A question for the Old Guards in reloading.

For the OP, While I didn't read all the other posts, I've been reloading since the early 90's, have both progressive (Dillon SDB) and single stage (RCBS JR3) presses. Since you aren't shooting any semi-autos, you don't need a progressive and a single stage is OK, but I think you will be happier and enjoy reloading more using a turrent press where you don't have swap and adjust dies. Look at the Lyman Brass Smith All-American 8-Station Turret Press. (Midway has it on sale cheap.) It has the plenty of strength for rifle reloading and can use any dies. I've read the inexpensive Lee presses have to much play in them for rifle reloading. I just finished reloading 2 dozen 45 Colt rounds (for the first time) on my single stage, and I'm thinking this press might be a nice addition to my press collection.

CaptHank said:

My office, houses all of my equipment for reloading and gun cleaning. Spending 31 years in a chemical laboratory and having OCD keeps my area safe and clean. I try to make things low maintenance, notice powder chargers for each different powder. You only have to change the weight charged.

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I am green with envy. I had a decent work space in my previous house with my previous wife, but in my dinky townhouse with my current wife, my reloading bench is a 4th of the space I once had.

Byla said:

I've read the inexpensive Lee presses have to much play in them for rifle reloading.

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Loaded on my inexpensive Lee Turret.

Issue iron sights, as-issued 80 year old bolt action battle rifle.


That's a Sako Finn, not a tula...

And, these are shot with eyes in their 7th decade.

200 yards, same rifle. Shot this just yesterday. Fuzzy pic, but you get the idea.

Loaded on my inexpensive Lee Turret.
200 yds, iron sights.10 shots.


That's a 99-2x. Them flyers are killing me.

Y-T71 said:

Got a set of Midway calipers 30 years ago that seemed to have worked well.

I ain't building parts for the space program though...

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Calipers are not really the right tool to use for precision measurements but they are a hell of a lot cheaper than a box of micrometers. This set cost more than my first few vehicles.



That said, they are perfectly adequate for most reloading measurements and you don’t have to buy the best ones, just check the ones you do get against standards in the range you wish to measure.



Same advice others were giving about check weights and scales.

jmorris said:

Calipers are not really the right tool to use for precision measurements but they are a hell of a lot cheaper than a box of micrometers. This set cost more than my first few vehicles.

View attachment 1086395

That said, they are perfectly adequate for most reloading measurements and you don’t have to buy the best ones, just check the ones you do get against standards in the range you wish to measure.

View attachment 1086396

Same advice others were giving about check weights and scales.

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3 or 4 years ago I saw a box of calipers (just like that box) for sale at the flea market. Guy wanted $250 for the box.

I couldn't get him down to $200, so I left them there.

I am using the same RCBS Rockchucker Master Kit that my father bought in 1975. I have added dies, some new reloading trays and some measuring equipment (inexpensive digital calipers with a good set as back up) and case prep tools over the years. I have the original 10-10 Scale but use a simpler Ohio’s 5-0-5. I have a digital scale for quick checks of things like bullets and loaded case comparison. Basically the same kit is available today, priming system has changed but still a good quality set that can load just about anything. A great system to learn on, develop loads and make good safe and accurate ammunition. For when I was shooting competition I used a Dillon Square Deal B. Still have it, was faster, I like the RCBS better as speed is not my priority.
The thing is if you mostly shoot and load for pistol you don’t need a whole lot. Accuracy is very much about repeatability in components as it is about preparation and consistency in the reloading process. Nothing wrong with simple.
I agree with most of the comments about measuring devices and calipers. A good set of calipers is needed on the bench but I am not the guy to tell you what type of price. A set that reads easily and accurately is what works for me. But good case prep and OAL is important.
Powder measurement is generally thrown for pistol as tiny variations mean little if everything else is consistent. If I need to be super precise I throw low and trickle up. This is the way I do every rifle round I produce. Still the same RCBS product that came with the kit.
I have been loading for over 40 years, I have made mistakes often, but it was never the fault of my equipment. Unless high volume is needed the current RCBS Master Kit will work as well as it has for me. It a great system to learn on as well. Break down the steps to understand what is going on. It will provide everything you need to get started except a set of calipers. Anything else you add will be a matter of preference and an upgrade.

Added Note: Don’t waste money on anything but carbide dies. Just the way to go!

Hooda Thunkit said:

Loaded on my inexpensive Lee Turret.

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I stand corrected. I thought about getting the basic Lee Turret for my (Lee dies) 45 Auto Rim and Colt loading, $115 at Midway is chump change when you consider the current price of ammo.

wcwhitey said:

Added Note: Don’t waste money on anything but carbide dies. Just the way to go!

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+1 on using carbide dies. I was going to mention it in my initial post but got distracted.

Byla said:

I stand corrected. I thought about getting the basic Lee Turret for my (Lee dies) 45 Auto Rim and Colt loading, $115 at Midway is chump change when you consider the current price of ammo.

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No problem amigo

A bit of unsolicited advice regarding the Lee Turret: Spend the extra coin and get the Lee Classic Cast Turret.

