Target stands

I use old real estate signs. I take out the metal sign and replace it with cardboard. The frames are tough and durable, and were made to stick in the ground. I got mine a few years back when the signs were tossed when the agent left the company. I don't know if they still do that.`

It all depends on how much you want to spend. Do you plan to buying one or make one?

I have seen guys use two sawhorses with a board on top of them.

Homemade Pvc. I have made 2 of these. I use small sand bags to keep the wind from knocking them over. They are cheap to make/replace.
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu24.htm

A metal H type. If you have welder. it is just two pieces of angle iron connected by a cross member and two furring strip holders. You still might need to weight it down to keep the wind from tipping it.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=621263

Free standing A frame type:


these are just some ideas. Do a internet search and you'll find many more examples.

I bought some 6 foot long 1"x3/4" boards (or, rip a 2x4 in half to make 2x2s) and made cross-pieces of the same stock that were 2" across. I drilled holes and bolted the pieces together to make a stand that looked like a large, block A. I use carriage bolts and wing nuts so I can break the stand down into the two legs with one cross-piece still attached to each leg (i.e., the top brace on one leg; the lower brace on the other leg).

For my base, I had some scrap treated lumber left from a project. I nailed three of them together for each base - like an oreo cookie. The center board I cut and left a hole in the middle big enough that my stand legs would fit snugly.

Here's a rough sketch: (not to scale)

View attachment 105442

If you have questions, PM me.

Q

With PVC, drill holes through the PVC. Use zip ties and tie some of the large binder clips to the pipes. Use a piece of heavy cardboard as your target base and slide it into the clips.

For the wood one, make the legs as long as you need. I cut mine to fit in my Ford Taurus. My range has recently declared that all standards need to be over 6' tall...I think 6'6"...and that's going to be a tough fit for my car. The irony is that you'll pay more for the bolts, washers & nuts than you will for the wood strips.

Q

I saw these a while back and gave them a try. Worked better than I thought, so I've since made a couple more:

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu24.htm

Q, As a fellow Taurus owner I feel your pain. I will venture to guess your a BASC member, in any case I have a solution to the problem. If you have a wooden stand, cut your stand legs in half. Install a small screen door hinge, or gate strap hinge on the outside of each leg, so that the lower section folds up parallel to the top. Install a screen door latch on the inside with the eyelet on upper half and the hook on the lower half, voillia a Taurus friendly target stand.

If you would like to see mine let me know.

RIATAC45 - now there's genius! I was trying to come up with a method of cutting the legs and then scabbing them together with a block and bolts. While I think it may have worked, it was going to be a PITA to put up & take down.

And, yes, BASC it is. I may not like the target stand deal, but it still beats driving almost an hour to the next closest place.

I'm trying to come up with a trunk-friendly way to carry a couple steel plates. I'll have to toss my idea at you some time.

Q

I also have a solution to driving the legs in the ground if you'd like to see them too.

These are the only style I build anymore for paper targets. 1X1 box tube 20X24 and the 1X2 at 17.5 outside so they will stack.

Jeffm223 said:

I saw these a while back and gave them a try. Worked better than I thought, so I've since made a couple more:

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu24.htm

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I made one like this out of 1 1/4 pvc, on the piece that holds the 1x2 I heated the end with a heat gun until it softened then stuck the 1x2 in to form it it into a rectangle the size of the 1x2, it fits snug so it won't flop back & forth in the breeze.

When you heat the plastic keep moving it around so it won't burn, wear gloves cause it stays hot for a little while after forming.

pallets work nice. You can snag them from behind any large store like wamart, lowes, home depot, etc. I also bulit one only using pvc but you have to be careful not to shoot the pvc!

MJ,

We use a 2x4 base made into an "H" shape, with the center being 2 18" pieces spaced 3/4" apart for 1x2 uprights to fit between.

Sides--2x24"
Center--2x18"

Fasten with 2x3" screws to each joint.

One stud length 2x4 will make one stand--cost $2.04.

