deadeye dick
Member
I use a brass rod from a toilet bowl float.. Cheap
Probably takes up less room than a kinetic bullet puller too.My 'kit' normally has a brass knock-out rod.
Now you mention it...Probably takes up less room than a kinetic bullet puller too.
Riddle me this:
Start w/ a
5" 1911 firing a 200gr Lead Round Nose / 6.0gr Bullseye /OAL 1.215" / Shank depth 0.258"
--> 17,800 psi / 974 fps
Convert to a
5" 450 BushMaster firing that same 200gr LRN / 6.0gr Bullseye / OAL 2.107" / shank depth same 0.258"
--> 5,313 psi / 629 fps
That Bushmaster load geometry is near identical to a the situation wherein a 45 ACP bullet is driven ~ 9 tenths of an inch into the 1911 barrel fired w/ same 6.0gr Bullseye --> totally safe outcome.
Thoughts?
.
Ol' Elmer and his friends worked on the "duplex system" - meaning front ignition via long flash tube, they called stratified powders "double duplex" to confuse foreign spies. He reported that the barrel felt cool after shooting such ammo and claimed a gain of 202 fps in .50 BMG.
BLUF: I am not in any way advocating the "interesting squib solution" method.There are simply too many unknowns with blowing squibs out with reduced charges.
Take a look at both the referenced and the included link as applied to the squib-fix discussion that started this thread:
http://www.gmdr.com/lever/lowveldata.htm
I have removed a couple such squibbs at the range by using my brass rod and light taps to push the bullet out of the forcing cone and back into the cylinder and case. The key is multiple light taps. If you pound it with a a sledge hammer you will expand the bullet and make it stick worse.No where revolvers suck is when the bullet just barely moves, to the point you can't open the gun and unload it. It is just far enough in to grab the rifling so you are not going to pound it out, and you are looking at a locked up gun with X# of live round looking at you in the face......that sucks.
What I did is long drill bit, very thin and drilled out the bullet, working larger and larger bits till the bullet was so weak I could pound it out backwards.
I have removed a couple such squibbs at the range by using my brass rod and light taps to push the bullet out of the forcing cone and back into the cylinder and case. The key is multiple light taps. If you pound it with a a sledge hammer you will expand the bullet and make it stick worse.
The light tap method is very hard for some folks to accept but it works.