Both Patrick Sweeney in his Gunsmithing book on handguns and Grant Cunningham in his revolver book have some pointers on GP 100 triggers. Grant has his own blog so you might shoot him this question--especially in regard to MIM triggers which I don't believe that either one addressed.
Picking up a ruger gp100, trigger job info?
- Thread starter scythefwd
- Start date
- Status
scythefwd
Member
boom boom, thanks for the heads up.
I've a cast trigger, so I'm not worried about it. I'm not sure getting the trigger reprofiled to fit my personal tastes is high enough on the list to go and have a spare fit to the revolver just so I can reprofile the trigger... I wont do major modifications (even ones that are purely cosmetic) unless I can reverse them..
I've a cast trigger, so I'm not worried about it. I'm not sure getting the trigger reprofiled to fit my personal tastes is high enough on the list to go and have a spare fit to the revolver just so I can reprofile the trigger... I wont do major modifications (even ones that are purely cosmetic) unless I can reverse them..
SCY,
As mentioned earlier, the processes are different & MIM is not traditionally referred to as "sintered".
If you want to blur the lines in discussing it, that's up to you.
As far as altering the cast trigger goes, I've had that done on three GPs.
The cast triggers came with sharp edges on the rear & I had those removed along with rounding the faces to meet my preferences.
I'll eventually have the same work done on two others.
The newer MIM triggers don't need either work, they have no sharp edges behind & they're more rounded up front.
Fine as they come.
At least- on this newest one here, if its representative. This is the first GP I've had with a MIM trigger.
So far, all MIM Ruger GP & SP triggers I have do not have the sharp edges, at the very least.
The SP MIM trigger isn't quite as rounded on its face, but I see no need to alter either of my two SPs that have the MIM trigger.
Denis
As mentioned earlier, the processes are different & MIM is not traditionally referred to as "sintered".
If you want to blur the lines in discussing it, that's up to you.
As far as altering the cast trigger goes, I've had that done on three GPs.
The cast triggers came with sharp edges on the rear & I had those removed along with rounding the faces to meet my preferences.
I'll eventually have the same work done on two others.
The newer MIM triggers don't need either work, they have no sharp edges behind & they're more rounded up front.
Fine as they come.
At least- on this newest one here, if its representative. This is the first GP I've had with a MIM trigger.
So far, all MIM Ruger GP & SP triggers I have do not have the sharp edges, at the very least.
The SP MIM trigger isn't quite as rounded on its face, but I see no need to alter either of my two SPs that have the MIM trigger.
Denis
Just got an email from a Ruger contact.
The rounded MIM trigger face is standard across all new GP model variations.
One benefit to the introduction of MIMs in the GP.
With that already done & the sharp rear corners eliminated, all you may want to do on a newer GP trigger-wise is either stone it a bit or let it smooth up gradually in use.
Denis
The rounded MIM trigger face is standard across all new GP model variations.
One benefit to the introduction of MIMs in the GP.
With that already done & the sharp rear corners eliminated, all you may want to do on a newer GP trigger-wise is either stone it a bit or let it smooth up gradually in use.
Denis
scythefwd
Member
D.. depends, but probably right. Its the expense of having it fitted properly by ruger that I dont know if I intend on spending.
I have an older 3-inch GP with altered trigger & de-horned hammer that had a good trigger job done.
Quite nice.
The action work was originally done as part of a light package at a custom operation.
Shortly after, it developed a hitch in its git-along on closing the cylinder caused by a factory-restricted part going bad (NOT a result of the action work).
Gun had to go back to Ruger, who promptly removed the trigger & hammer and replaced them with stock parts to return the gun to factory specs while they had it, completely undoing the action job.
Had to have that re-done locally.
Sometimes they'll leave things alone, sometimes they won't.
Denis
Quite nice.
The action work was originally done as part of a light package at a custom operation.
Shortly after, it developed a hitch in its git-along on closing the cylinder caused by a factory-restricted part going bad (NOT a result of the action work).
Gun had to go back to Ruger, who promptly removed the trigger & hammer and replaced them with stock parts to return the gun to factory specs while they had it, completely undoing the action job.
Had to have that re-done locally.
Sometimes they'll leave things alone, sometimes they won't.
Denis
At the time the "New Model" Ruger single actions were introduced the company offered a free conversion kit that would allow a transfer bar safety instalation in an older S.A.
As part of the deal the original parts were to be returned with the modified gun so if the owner decided they prefered the older style they could go back to it.
The conversions are still being done, and they are still free, but the parts that are replaced are no longer being returned.
If you have (or have had someone else) polish the internal parts, and you return the gun to Ruger for any additional work, don't expect you will see them again. You may, but it's doubtful.
Blame it on the lawyers.
As part of the deal the original parts were to be returned with the modified gun so if the owner decided they prefered the older style they could go back to it.
The conversions are still being done, and they are still free, but the parts that are replaced are no longer being returned.
If you have (or have had someone else) polish the internal parts, and you return the gun to Ruger for any additional work, don't expect you will see them again. You may, but it's doubtful.
Blame it on the lawyers.
Last edited:
scythefwd
Member
well, I went to the 8 lb trigger return spring.. HUGE diference in pull weight. I did swap out the hammer, and I intend on using the lightest one that gives me reliable ignition.. being a reloader I can use softer primers if need be. I went with the middle of the pack, the 12 lb in there right now.. That should be enough, but if not, I can always go up from there 2 levels (the 14 and the factory which is 16 lbs right?). Trigger is noticeable smoother, which is odd, must be some roughness that could be worked out but I'll leave it be for now. Much lighter, more where I like it. Its hard for me to find a handgun trigger acceptable, the trigger I spend the most time is a bench rest trigger.. so all other triggers feel horrendously heavy to me.
scythefwd
Member
good info old.. I find it acceptable at the time being.. I may get more picky or grow to like it more so I'll leave it as is for the time being.. until I see if it gets reliable ignition with cci primers at least.
- Status