If you want extra wind stability, you can add 2 18" end pieces, making the "H" into a box shape. We use these for USPSA and IDPA. I made a simple jig with blocks and plywood, cut the studs to length, and then had an assembly party. We made 78 stands in about 90 minutes with 2 screw guns and a lot of beer.

They've been rugged and stack very well.

Dan

I was trying to design a fairly inexpensive heavy duty stand that can be easily transported and stored for reuse.

I came up with this, it requires a few 2x4 and some bolts/nuts. real easy use.

This is my original design feel free to use/modify it anyway you like. I do welcome donations to our church if you would like to in return for this free design. All funds will go strictly to our inner youth ministry. And donations are tax deductible. If you feel so inclined you can mail a check made payable to: Iglesia Del Señor at the following address: P.O. Box 202, Bell, CA. 90201. But do not feel obligated the stand design is posted here for free for all to use.

Thank you and God bless.

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I made one like this for about $15. It packs down and stores in the car easily and was really easy to make

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu24.htm

That design could easily be modified to have a locking hinge at the base so it simply folds up instead of having to be partially disassembled for transport.

Speaking of snagging, try the corrugated plastic campaign signs. After the election, of course.
They seem to last forever and if you politely ask for them, they are usually yours. I hope that no one minds if I spray paint over the names of the opposition. I can also trade with my brother-in-law in another state so nobody gets their nose out of joint.

The two downsides to these as target stands is that the wires are not sharp enough to penetrate the hardened ground at our range, so I place them a little ways up on the berm. And on windy days, the ideas in the above posts are much superior.

If you're not a very capable carpenter or metal fabricator you might try something like these that I made out of 1.5" PVC pipe.









The uprights are furring strips. You can staple cardboard target backers or cardboard targets to them. The second one can hold three targets/backers for friend/foe drills - two foes, one friend or the opposite. If you need to stake them down drill holes in the PVC and drive long nails or lightweight tent pegs through them.

Rail Driver said:

That design could easily be modified to have a locking hinge at the base so it simply folds up instead of having to be partially disassembled for transport.

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Agreed. You would just have to cut back the "U" bracket at the bottom a little, so it would clear the base on the way down.

My original design, which has been changed, of course. No photos of the new style, but very similar. This one is too tall, and the 2x2's made it too flimsy, it would flop in the wind. My new design is shorter, 48", which puts the bullets lower into the berm for fewer ricochets, and more stability in the wind.

Basically, take a standard 2x4 stud and cut it in half for two 48" side rails. Cut two more pieces 21" and screw/nail to the side rails, for a 24"x24" frame. Cover this with a 24"x24" piece of cardboard. This is the upright frame. Three standard studs will make two of these.

Then build a base that the upright frame's legs will fit into and it's done. Make the legs of the base long enough for it to be stable in the wind.

The original 2x2 frame, which was too tall and floppy.





The old base, new style base fits 2x4 legs front to back, not sideways like this.



One of the new 2x4 upright frames against the old style 2x2. Much shorter and more stable, bullets hit lower on the berm too.



They work great! Carry the base and frame out to the berm, drop the base, jam the frame into it, and git after it. Wood is cheap and 2x4's can take a lot of stray hits before they croak. 2x2's and PVC will die very quickly from stray hits, ask me how I know.

I need to make a few new ones and take some photos of 'em. I've made some of these in the past and donated them to my gun club too.

rondog said:

... PVC will die very quickly from stray hits, ask me how I know.

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If you're hitting the PVC on my target stands you need to stop shooting!

OK, here's some photos of Uncle Rondog's Target Stand, version 2.0. Simple as it can be. I'm going to make a few of these, and a couple more that are 2'x4' instead of 2'x2'. Just like this only twice as wide. We can put more targets on the 2'x4' size and have to change them less often. Or dedicate certain targets to certain guns, etc. My gun club has steel bases already that the 2'x2' frames will drop right into, so I don't have to make more bases. I also plan to make a 2'x4' frame with a plywood back, that's made for putting a couple dozen clay pigeons on.