.
 
Its kinda funny. I see all these old Model 10's kicking around, including mine. They are a little beat up, finish worn, rubber grips or beat up old wooden grips with Tyler T-Grips and, it hits me. They all work. Go to the Auto forums and there is great discussion about the best magazine for improved reliability, how often to change out the recoil spring, polishing feedramps, adjusting extractors, how much frame rail wear is too much...on and on. And, the old revovlers just keep going bang and sending thier bullets downrange. Yeah, the revolver is obsolete.
 
sgt127--totally agree. Very few problems with the older Smith and Ruger revolvers seem to arise on the forum. Just might indicate something.
 
I found a nice 10-5 at the local pawn shop the other day. I only had a few minutes, so I gave it a quick once-over. It's a pencil barrel, and it seemed to me to be a longer barrel - did they make a 5"? If not, it must be a 4". I've been practicing with my SP101 lately, so anything seems long compared to it. The Smith locks up tight in all 6 cylinders and probably in the 85%+ range on bluing. A little surface rust; no pits. Didn't have the chance to try to peer down the barrel. They're asking $250. From what I've read using the "search" feature on smith 10-5s, that's an OK price. I think I might offer $225 OTD and see if they bite.

I did almost go over the counter at the clerk, tho. I asked to see the revolver. He pulls it off the wall, opens the cylinder to check for empty (well done, so far) but then in good Hollywood Cop Show style, flips his wrist and snaps the action closed. I refrained from screaming, but did...encourage...him to not do that again.

If I can, I'll swing by this afternoon and try to check cylinder/barrel allignment and barrel condition. If it's all well & good, is $225 a good price? If allignment is out, that's negotiation power (how much $$???), but is it still a worthy investment knowing a gunsmith will need to address something?

Thanks,
Q
 
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From what I've learned about these here and on other forums in the past few weeks $225-250 would be a good price. People say you can find them in scads in great shape for $200 but I think that statement is a few years out of time.
 
Another big fan of the M10 here. Probably 95% of what can be done with a handgun can be done with a Model 10.
 
Xavier,

I picked up a WELL worn 10-5 for around $180 last year. It came with a Hogue Handall on it, which I didnt much care for.

I put in a request for finding some well worn grips, to match the condition of the gun as well as a worn Tyler T grip. The guys over at Smith and Wesson forums hooked me up, actually I received the T grip, Smith and Wesson grips and holster all for free, nice guys over there.

My intention was to toss together a period correct, well use carry setup.

Was I even close?

vintagecarry.jpg

About what time frame did they go from ammo loops to speed loaders.

I have my county sheriffs duty rig from the early 70s, setup for a K frame and it has ammo loops built into the holster.....I was wondering if that would be more correct - or perhaps not, maybe it was an old holster when he used it.
 
I have to agree with what eveyone so far has said about the S&W M10. I bought my M10-14 a little less than a year ago and have not been disappointed. I tried to find a nice used speciman but such was not possible, so I had to buy new. One of the great things about this gun is they are more accurate than they have a right to be. I have come up with some good hand loads and I'm in the process of working on one more.
P1300045.jpg

I use the 158gr SWC for a general purpose load, I also have +P load for it. The Hornady 158gr SWCHP is loaded over a +P charge of Unique to replicate the "FBI" load, both loads are super accurate. The last load is going to be my woods load, right now I'm in the process of doing a load workup. For this load I'm using the Lyman #358429 bullet, the ones I have weigh in at about 170gr. The great thing about this bullet is the length from the base to the crimp groove is the same as a 158gr SWC bullet. So it don't take up anymore case capacity than a 158gr SWC as the weight is in the nose, therefore you can use the same powder charge as you would for the 158gr SWC.
 
Okay, so I have located a few of these at an internet retailer. The salesguy's schpeell was that these are police trade in's, at least 20 years old, and exhibit more holster and handling wear than actual mechanical wear.
Not pretty but good shooters basically. Lock up is said to be nice and tight as I've heard is common with police weapons. Carried a lot but not shot much.

All 4" blued in either standard or heavy barrels with some having round butts. Ranging from good to very good condition.

What's the difference between the standard butts and the round butts?
Any advantages in the standard or heavy barrels?

Anything I should ask about?
 
The round butt is generally considered easier to conceal, because the bottom doesn't flare outward. Some might like the grip better. Personally, I like the feel of the square butt. It encourages a high grip on the revolver, which I prefer. However, a round butt revolver can use grips(round-to-square) that makes it feel like a square butt. The round butt is therefore likely the better choice.

IMO, the thin barrel balances and carries better. The heavy barrel would help tame recoil and slow heat buildup... but it's a .38 Special revolver and I've never had a heat issue with my pencil barrelled model 10.
 
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