Hornady Kinetic Puller

I have the Frankford Arsenal one, and it has served me well. I have used it to pull many factory loads, as well as more than a few loads I wasn't happy with.

What ever hammer type bullet puller you have adding the Quinetics uni-chuck shim fit combo make the process faster, simpler and easier by reducing repetitive steps. No removing/replacing the cap off and on with each and every bullet pulled.

I have never messed up a load so I have never had to use one of those hammer things.

LOL! My RCBS kinetic puller has served me well for 25+ year of intermittent use. I did have to replace the O ring recently though.

RCBS one has a lifetime warranty if that matters.
My the cap on my Cabela's one broke, no spare parts.
Never used a lot, plastic just didn't age well.
Figured I might as well get the RCBS one next, only a few $ more.
Haven't used it much lately, but would not want to be without it.

Reeferman: Call Hornady and let them know about your problem. If you still have the packaging it came in keep it. It will let them know what batch it came from. It will help them in finding out if they have a bad contractor supplying them. And you know as well as I, they will make it right.

https://www.quineticscorp.com/products/kinetic-bullet-puller

Buy once, cry once.

badkarmamib said:

I have the Frankford Arsenal one, and it has served me well. I have used it to pull many factory loads, as well as more than a few loads I wasn't happy with.

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same here although I now also have the collet bullet puller. One tip if you are using the kinetic puller stick a squishy ear plug down in the channel so when the bullet comes out if you are using a soft tip bullet it doesn't damage it!

Reeferman said:

I have to see if I still have the packaging as the local gun shop I bought it at just handed me the second one as I didn’t bring the other collets with me. I’ll be going back there maybe this week and see what I can do. I’m not to worried about it as they are not that expensive. I can’t be the only one that this is happening to and will give Hornady a call.

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I 'am like you I don't worry about a dollar here or there but I remember being a lot younger with 5 girls. I could squeeze a nickel and make it scream. And I try and help those that are like I used to be.

Without any knowledge of reloading equipment I bought the RCBS kinetic puller when I ordered my Hornady LNL Deluxe press kit. I think it was the cheaper option from Natchez at the time. I’ve whacked it on wood, concrete, ceramic tile, office furniture...still serving me well. Of course I’ve only pulled about 15 to 20 bullets this way...most of the uses were to lengthen a round I seated too deeply. I remember my severe trepidation on using it for the first time...terrified. What am I doing whacking a hammer with a loaded bullet onto a hard surface? No mishaps...so I’ve grown a bit more adept at using it. That said, I picked up the Hornady Cam Lock bullet puller and actually learned to use it. I like being able to preserve the powder when I deconstruct a round.

You do know we send all the broken crap to Canada, don't you? Just kidding. Just letting you know that I remember you. But I have noticed that I have seen a lot fewer questions from you. You are passing your knowledge on to the frozen, aren't you?

Reeferman wrote:
A few weeks ago my RCBS one finally broke after many years.

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When they break, it is time to replace it with another one. They do not have infinite lives. If you got a decade or more out of yours, then be thankful for the service and order a replacement.

I have an RCBS and it works. Though if you make a mistake and don't catch it right away, pulling multiple cartridges is annoying. Thinking about a cam lock setup.

How tight are you torquing the cap? The cap does not need to be tight, just screwed down on the tool to keep the cartridge in the cavity. Barely finger tight is enough. I'm a lifelong machinist/mechanic and I've seen many complaints about reloading tools and most are just tool use ignorance. Unfortunately, just because one can reload, doesn't mean they have any mechanical aptitude (I once purchased a used set of RCBS dies that were once owned by a gorilla. The body threads were distorted by over tightening and I had to repair them before the dies would even screw into the press. All the allen set screw sockets were stripped. The previous owner had no idea how screws/bolts/nuts work and obviously used a 18" crescent wrench with a 36" cheater bar to tighten the lock nuts)...

I had to take a break from a spirited game of checkers to read this thread.

