GP100 spring kit.

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3leggeddog

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Hello, I just got the wolf spring kit, can any one tell me what weight is the stock hammer + Trigger set at ? I got a 9, 10, 12 hammer spring and a 10 + 8lb trigger spring. Which [2] should I used to drop 2lbs on each one??? A big thanks for your help!!!
 
I used the 10 and the 8 springs in my GP100 and my trigger pull improved a lot while maintaining reliability. Highly recommend it.
 
I thought the stock springs were 14 and 12 but I could be mistaken.

I used the 10 and 8 but I got a couple ftf so I changed the hammer spring to a 12 and it has been good to go since then.

Trigger pull is definitely improved with lighter springs.
 
Per Wolff the stock mainspring is 14 lbs and stock trigger return one is 12 lbs. Some over on one of the Ruger Forums maintain as of late the stock trigger return spring is now 10 lbs. a seperate mainspring in 11 lb configuration and 10 lb trigger return should give you what you seek. On my GP I use the 9 lb mainspring and 8 lb trigger return but it was tuned by a gunsmith beforehand. I have no misfires but this is a function partly of smoothing the internals and the various tolerances in a particular gun. Before the spring change DA pull was about 12 lbs and SA about 4 and 1/2. Now, the DA is 7.25-7.4 lbs and SA 2.5 lbs.
 
GP 100 springs

I went with a 12lb main + the 8lb trigger. I can sure feel the difference in the trigger,especially from the cock position! The paper targets will catch hell now!!!!!:)
 
Well the later GPs came from the factory with a 10# trigger & 14# hammer

I recommend the 10# trigger for positive trigger reset & 12# hammer .

For consistent trigger set & weights I also recommend you shim the hammer & trigger I leave .003" clearance.

Also when ya shim the hammer you`ll see a decernable difference in hammer slap because it`s not draggin on the frame !

If trigger is "gritty" smooth the hammer strut & sturips sharp edges , then remove the trigger from the housing & take a 13/64 drill bit , chuck it up backwards ,then with lappin compound lap the spring well until smooth .

This is the only place I use a synthetic grease ,everything else gets a bit of hoppes gun oil.

I also sell disassembly tool for the GPs , it makes it easier & safer for both partys !!

Popper-1.jpg
 
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Thanks for everyones help, I did shine up the trigger a little,just lightly! I need to go to the range a few times before I even think about doing anything else...I dont want a Hair trigger.
 
As I understand, the GP100 and SP101 are virtually identical, internally
( please correct me if that's wrong). If so,can I use a spring left over from a Wolff SP101 spring kit, in my GP100 ?

(this seems related to me, apologies if it constitutes a hi-jacking:) )
 
I also sell disassembly tool for the GPs , it makes it easier & safer for both partys !!

I have one of GP100man's disassembly tools and it is most definitely worth the price. Works on the SP and GP both.

I left the trigger return spring alone and went with the 10# hammer. That set up feels good to me and has never had a FTF.
 
Drail
Member



Join Date: January 17, 2008
Posts: 1,120 What exactly did you do to "shine up the trigger"?

Hello,forgive me for not knowing the all the correct part names ,But I'll try to answer your question. Once the trigger assebly is out ,look for any sharp/ burred edges -like on the transfer bar + Pawl that may drag on things. There also is 2 parts in trigger main body [small-like a shear set up] that i notice a VERY mild shine . these 2 points I polish up some more . Hopes this helps.
 
I test my GPs for reliability by drillin out a few primer holes & seating CCI 400 srp & when 20 fires straight in a row then I know it`ll be 100% with any spp on the market !
 
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