Picking up a ruger gp100, trigger job info?

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scythefwd

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Picking up a ruger gp100, stainless, 6". Doesnt even have a turn ring. I'm going to want to lighten and smooth out the trigger to butter if I can. Would love a 7-8LB DA and a 3LB SA if its possible.

I hear the wolf spring kits work wonders. That and some light stoning of the internals to remove burrs makes all the world of difference in these guns.

Does anyone have any info on what the factory trigger pulls are DA/SA and what the trigger pull weights are with the wolf kit installed (and which hammer spring you are using.. 10, 12, or 14 lb)?

Thanks for the info.

Also, anyone using the weigand no D/T scope base that would care to give an opinion? Looking to use this thing as a deer gun in VA (30-40y shots.. I'm confident I can hit with irons, but I'm more confident with a scope and I want a clean, humane kill).
 
Stock double action pulls seem to range about 10.5 to 12 lbs and single action in the 4 lb range. On my GP100 with an action job and a 8 lb trigger return spring and 9 lb mainspring the double action pull is 7.4-7.5 lbs. and single 2.75 lbs. Here are a few links to improving the trigger:

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=192926

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=192926

http://gunner777.wordpress.com/2008/08/24/ruger-gp100sp101book-of-knowledge/

on adding shims to the action:

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=133889&sid=1d0e18092f2e2f272e287b7668cdf372

on firing pin protrusion if needed:
http://rugerforum.net/gunsmithing/9...an-regarding-gp100-firing-pin-protrusion.html

http://www.thesixgunjournal.net/dialing-in-a-fixed-sight-ruger-da-the-repatriated-ruger-gp-100/

sear engagement theory:
http://rugerforum.net/gunsmithing/9...an-regarding-gp100-firing-pin-protrusion.html

evening out the trigger pull if needed:
http://rugerforum.net/ruger-double-...-trigger-job-question-multiple-threads-2.html

I don't think you will need all of them. A number of users find to get reliable double action ignition on CCI primers that they need to use the 10 lb mainspring. What works is a function of the smoothness of the action and tolerances of the individual gun. Hope this helps.
 
I use the Wolff springs in all my S&W's and Rugers. The rebound or trigger return spring is the one to change and not affect ignition (light primer strikes) Changing the main spring does very little to reduce the trigger pull.

Try just the spring first before you go stoning or polishing parts. Advantage of the Ruger is it is very easy to take apart

The Weigands mounts are the best regardless of gun you put them on.

Buy springs direct from Wolff, they make them for almost everyone as OEM parts.

For a hunting gun, leave the mainspring alone, You can get the shooter pack and experiment but I have several guns the reduced spring will work some they will not, Factory is 14 lbs

The return spring you can put the lightest one in unless you are speed shooting and your finger is faster than the return,:)

http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolvers/RUGER/GP-100/cID3/mID52/dID233
 
WARNING, it's not a good idea to stone MIM parts because they are very soft but for the hardened outer surface. If you break through the hardened exterior surface the part will fail in very short order.
 
Arch.. I wasnt aware that ruger was using MIM in their revolvers.. Everything I've heard so far was that they were using cast... Is this information out dated or incorrect?

When did they start using MIM if they do use it, this revolver may predate that change.

EDIT***

Been browsing since I posted that comment..
Yes, the Crane latch, cylinder latch, front sight. - These are the MIM parts that ruger admits to using MIM in as far back as 05/2011. The hammer and sear are about the only places I'd do polishing.. and thats very light anyways.. more about removing a bur than actually removing material across the whole surface.. 1-2 drags across a 1k grit stone usually suffices.. I'll definitely be double checking parts though before I do any stoning. Appreciate the heads up.
 
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emailed ruger about it.. they say the only parts that are MIM in the gp100 are the cylinder release and the trigger.

