Lee 6000 press

Nevermind

LiveLife said:

And when the shellplate carrier is below the twist of the index rod, shellplate is held captive by the index pin through the shellplate holes so gears cannot move and damage the teeth.

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After proper measurement/inspection, I totally agree.

The clutch cup is still held on the gear by the friction to the index rod on the cup and just the upward movement disengages the clutch. Without the index pin, dummies' like me, would be manually rotating the shell plate with our paw and thus possibly damaging the clutch/gear.

Because slight shell plate rotation is needed to remove some cases in some stations the index pin is mandatory for reasons you stated to prevent, me, from rotating the plate to remove a case.

Glad experienced guys like you are around to keep us straightened out.

GD

Gillie Dog said:

Glad experienced guys like you are around to keep us straightened out.

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+1, 2, & 3 on the help we all get here!!! Great job @LiveLife in explaining some of the inner workings of these presses. I too, think that the design is very simple and that reality should provide additional longevity to many of the plastic parts Lee uses in their presses (specifically Pro 4000). I also think that the more robust nature of the Six Pack should also provide added longevity to that specific press. The more I research it, coupled with the information shared here, will definitely accelerate my purchase!!!

Thanks to all for your help and wisdom!!! A great resource for all of us!!! God Bless!!!

Setting up my Six Pack. What should I use on the main shaft for lube?

Thanks

trixter said:

Setting up my Six Pack. What should I use on the main shaft for lube?

Thanks

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Anything slippery, really.
I use 3-n-1 SAE30 oil on my ABLP/PRO 4000 and Single stage press rams and joints just because I have it handy. Some people use a little grease, or Hoppes oil, or motor oil, or whatever gun lube you have handy, or ...
The important thing is to wipe it clean and lube it once in a while.

When it gets dirty, I'll use some CLP to clean it out, wipe it clean with a paper towel and then reapply some oil.

Got my SPP configured last night, took it slow and kept my expectations low

the load I ran was 9mm w/ Hornady 115 HAP, 4.4 gn of N320...so the case is at least 2/3 full

2 issues I ran into ...

Powder being tossed out of case as shell plate advanced
I had to go rather slow, actually really slow, as the shell plate twisted around the indexing rod
any tricks, besides going really slow, to get a smoother advance?
(for the record the shell plate was screwed all the way down, and the center hex screw was snugged)

I know for the dillon 550 they have kits with lighter springs for the index ball, and non-steel balls to help smooth the indexing, so it doesn't slam the bottom of the shell plate as it advances


Next
I bought a Mini Mr Bullet Feeder, I read the directions a couple times, believe I got it set up correctly
Their instructions say to test w/ 5 or 6 bullets in the die, and I got it to drop bullets into a case like that w/o issue

I partly loaded bullet feed tube turret - 3 of the 6 tubes, but once I started reloading progressively, it dropped some times, but there were a few where the bullet didn't drop onto the case. As suggested by Mr BF instructions I tried turning the die in another 1/4 turn, but didn't really help. I took the bullet turret off and ran w/ just 5 or 6 bullets in the die, and it feed every time. I did measure the cases, and most were within 10 or 12 thou in length, how finicky is the Mr BF Mini die to dropping. Any tricks I'm missing?

trdjohn said:

Got my SPP configured last night, took it slow and kept my expectations low

the load I ran was 9mm w/ Hornady 115 HAP, 4.4 gn of N320...so the case is at least 2/3 full

2 issues I ran into ...

Powder being tossed out of case as shell plate advanced
I had to go rather slow, actually really slow, as the shell plate twisted around the indexing rod
any tricks, besides going really slow, to get a smoother advance?
(for the record the shell plate was screwed all the way down, and the center hex screw was snugged)

I know for the dillon 550 they have kits with lighter springs for the index ball, and non-steel balls to help smooth the indexing, so it doesn't slam the bottom of the shell plate as it advances


Next
I bought a Mini Mr Bullet Feeder, I read the directions a couple times, believe I got it set up correctly
Their instructions say to test w/ 5 or 6 bullets in the die, and I got it to drop bullets into a case like that w/o issue

I partly loaded bullet feed tube turret - 3 of the 6 tubes, but once I started reloading progressively, it dropped some times, but there were a few where the bullet didn't drop onto the case. As suggested by Mr BF instructions I tried turning the die in another 1/4 turn, but didn't really help. I took the bullet turret off and ran w/ just 5 or 6 bullets in the die, and it feed every time. I did measure the cases, and most were within 10 or 12 thou in length, how finicky is the Mr BF Mini die to dropping. Any tricks I'm missing?