Good stuff!

badkarmamib said:

I have the Frankford Arsenal one, and it has served me well. I have used it to pull many factory loads, as well as more than a few loads I wasn't happy with.

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^^^This^^^

Speaking of pipe.....

Reeferman said:

A few weeks ago my RCBS one finally broke after many years.

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hdwhit said:

When they break, it is time to replace it with another one. They do not have infinite lives. If you got a decade or more out of yours, then be thankful for the service and order a replacement.

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Mine has lasted for nearly 45 years.

Built from instructions in Handloader Magazine way back then. That was before anyone commercially offered a kinetic. No, it's never blown up......proof......I'm still annoying people.
Regular RCBS case holders are used with epoxy h.m. slide-in closers to keep heads & primers dead center where the primers can't strike anything 'cept air.

Used to have a how-to posted, but there was somebody it annoyed.....(not our mod).....and I don't like confrontation so I erased it. Bet you can guess the big red end hit the concrete.....it is filled with soft foam.

BTW, no pipe wrench used at the ends. Just hand loosy tight each end. Did crack the red piece 10 years ago....parts are pretty easy to find......

mdi’s right. I just snug the Hornady cap. Works fine. I’ve whacked my Hornady puller on an anvil for several years w/ no problem.

Reeferman:

Disclaimer: When I made this there was no commercial kinetic pullers. I believe this design (certainly not mine) gave companies the idea. At the going rate of modern commercial plastic varieties, there is no monetary advantage, especially counting the time and effort to build it. Its only advantage is that it might last a lot longer.

I don't have any control over how safe you make yours.......the case head, absolutely, must be immovably centered in the case holder to prevent a primer from hitting any metal on said case holder, which might detonate the primer.

Such an accident has "supposedly" happened when owners of plastic commercial tools substituted reloading press case holders for those made explicitly for said plastic commercial tools and the experimenters didn't make the case immovable. I say supposedly because I have never seen any photographic evidence that such an accident actually ever happened. Yet, you don't want to be the first....even so.

My pictures didn't make it from Photoshop's fiasco a couple of years ago....the only ones I permanently lost......and I haven't made any more. But I'll try to explain the business end (or where the case holder is):

1" iron cap---has foam in the bottom only for to reduce depth and force the case holder up against the reducer. I made a plastic ring to fit inside the shell holder by wrapping Dymo Embossing tape backwards (adhesive backing removed) around a shell holder until it made a tight fit with shell holder and ring inside the iron cap. It took two or three wraps as I remember.....The ring, not the shell holder was glued in place in the cap. So for example, if you use red tape, the red side is against the shellholder sticky side out then wrapped...each wrap sticking to the one under. That means when you're done the shellholder can drop out....everything else is held fast. Expoxy was applied inside the cap, then the ring...shellholder inserted was set in place.

Screwed together Shell holder rests against the next part, the 1" to 3/4" reducer (rest of tool except the other end is 3/4" pipe and fittings) held tight there by the foam behind the shell holder in the bottom of the cap. All hammer force is applied to shell holder/reducer connection.

The critical part of this is what holds a case in the center of the case holder:

For that I made another ring out of the Dymo Embossing tape (a form)...just a couple of wraps....red side in...and vaseline-coated the inside, the shell holder and a cartridge case. Case was mounted to the case holder, ring surround applied, then a good grade of epoxy putty....with metal strand reinforcing was pushed into the space in front of the case where it would ordinarily slide out. Then cured. That operation was repeated for each caliber, so each shell holder has it's own case retainer.

Once cured the new molded epoxy case retainer can be slid out and all is then cleaned of vaseline.

Result....when the tool is to be used, the cartridge is inserted in the case holder, the epoxy "case retainer" is inserted, and the combination is mounted, cartridge first, onto the iron reducer, cartridge hanging inside. the cap, with it's shell holder profile modification, is slipped over it and screwed on.

There! Simple! Clear as mud, right?!