That makes sense.No wax is needed for patch lubrication. For the range use a spit patch. For hunting use mink oil, olive oil or something similar. Wax in lubes is for conical bullet lube in ML and Ctg. guns to help it stay on the bullet.
Yes I shy away from parafin, or other non-organic ingredients in my lube. Parafin will melt in a wooden candle lantern sitting in the sun on a hot day, while beeswax will get soft, but not go liquid. So I figure the parafin doesn't help much of anything. It isn't as stiff as beeswax, nor as soft as lard, so why not simply adjust the ratio of the two to get what you want? Also I don't like petroleum products in the barrel, and then trying to clean the black powder residue. I do my best to wipe the bore dry before firing, to remove the modern rust preventative....so its an equal part of beeswax/paraffin/mutton tallow....
That is definitely on the to do list.Mr.whughett, yes i keep the pan warm...i actually store my lube already mixed and hard and all i do is measure 20 grams of it and place it in the pan on top of a single sheet of napkin...one napkin fits almost perfectly at the bottom of a bread loaf pan (i have to cut to fit some brands of napkins)...then i place the pan on top of the stove top coil and turn the dial to 1...which isnt hot but warm enough to melt the lube. Once the lube is evenly spread and absorbed into the napkin i take the pan off the stove and let it cool. Once cooled i pop out the wax-lubed napkin and punch out my thin lube discs. The 1:5 or 1:6 by weight tallow to wax ratio is a stiff lube...even seems as if its too stiff compared to other wax and lube ratios but it works perfectly. You should try it in your cartridges...you wont be disappointed.
I was going to post a new thread but perhaps I get a quick reply.
Charging order for revolver cylinder.
Powder, wad, filler, ball .....
Powder, filler, wad, ball ...... or does it matter.