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You can find a weaker spring and nylon ball at any hardware or farm store that has odd hardware.
Knowing that Lee uses inch hardware, I'm sure that ball is an inch size like 1/4 or 5/16 or 3/8...
I know you can find a lighter spring, but the nylon/POM ball maybe not, so a lighter spring alone could solve your problem.
jmo,
.

Tilos said:

Knowing that Lee uses inch hardware, I'm sure that ball is an inch size like 1/4 or 5/16 or 3/8.

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Just disassembled the shellplate carrier top/bottom covers and measured the detent ball at .375" so it's 3/8".

LiveLife said:

Just disassembled the shellplate carrier top/bottom covers and measured the detent ball at .375" so it's 3/8".

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Thanks
With the shot pin locating the shell plate, that ball and spring seems to be redundant/not needed.
If I had a 6000, I'd take out the ball/spring and run it to see if it stopped the snapping/powder loss.
that's just me though,

.

LiveLife said:

Just disassembled the shellplate carrier top/bottom covers and measured the detent ball at .375" so it's 3/8".

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The one sold for Dillon's is a Torlon 3/8" ball. Sold at sail boat shops for "traveling cars" for 50 cents to one dollar each.

GD

Tilos said:

Thanks
With the shot pin locating the shell plate, that ball and spring seems to be redundant/not needed.
If I had a 6000, I'd take out the ball/spring and run it to see if it stopped the snapping/powder loss.
that's just me though,

.

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Once above the indexing pin the spring and ball hold shell plate location so case lines up with die(s) and not move during travel to get there and back down.

GD

trdjohn said:

Powder being tossed out of case as shell plate advanced
I had to go rather slow, actually really slow, as the shell plate twisted around the indexing rod
any tricks, besides going really slow, to get a smoother advance?

Click to expand...

An index rod with the 60 degree twist in it which is much longer would do it, slow down shell plate rotational speed of travel, but would have to start the twist low enough to clear the completed cartridge and not hit the bullet on a die and finish twist at elevation current index rod is. For me just doing pistol would allow a long twist. Might have to make one for fun one of these days.

GD

LiveLife said:

Just disassembled the shellplate carrier top/bottom covers and measured the detent ball at .375" so it's 3/8".

Click to expand...

thanks for measuring that, been busy w/ work

Gillie Dog said:

The one sold for Dillon's is a Torlon 3/8" ball. Sold at sail boat shops for "traveling cars" for 50 cents to one dollar each.

GD

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I have the plastic ball for my 550b, so I might pop that out, measure it and if it fits test it

I'll have to keep an eye out for lighter spring in that length too

So I spun on the 12L shell plate for grendel size cases. I left the retainer ring in, filled the 5 case slots and manually indexed it. Seems like w/ that size case rim you could run the press. I didn't put in any of my grendel dies, so maybe during production, you may have to remove the ring?

Pro tip: if you lightly press the driver clutch cup upward to catch the driven clutch spines, you can spin the shell plates off/on pretty quickly after you clear the index ball

PSA to pro tip...make sure you secure the handle, so the ram doesn't shoot up, slam your finger and smash it into the top of the press. That press arm is very well balanced and didn't take much of my forearm to accidentally push it the wrong direction. I had done that once on my LCT press, you'd think I would have learned my lesson.

I was going to try the grendel cases w/o the retainer ring to see if they wobble as it indexed, but after slamming my finger, I stepped away.

trdjohn said:

So I spun on the 12L shell plate for grendel size cases. I left the retainer ring in, filled the 5 case slots and manually indexed it. Seems like w/ that size case rim you could run the press. I didn't put in any of my grendel dies, so maybe during production, you may have to remove the ring?

Pro tip: if you lightly press the driver clutch cup upward to catch the driven clutch spines, you can spin the shell plates off/on pretty quickly after you clear the index ball

PSA to pro tip...make sure you secure the handle, so the ram doesn't shoot up, slam your finger and smash it into the top of the press. That press arm is very well balanced and didn't take much of my forearm to accidentally push it the wrong direction. I had done that once on my LCT press, you'd think I would have learned my lesson.

I was going to try the grendel cases w/o the retainer ring to see if they wobble as it indexed, but after slamming my finger, I stepped away.

Click to expand...

