What is everyone's favorite gun oil?

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Gun oil? Oil is oil, Mobil One works fine. As a synthetic, much less likely to gum up or be affected by temperature, hot or cold.

Cleaning, Hoppe’s Elite, rust protection, WD-40 Professional Long Term Rust Inhibitor, proven to be the best.
 
bannockburn said:
Rem-Oil works fairly well as a light lubricating oil in certain applications.
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Yep, easy to use, light, gets in spaces, and it works. It is not going to last as long without re-oiling as some lubes.

Lubing it is far more important than which lube, just use something regularly. Check it out often, keep it oiled. You don't need to deep clean it all the time, just keep it oiled and reasonably clean. And of course, if it's a carry gun, it gets more attention.


https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/best-gun-oil.801479/#post-10229476
 
A recent Brownells "smyth busters" episode noted that while regular vehicle oil does a fine job of lubricating, gun oil has better anti-corrosion additives. In the quantities we use for lubricating guns, I picked up a lifetime supply of Lucas extreme duty gun oil for $8. Breakfree CLP is also good.
 
George P said:
Full synthetic 5W-30
RemOil
3-n-1
Hoppe's
Like those last three, pretty much any mineral oil-based product works good enough. Lubrication is one thing, rust prevention is another
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I use synthetic motor oil as well but lower weight(thinner)..Mobil One..
 
I've been using WeaponShield for a few years and I like it. The smell is less noxious than some of the others, and I also like the fact that it's a little thicker than RemOil, which I used for many years. I occasionally grab a little of something else just to try, but I haven't found anything I like better. I guess it's a good thing, because I bought about a quart of it last year and use a needle dropper for lubing my guns....
 
There are 3 primary steps in gun maintenance: cleaning, lubricating, preserving. I use 3 different chemicals to do this. To CLEAN, or remove carbon and other filth from the bore and other working parts, I use Mpro-7 solvent. It works well, and has no odor. I buy it by the gallon. Shooter's choice and Hoppes solvent work well too, but cost more than Mpro7 and definitely have an odor. On high round count "clunkers" like my old SKS or 22 pistol, I will substitute a gun solvent with carb cleaner from auto zone. To LUBRICATE the working parts of a gun, I will use white lithium grease from auto zone. A little bit goes a long way, and it sticks well. This is esp. important with semi autos like an AR, which will just fling a liquid out when fired, with the remains that stay in the gun forming a greasy crud. In the army, we even used this in afg on machine guns, and they kept thumping away. It is at least as good as the more expensive lubes like frog lube. To PRESERVE, or apply a rust/corrosion barrier to the outer surfaces, I use whatever cheap generic motor oil is on sale at- you guessed it- auto zone. I apply this with a small paint brush. The motor oil is also fine as a LUBE on guns with manual actions like pump shotguns, bolt action rifles, lever guns, etc. These guns don't require much lube to operate since they are manual, and generally have lower round counts than autos anyway. So, the only purpose- designed chemical I purchase for gun maintenance is SOLVENT (mpro-7). Everything else is just cheap stuff that works from auto zone. As for rem oil, I don't think its worth a hoot, since it is relatively thin and evaporates pretty quick. I do have a small can of it in my jeep, which I use to spray down my hunting rifles and shotguns after a wet day in the field or blind before I put the gun in the case- just to prevent rust before I have the opportunity to clean it correctly when I get home the next day, or whenever. It seems suspiciously close in properties to WD40, which is suitable for things like squeaky door hinges, stiff fishing reels, and seized up pliers.
 
whughett said:
Ballistol. The German military used it in WW2 and we all know about German Engineering. :)
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And they found they had to run their weapons dry in the Russian winter. I live in WI, which has similar weather. Hence the powdered graphite in my lube stash.

FL-NC said:
There are 3 primary steps in gun maintenance: cleaning, lubricating, preserving. I use 3 different chemicals to do this. To CLEAN, or remove carbon and other filth from the bore and other working parts, I use Mpro-7 solvent. It works well, and has no odor. I buy it by the gallon. Shooter's choice and Hoppes solvent work well too, but cost more than Mpro7 and definitely have an odor. On high round count "clunkers" like my old SKS or 22 pistol, I will substitute a gun solvent with carb cleaner from auto zone. To LUBRICATE the working parts of a gun, I will use white lithium grease from auto zone. A little bit goes a long way, and it sticks well. This is esp. important with semi autos like an AR, which will just fling a liquid out when fired, with the remains that stay in the gun forming a greasy crud. In the army, we even used this in afg on machine guns, and they kept thumping away. It is at least as good as the more expensive lubes like frog lube. To PRESERVE, or apply a rust/corrosion barrier to the outer surfaces, I use whatever cheap generic motor oil is on sale at- you guessed it- auto zone. I apply this with a small paint brush. The motor oil is also fine as a LUBE on guns with manual actions like pump shotguns, bolt action rifles, lever guns, etc. These guns don't require much lube to operate since they are manual, and generally have lower round counts than autos anyway. So, the only purpose- designed chemical I purchase for gun maintenance is SOLVENT (mpro-7). Everything else is just cheap stuff that works from auto zone. As for rem oil, I don't think its worth a hoot, since it is relatively thin and evaporates pretty quick. I do have a small can of it in my jeep, which I use to spray down my hunting rifles and shotguns after a wet day in the field or blind before I put the gun in the case- just to prevent rust before I have the opportunity to clean it correctly when I get home the next day, or whenever. It seems suspiciously close in properties to WD40, which is suitable for things like squeaky door hinges, stiff fishing reels, and seized up pliers.
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You were taught by the best. I had a bunch of REMF's that I had a hard time getting to even use BreakFreeCLP, (in the right places) especially after we got the steam cleaner.