Cast iron base, etc. It's worth the money.

Hooda Thunkit said:

3 or 4 years ago I saw a box of calipers (just like that box) for sale at the flea market. Guy wanted $250 for the box.

I couldn't get him down to $200, so I left them there.

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Holy smokes! If you are talking about those outside micrometers, talk about a missed opportunity, looks like they don’t even sell them as a complete single set anymore. You have to buy 0-12 then 13-24




Then again anyone offering them for $250 knows they are so hot they would burn your hands.

I would love to see how they are made. The show, "How It's Made", should look into this.

jmorris said:

Holy smokes! If you are talking about those outside micrometers, talk about a missed opportunity, looks like they don’t even sell them as a complete single set anymore. You have to buy 0-12 then 13-24

View attachment 1086442
View attachment 1086443

Then again anyone offering them for $250 knows they are so hot they would burn your hands.

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Yep, that big double box is what he had.

Honestly, I really had no use for them, but as a former automotive machinist and heavy mechanic I thought they were worth having.

Don't know if it was hot merchandise; it looked like the guy was selling an entire home shop. He told me it was a relative that died.

Who knows.

Hooda Thunkit said:

3 or 4 years ago I saw a box of calipers (just like that box) for sale at the flea market. Guy wanted $250 for the box.

I couldn't get him down to $200, so I left them there.

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What???? no man! don’t say that. my heart hurts over $50

KansasTrapper77 said:

Now you guys have me wondering about concentricity haha.

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I'm one that believes in concentric ammo. When I started checking it I found the reason for the fliers that I was manfully taking the blame for! But you need a fairly accurate rifle before working about it. How accurate? I can't really say. Roughly you can see .003 or so runout with the naked eye when you roll a cartridge across a flat surface. And that will show up on a target. But thats with an accurate rifle, not a 1-1/2 inch off the shelf factory rifle. A concentricity gauge will help you find the step in your procedure thats causing the problem. But the tool would be way down the list of things that I would buy.

I saw mention of arbor presses. I don't recommend these for new loaders. At some point after neck sizing you will have trouble chambering rounds and you will need to full length size.

Kind of late to the game here buy ask 1000 reloaders and get 1000 unique answers. There are some thimgs that are must haves like a press and dies if you are going to load more than one caliber but there are many colors (manufacturers) that all work well to do the job. Some are more commonly used due to cost or features. That said, look for what you feel is a good deal and jump in. In reloading you need to learn how to reload good and consistent ammo before you step up your game to need lots of other tools to build better rounds. Seldom what you start with will be the end all be all. Like anything else you take up, getting there is at least half the fun. My one take for you is become good at record keeping so you don't waste components constantly reinventing the wheel, so to speak. It will be good to come back in the future and find what load worked best when you run out of a batch of custom ammo or a certain propellant. Also label each batch so you will know what it is when you unearth a couple mystery bags 15 years later. Ask me how I figured this out LOL.
Pay attention and don't forget to have fun doing it.

PS Don't dismiss any used gear you may find. It is really hard to destroy reloading gear without actually trying. Also some of the older gear is better than new production (beam scales for example).

Byla said:

For the OP, While I didn't read all the other posts, I've been reloading since the early 90's, have both progressive (Dillon SDB) and single stage (RCBS JR3) presses. Since you aren't shooting any semi-autos, you don't need a progressive and a single stage is OK, but I think you will be happier and enjoy reloading more using a turrent press where you don't have swap and adjust dies. Look at the Lyman Brass Smith All-American 8-Station Turret Press. (Midway has it on sale cheap.) It has the plenty of strength for rifle reloading and can use any dies. I've read the inexpensive Lee presses have to much play in them for rifle reloading. I just finished reloading 2 dozen 45 Colt rounds (for the first time) on my single stage, and I'm thinking this press might be a nice addition to my press collection.


I am green with envy. I had a decent work space in my previous house with my previous wife, but in my dinky townhouse with my current wife, my reloading bench is a 4th of the space I once had.

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I agree regarding a turret press. I use my T7 like a single stage, but with the convenience of merely rotating the tool head when switching to the next step.

My two brother started with a LEE loader and went from there. I actually have a RCBS rock chucker for really had things, a LEE turret press, and an new Hornady lock n load, that I am still trying to figure out.
My oldest brother who passed away in March started with a Lee loader for 7 mm mauser and 303 british, about 1967. He eventually graduated to the hornaday lock n load press about 3 years ago.
My other brother started loading with a lee loader in 30-30 about 1972. I never used a lee loader, only started when stationed in Kodiak , Alaska, as ammo was hard to come by. That was in 1976.
Those two brothers of mine swear the ammo they loaded with the lee loaded was quality ammo, and taught them a lot. Like some of the others have said , start with a good reloading manual, My two brothers and I both started with a lyman manual. Mine was the 1976 version. Only problem with those old manuals is the powder listed in them May not be around now. You need good powder scale, and believe it or not the old lee powder scoops do a pretty fair job. Need quality brass, primers, and bullets, and good powder. The rest is just following directions. Also need a good deburring tool. A good case trimmer helps, but usually is after you get set up.
Lee Pro 1000 progressive press works pretty well for pistols, but can not be used for rifles. Is why I went to the Hornady lock n load, works for both pistols and rifles.