Thanks again for the heads up archangel
 
Just picked up a 5 inch GP. Put Wolff springs in it both 10 pounders. Leave the stoning alone IMHO. the 10 pound springs are fine and it has smoothed up considerably over about 500 rounds of 38-357 already. Just shoot...
 
scythefwd said:
emailed ruger about it.. they say the only parts that are MIM in the gp100 are the cylinder release and the trigger.

Thanks again for the heads up archangel
Click to expand...
I wasn't saying Ruger used MIM parts in the trigger assy, it was just a general warning since I know S&W does. I wasn't sure about Ruger so I made a general warning just to be safe...

Thanks for contacting Ruger and getting the correct information.
 
Ruger has been using MIM parts here & there for well over 10 years.

But, the info on surface-hardening is wrong.
That's the true non-MIM case-hardened parts like S&W used to use.

MIMs are through-hardened, there's no problem whatever in stoning Ruger's MIM parts.

Side note- the SP uses MIM trigger & hammer.
Ruger decided the MIM hammer in a GP would look too ugly, so for now they're sticking to a cast hammer in that gun.

Denis
 
I have a 5" bbl GP100 that I bought new and was made in December 2010, this was before they started using the MIM trigger. Honestly, all I did was strip the trigger group, thoroughly clean and lubricate, and install a Wolff 8 lb trigger spring and 10 lb main spring. I spent an evening of dry-firing, and it is smooth as butter and absolutely perfect.
 
About 18 months ago I got one of the last standard GPs with both cast hammer & trigger.
The one that arrived two weeks ago has the MIM trigger.

Both cast & MIM will smooth up with use, but it's entirely safe to stone either type in shortening the "natural" polishing interaction process.
Denis
 
Do not swap the trigger return spring. I installed the 8# spring and it is too slow for speed shooting. I was able to get down to an 11# hammer spring and get reliable ignition with trigger shims. However, I think it is better to leave the factory springs alone and merely polish the internals and use trigger shims.
 
You may want to shoot the gun for a while, including lots of dry firing, to see how it smooths out. I have guns with action jobs and lighter springs that aren't reliable with all ammo. I bought a GP100 5" about six months ago and I dry fired it 1,000 rounds before I shot it. After a couple of trips to the range and about 200 rounds fired, it is almost as smooth as several well worn S&W's that I also shoot. I have had two GP100's and they both have smooth actions without any modification. I think Ruger does a better job in recent years, as far as smoothness of actions. See how yours actually works before modifying it unnecessarily.
 
Smoothing the surfaces does help lighten the pull, both DA & SA.
Denis
 
Exactly Dennis. But even that may not be enough for me.... I'm a self admitted trigger snob. Heaviest trigger in the safe is 3.5 lbs, and that's on a milsurp rifle. I really like my handgun triggers to be 3lbs or a hair less.
 
Good luck with it.
Newest one here's slightly over 4.5, it'll lighten some with wear & I'll probably let it age naturally. :)
I don't change springs on GPs, I require absolute reliability.
Denis
 
My first GP100 had light strikes with a mainspring of a now-forgotten brand, so I re-installed the factory mainspring. The slightly lighter trigger return spring is still in place. I did stone the surfaces VERY lightly, and changed NO angles. I wanted absolute reliability. I carried this one, and had to shoot it once for blood.

Since that first one, I learned to cherry-pick my DA Ruger revolvers, because some of them need no work whatsoever, just a bit of dry and live fire to smooth things nicely. The one exception was my 5" GP100, as it was from a limited run, with one at the dealer, and no more at the distributor. It has a gritty trigger stroke, which I may remedy someday, unless a collector persuades me to part with it when I am in a down-sizing mood.
 
The trigger action on every GP100 is different from one gun to the next. That is why most aftermarket trigger springs are sold as a kit of various weight springs. The shooter can experiment and see which works best for their particular revolver, and will give them the results they want for the intended use of the revolver. In my case, the 8 lb trigger return spring worked very well. It resets as fast as I can possibly release pressure on the trigger. Having said that, my GP100 isn't my personal protection revolver, and the ones that serve that purpose remain intact with all the factory original springs.
 
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