<paraphrasing LTC Kilgore;> That smell, the Hoppe's smell, the whole gun room-it smelled like clean guns!</prarphrasing LTC Kilgore>

MPro 7 does work well, but I'd miss the aroma of Hoppe's #9. ;)
 
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Motor oil, break free clp, rem oil, whatever.
It's all slippery goo , I honestly don't see any one as better than anything else. Expensive snake oil. I always keep a can of break free clp in my range bag for convenience and to hose down my poodle shooter if she starts slowing down
 
entropy said:
I had a bunch of REMF's that I had a hard time getting to even use BreakFreeCLP, especially after we got the steam cleaner.

<paraphrasing LTC Kilgore;> That smell, the Hoppe's smell, the whole gun room-it smelled like clean guns!</prarphrasing LTC Kilgore>

MPro 7 does work well, but I'd miss the aroma of Hoppe's #9. ;)
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Break free CLP is designed to do 3 completely different tasks with 1 product. The only problem is that it doesn't especially excel at any of them. It is adequate enough for mil use for these purposes, since the mil only needs to purchase 1 product for snuffy to clean his weapon (even though my command bought better stuff for use on sniper rifles). If the mil purchased 3 different products, some dummy would try to lube a machinegun with bore cleaner, or jam a patch covered in grease down the bore of his M16. I once saw a fellow Ranger student (suffering from sleep and food deprivation) absent mindedly clean a M60 with insect repellant. I don't mind the smell of Hoppes, but my guns are stored in the house, and Mrs. Fl-NC has something to say about anything that emits an odor, except for those things she plugs into the walls and hogs all the receptacles with.
 
rust collector said:
A recent Brownells "smyth busters" episode noted that while regular vehicle oil does a fine job of lubricating, gun oil has better anti-corrosion additives. In the quantities we use for lubricating guns, I picked up a lifetime supply of Lucas extreme duty gun oil for $8. Breakfree CLP is also good.
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I agree with this. I also don't use a lot of oil so I never saw the need to use anything but "gun oil" that had the clean, lubricate, protect components.

I have mostly used Mpro7 and Sip2000EWL for oil the last few years. I got some Breakfree CLP lately and it is working well also. It doesn't take much for lubrication alone. There are lots of oil options that will work.

Some of the older petroleum based oils can dry over time and leave behind a film that does not lubricate. Older Hoppes oils would do this. I think they changed their oil, but I don't know (I guess Mpro7 is a Hoppes product). I stopped using #9 a while back.

The only grease I keep around is for my M1 Garand. My experience with grease on other guns is it attracts too much dust/debris and gums up the action. Others may have different experience.
 
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Guess I have to say breakfree CLP and Lucas gun oil. But - probably more because I got a whole pile of it some time back as Christmas presents. Several large cans actually. So... i won't be running out of it any time soon. Seems to do what's needed. but my guns aren't exactly stored or used in harsh conditions either.
 
Great question. I move from one to another and really dont get too into it. They all do their job.
I care more about the container/dispenser and ease of use and application.
Rem oil is super thin and has a magical power of disappearing...and some say that aerosoled teflon is highly toxic. Im thinking I dont like Rem Oil, but have a can of it and still use it...
 
50% ATF
25% STP
25% Mobil 1 (30 wt)

An old National Guard armorer I used to shoot with recommended this formula to me. I mixed up a quart almost 30 years ago and have been happily using it ever since.

For corrosion protection of stored guns I haven’t found anything other than cosmoline that does a better job than a nice thick coat of Johnson’s paste wax. And unlike cosmoline JPW dries to a nice hard coating.
 
Tortuga said:
This might seem like a weird question, but I'm noticing gun oil is becoming harder to come by. I used to have a metric ton of it and, over 10 years of shooting have basically depleted my supply. I'm seeing this stuff selling online for way more expensive than it used to be and I didn't see any at Walmart today when I went.

My rankings:
Rem Oil
CLP (close second)
Hoppes #9

I will also say that Remoil action degreaser did amazing work removing excess packing oil off of two magazines I got recently. I'm curious if anyone has thoughts on:

Gunzilla
Rem oil Pro3

Thoughts? Anything you think works better than other stuff?
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Just CLP for me. I’ve had issues where guns corroded with Rem oil (Ironically on a Remington 700) after a short period. Probably my fault but it’s never happened with CLP.
 
We are having our garage doors replaced with foam insulated doors, and the guys from Overhead Door Company came by to give us an estimate. They showed me how to properly lube and maintain my garage doors, and actually serviced my current doors for free. I told them I was buying the “overhead door lube” and they told me to avoid silicone. They said their product was a complete solution and when I asked if they sell it, they said “no” but gave me a can. I found it on the website:

https://overheaddoorpartsonline.com/garage-door-lubricant/

It really quieted my current doors a lot, and one of the guys told me he’d been using it on his firearm for years with good results.

I think it’s going to serve as a good backup CLP for my guns. Price is reasonable enough.
 
Old school here use LSA on most all and never any problems I don't change much anything that works well.
 
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