moving a Safe alone?

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In my 20s I moved a lightweight (350 pounds) safe on my own. The hand truck was ready for the dumpster afterwards, and I had to patch several holes in the drywall.

I wouldn't do it again even in that body. The body I have now wants to go to the hospital just from thinking about it.
 
I've got some ideas on how. But it depends heavily on the safe, where it is, and what equipment you have at your disposal. So if you can't think of a way to get it on a rolling device, and up into a vehicle from there, a professional would be best.
 
I've got some ideas on how. But it depends heavily on the safe, where it is, and what equipment you have at your disposal. So if you can't think of a way to get it on a rolling device, and up into a vehicle from there, a professional would be best.
I had the delivery guy put it in the garage, the shipping L metal legs are still on it. That was 3 years ago. I kindda just left it there and put guns in it.
 
I've got some ideas on how. But it depends heavily on the safe, where it is, and what equipment you have at your disposal. So if you can't think of a way to get it on a rolling device, and up into a vehicle from there, a professional would be best.
I can buy anything tool related. Was thinking of a appliance mover??? Kidda want to bring it in my reloading room. on the same level as the garage, no stairs, but was recently remodeled.

should I just leave it there? and build a cabinet around it?
 
I can buy anything tool related. Was thinking of a appliance mover??? Kidda want to bring it in my reloading room. on the same level as the garage, no stairs, but was recently remodeled.

should I just leave it there? and build a cabinet around it?

Well, you could always try levering it up onto blocks of increasing size until you can slip a solid 4-wheeled cart under it. Then lever up and remove the blocks.

Roll it where you want it, and repeat the process in reverse.
 
Well, you could always try levering it up onto blocks of increasing size until you can slip a solid 4-wheeled cart under it. Then lever up and remove the blocks.

Roll it where you want it, and repeat the process in reverse.
it still has the shipping legs bolted on the bottom of the safe. I was thinking about cutting a hole in the garage wall, and move it into the reloading room. I’m good with dry wall and it would be easy
 
Well, you could always try levering it up onto blocks of increasing size until you can slip a solid 4-wheeled cart under it. Then lever up and remove the blocks.

Roll it where you want it, and repeat the process in reverse.
I can tip it to move it. like walking a barrel
 
it still has the shipping legs bolted on the bottom of the safe. I was thinking about cutting a hole in the garage wall, and move it into the reloading room. I’m good with dry wall and it would be easy

I don't know what the shipping legs are. Do they have wheels?

You could take down a wall to move it. Is that a forever decision?
 
Wrong above I think has it right :). Pallet jack if that fits the space.

How heavy is it? I have moved them alone but not far nor up/down stairs. But, they weren't 1500lbs or anything like that either.
Strap dolly is a big help! Tip it back and then keep it balanced, the dolly has all the weight IF you can tip it back and then control it.

Or, a heavy duty moving dolly to go under it is an option if the path is level. Have also used wood dowels to roll it on and have heard of guys using golf balls (lots of them to spread the weight out).

A 2nd pair of hands is a BIG help though if possible.
 
I moved my safe taking the door off the hinges and moving that by hand. Then the carcass I tilted onto a 4 caster furniture mover and wheeled it into place and shoved it off. The hard part was lining up the door back on the hinge pins by myself.
 
I moved my safe taking the door off the hinges and moving that by hand. Then the carcass I tilted onto a 4 caster furniture mover and wheeled it into place and shoved it off. The hard part was lining up the door back on the hinge pins by myself.
my back hurts just thinking about that! I fitted a gate myself, had to make a V wench from pulleys and a folding ladder
 
Why not just cut the hole as if you were going to just fit it into the wall by just a few inches into the reloading room. Finish the wall around the safe and then build an enclosure around the safe protruding into the garage.
This could be done as a super custom installation showing off your dry wall expertise and save space in the reloading room. The protrusion into the garage will be less than what you have now. Win- win all the way around.

Smiles,
 
Last year I moved two safes to a new location in my place by myself. One was a Rhino at 850#, the other a Ft Knox at #1350. Those are empty weights. Entirely doable depending on your skill level. One I had to move from a barn where it had been stored unused since I bought it,carried it on the forks of a small tractor. Just about the weight limit but it worked. The steep grade was the worst of it. Once deposited on the floor it was relatively easy. The big one I had to move from one room to another. It was bolted to the slab so had to get it above the anchor bolts to free it up, Judicious use of levers and blocks sufficed. I was going to use a pallet jack ( my local hardware store offered me one to use if needed, gratis) to move it but chose instead to lay 1/2x1/2 steel bars on the floor, lowered it onto them, and skidded it about twelve feet, then made a U-turn through a doorway (same method), and then back along another wall about 15 feet to the slot I left for it between the other safe and the ammo cabinet. About halfway through the operation my wife got home and just rolled her eyes as always and said *** are you doing!. But it slid right into place with a bit of coaxing and a big bar. No damage to any walls, safes, or egos. But I a have been a builder, fabricator, and machinist my whole life so this sort of thing does not intimidate me, just presents a challenge....
Safe in its new home, pun intended!! DCP_4490.JPG
 
Why not just cut the hole as if you were going to just fit it into the wall by just a few inches into the reloading room. Finish the wall around the safe and then build an enclosure around the safe protruding into the garage.
This could be done as a super custom installation showing off your dry wall expertise and save space in the reloading room. The protrusion into the garage will be less than what you have now. Win- win all the way around.

Smiles,
that’s the best idea ever!
 
Last year I moved two safes to a new location in my place by myself. One was a Rhino at 850#, the other a Ft Knox at #1350. Those are empty weights. Entirely doable depending on your skill level. One I had to move from a barn where it had been stored unused since I bought it,carried it on the forks of a small tractor. Just about the weight limit but it worked. The steep grade was the worst of it. Once deposited on the floor it was relatively easy. The big one I had to move from one room to another. It was bolted to the slab so had to get it above the anchor bolts to free it up, Judicious use of levers and blocks sufficed. I was going to use a pallet jack ( my local hardware store offered me one to use if needed, gratis) to move it but chose instead to lay 1/2x1/2 steel bars on the floor, lowered it onto them, and skidded it about twelve feet, then made a U-turn through a doorway (same method), and then back along another wall about 15 feet to the slot I left for it between the other safe and the ammo cabinet. About halfway through the operation my wife got home and just rolled her eyes as always and said *** are you doing!. But it slid right into place with a bit of coaxing and a big bar. No damage to any walls, safes, or egos. But I a have been a builder, fabricator, and machinist my whole life so this sort of thing does not intimidate me, just presents a challenge....
Safe in its new home, pun intended!!View attachment 997123
Wow! I got a feeling you enjoyed the challenge.
 
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