I do have a starret caliper, I saved from my machinst tool box I had when I took a machine shop course here and got my certificate as a machinest

Late to the party as usual, but three things I don’t think have been mentioned:

1. Good lighting. In addition to the light on the ceiling, I have two additional lights aimed at my press, one from each side. One is an Ott light which provides natural color. Someday you will fumble something and more light helps.

2. A roll of wide masking tape or duct tape. Use a strip to pick up loose powder and primers. If you haven’t spilled anything yet, you haven’t been reloading long.

3. A case gauge for finished cartridges. Once in a while Maxwell’s demons show up and a split case gets through all inspections, but the round won’t chamber. When I was competing I gauged every round taken to a match. You won’t find many bad ones, but gauging each round saves tears, gnashing of teeth, rending garments.

J-Bar said:

2. A roll of wide masking tape or duct tape.

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In every room of the house.
If I didn't have at least one roll of duct tape in easy reach at all times I'd have to give up my redneck card.

A caliper, I prefer manual to digital.
A nice heavy single stage press.
A Forster manual trimmer with whatever pilots etc you will need.
Good dies, mostly any manufacturer, I use RCBS and Lee.
A balance beam and trickler and a small digital scale to cross check. I do like the Intellidropper from Franklin Armory. It replaces the before mentioned items.
A tumbler with media for cleaning up your brass.
Case deburrer, cheap and has inside and outside cutter.
Several reloading manuals, get the Lyman first.
Primer pocket reamer by Sinclair for small primer pockets to remove crimp from some mil cases.
A powder throw like RCBS or Lyman, of course would not need with the Intellidropper.
Go to Ammoseek.com for components if you don't have access.
Oh and a primer pocket inside case deburrer tool from RCBS etc.
Case lube and pad and neck brush.
If you need to anneal bottleneck cases to soften them up you can always use the old fashion method of using a propane torch and a pan of water method. Its always worked for me.

I'm sure there is more but you can ask a million questions on here and get good data from all these guys.

GeoDudeFlorida said:

In every room of the house.
If I didn't have at least one roll of duct tape in easy reach at all times I'd have to give up my redneck card.

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Wait...they give out cards?

Around here we just write it on our hands...

J-Bar said:

Late to the party as usual, but three things I don’t think have been mentioned:

1. Good lighting. In addition to the light on the ceiling, I have two additional lights aimed at my press, one from each side. One is an Ott light which provides natural color. Someday you will fumble something and more light helps.

2. A roll of wide masking tape or duct tape. Use a strip to pick up loose powder and primers. If you haven’t spilled anything yet, you haven’t been reloading long.

3. A case gauge for finished cartridges. Once in a while Maxwell’s demons show up and a split case gets through all inspections, but the round won’t chamber. When I was competing I gauged every round taken to a match. You won’t find many bad ones, but gauging each round saves tears, gnashing of teeth, rending garments.

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I mentioned good lighting in my 1st post but it should be reinforced.

Gotta see your powder charges and you'd be surprised how sensitive your eyes will be to consistency and, possibly a potential dangerous situation in short order with good lighting.

Tape is something I hadn't considered as part of a list but, you're right, helps with little spills and finding a lost primer.

To me, case gauges are a very personal choice.

I do have quality gauges for everything I load for but, truth is, unless it's difficult to get to it because of a specific firearm design, I make up "dummy" rounds and use my firearms chamber.

I'm not shooting my reloads out of a gauge, I'm shooting them out of a firearm(s) barrel; MY firearms barrel, and since I cast and PC my own, the gauge doesn't really tell me anything about the added tolerance of powder coating.

Many times, I have to adjust my OAL (and powder charge) to get proper chambering.
Something a gauge wouldn't detect (especially with notoriously short leades like many CZ pistols)

Hooda Thunkit said:

Wait...they give out cards?

Around here we just write it on our hands...

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LOL!! We issue cards made of duct tape. It lasts longer than hands in these parts.
Before there was 3-D printing we had JB Weld and duct tape. If you couldn't make the part you needed with them, you didn't really need it.

GeoDudeFlorida said:

Before there was 3-D printing we had JB Weld and duct tape. If you couldn't make the part you needed with them, you didn't really need it.

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And baling wire. Don't forget the baling wire.

And, for our Northern friends, it's pronounced whaaar.

Not Why-r.

Hooda Thunkit said:

And baling wire. Don't forget the baling wire.

And, for our Northern friends, it's pronounced whaaar.

Not Why-r.

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Yup! That cost me a demerit, fer shur.

Talking about things that you gotta have or don't want around reloading rooms, anything that makes an open flame is a no-no. By the same token I've got fire extinguishers inside and outside the room where I store my reloading powders. Won't do any good to fight a powder fire - likely just blow it around make things worse - the fire extinguishers are to put out what the powder sets on fire. It's an accelerant, after all.