So, I lift carrier up off the index pin after loosening the drive bolt and just lightly hold down or onto the drive bolt with right hand and spin the shell plate with the other hand going click, click across the ball.
Same idea as yours but might prevent smashed finger.....

My guess is you are good with retainer in with that case, just measuring you will make it with a some to spare.

GD

Any problems with the priming system so far from any of you who have one?

I'll report on that maybe tomorrow night. My Inline Fabrication quick change tool mount will be here tomorrow. I decided a bunch of remodeling of my bench and room would be stupid just to satisfy my impatience. That's why I've been silent for a few days on the press. In fact I went ahead after ordering the q.c. tool mount, and ordered another flush bench top base, to put next to the one I have........i just have too many tools.....and not an acre of bench space. So now I can mount 2 at a time if I want. So now I will have 4 tools mounted on Quick Change mounts. An RCBS APS Bench primer, my modded RCBS Summit "APP", my Lee APP, and now the Lee 6pack. I'm excited!

So what to do with the other 2 tools not mounted? I did bring in a nice horizontal file cabinet that was abandoned in one of my self storage units. I placed it as an Island in swivel-reach of my drafting stool.Gutted the file hangers in the top drawer, and will use it to store those tools, which are mounted to quickchange uppers, but "in waiting." Plus, I finally have some clear empty horizontal space! Wonder for how long.

9mmepiphany said:

Pro6k in the flush mount plate on my bench ... My first impression, while running it empty, was that it was very smooth.

yup, I filled all 6 stations ... A feature I like is that the Pro6k ejects completed rounds out the front...and there is a bracket there to hold a Akro bins; nice touch

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Congrats!

9mmepiphany said:

the throw on the handle is very long...I should have mounted it on the Ultramount and gotten it 9" higher to save my lower back.

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Grab a height adjustable office chair and it will be the perfect height.

Seriously, that's why I decided to get the Husky bench with height adjustable top so I could do both stand up and sit down reloading with infinite adjustability - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...p-with-unlimited-budget.912629/#post-12464982

LiveLife said:

Congrats!


Grab a height adjustable office chair and it will be the perfect height.

Seriously, that's why I decided to get the Husky bench with height adjustable top so I could do both stand up and sit down reloading with infinite adjustability - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...p-with-unlimited-budget.912629/#post-12464982

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My bench is 42" high.......that means for this short guy, sitting on my Drafting Stool and standing isn't that much different. (never felt the need for a high rise!)

9mmepiphany: Must be nice to live so close to Dan! I guess tomorrow is good enough....


Back 4 presses ago when I had lots of bench space!

Guess what this thing I printed today is? Hint....goes with the Lee universal 4-way.

Here is my experience so far and all I have done is set up a bare press, not a kit. Bought shell plate for 38 special, mounted with lee plate to where I previously had a classic turret. Mine came with small primer holder installed and the lee fix for the primer slider installed and had the .430 retainer ring installed. My plans station 1 resize and deprime, station 2 prime and powder, 3 RCBS powder lockout, 4 in limbo, 5 bullet insertion and 6 FCD. Take my dies out of my classic turret with old lock rings removed and try to thread them into breech bushings. That's a no go as there are so many aluminum filings on the threads nothing is going in. Pull all the bushings, extensively clean all the crud out and using a wrench on resizing die (as there is a place to wrench it) and go through each bushing to make sure I can thread the other dies. These aluminum bushings without lock screw are cheap, poorly machined and garbage compared to the quality of the old steel. They also do not have the button notch on them that the old ones had. Next I take a new Starline brass and run it though each station. Works okay a few times and then press locks up with ram about 1/2 way up. I did not have the RCBS lockout die installed. The problem, the primer pin was stuck 1/2 way up keeping the small primer holder entrapped. I was finally able to push it down and free up the press but it was really in tight. I saw nothing in the way of debris in the primer hole and had not used any powder yet. If I had forced things I would have broke it. I did the unthinkable, put a little silicon stuff on the lower part and got it so the when I pushed it up from the bottom it moved freely up and down. Now every time I am near the thing I push that up from the bottom to make sure it's free. I noted on the Lee parts site that they now have a longer primer slider and I wonder how people are to be notified as improvements come up. Also, is there a video that shows how to get into some of those lower parts? I know that people here have stripped the press and I may need to do it to update mine. Thanks all and I realize we are beta testers here but that's the way it is. So far I am still hopeful that this press will do the job. Oh, I got my press from MidSouth, great place.

9mmepiphany said:

So far the only irritation is how close
the bushing, holding the dies, are to each other. I realize I'm spoiled by my Hornady LNL and it's quarter inch between bushings, but I think it would be generous if there is 1/16" between bushing teeth on the Pro-6k

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I got used to that with my ABLP. I use Hornady lock rings on it but have to make sure they are turned in such a way the screws don't hit the die next to it.
Once they are set they can only be 180 deg out when you put them in so it's easy to just spin them 180 and re-insert them.

GW Staar said:

Guess what this thing I printed today is? Hint....goes with the Lee universal 4-way.

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Nice!

JuliettDeltaGolf, over at CastBoolits, has an unusual problem with lee's Shaker and 4-way, "I'm loading .44-40 on a Lee Loadmaster (will probably upgrade to the new Six Pack Pro soon), and for my purposes the Lee case feeders (which are universal to all their progressives) would be just fine, though I might invest in an aftermarket feeder with auto collator at some point. Problem is, the Lee case feeder tubes are just barely too small for the rims of .44-40, at roughly .515 ID and .565 OD. They'll feed .45 Colt fine with it's rim diameter of .510, but the .44-40 rim diameter is .517-.519."

So I designed something that would allow him to buy the next bigger thinwall clear tube to use in that. 5/8"-Thinwall. Lee uses the 9/16"-Thinwall for the 4-way. You can buy 36" long tubes, so $20 worth, 2 tubes, cut in half would do it. https://www.petmountain.com/product/lees-thinwall-rigid-tubing-clear

Video below shows how it turned out. (I'm fresh out of 5/8" so I used leftover scraps to test with in this video.)
The upper collator has to be changed too, (see update below)by drilling the drop holes to 5/8"..... I think there's enough material thickness in the down tube holder to do that if you cut off the star shaped protrusion at the bottom and drill in to the offset....you will be still be left with a too small mouth....so then you'd need to drill from the shaker top with a 9/16 drill to the offset to the lower hole...........Good thing Lee shakers are cheap.....since you then need an extra new one for normal cases.



UPDATE: So I tried to drill the shaker to 5/8", but it couldn't take it strength-wise, so I just cut the appendage below the pan just leaving 3/4", so the exiting inside tube stop is removed, then designed an upper tube to shaker bowl piece too, that just screws into the bottom of the shaker with that central hole. Will print the new piece Saturday morning,j(tomorrow0.....it will work screwed to the bowel using the center hole drilled out, and give the shaker a new ability to do those oversize oldie pistol calibers.....will fit old .30 caliber military rimmed rifle cases too. (using my rifle adapter also screwed on).

9mmepiphany said:

The next thing I noticed is that the throw on the handle is very long...I should have mounted it on the Ultramount and gotten it 9" higher to save my lower back. It threw me a bit as the shell plate runs counter clockwise, also that it is pretty small also...especially when containing 6 stations

I set up the dies and added a couple more to make my life easier...yup, I filled all 6 stations. I added a Lyman M-die (too impatient to make the powder through insert work) a Hornady Powder Check (because the case is too far away for me to look in), and a RCBS taper crimp die (I dislike seating and crimping in one step). I'll revisit the placement if I add a bullet feeder. I made the included Smart Lock Bushings (O-rings) work, but will likely be getting some Spline Drive Breech Lock Bushings (horizontal set screw)

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I robbed my LCT press for the Inline Fab Ergo handle, works great, and keeps the handle about 4" - 5" above where the standard handle would end up.

I'm glad you brought that up...was searching thru my reloading room stuff and found a Redding premium expanding die, don't even remember buying it! But it's like a Lyman M expanding die. The find got me thinking if I could put the Redding die in #2 to expand, then move the auto-drum to station #3...would I use a short rifle charging die in the auto drum to throw the powder then?

rotorloader said:

These aluminum bushings without lock screw are cheap, poorly machined and garbage compared to the quality of the old steel. They also do not have the button notch on them that the old ones had.

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I agree that the aluminum bushings are a step backwards, the ones that came w/ the press had a ton of aluminum "whiskers" on internal threads. Pain to brush them out. I don't think it matters as much with 9 mm, but for rifle rounds I like the internal o-ring that'll help w/ centering the case. On a single stage I put o-rings under all my locking dies, gives the die chance to center itself w/ respect to the case, and its easy to get back to correct setting.