I got a chance today to play a bit with the capsules.
I am shootin X-Ring rubber bullets from my 7.5" stainless ROA.
I first tried my 5.5" FS stainless but the capsule would not thread into the cylinder.(Cylinder threads obviously need chased.) Let me correct that. I tried only one chamber and when the capsule would not thread in I stopped there and went to another gun.
All capsules thread right into the every chamber of this gun with ease.The threads of the cylinder were already lubed with Anti Sieze but I see that you also lubed the threads of the capsules.
The priming tool is perfectly crafted and works flawlessly.
I find it, ( for myself), very difficult to 'inject; just one primer at a time tho when the tool is 'loaded'. Most likely it is my poor vision that creates this issue.So, what i do is just pick up one primer at a time and inject it.Now, comes the very 'tricky' part. That is, keeping the primimg tool perfectly in line with the capsule opening so that the primer goes straight on axis with the tool and the capsule. Your work is so precise that there is no margin at all for error here. I think that maybe a slight chamfer, if possible, at the mouth of the capsule could remedy this.
What i do tho is, after i pick up the primer with the tool, i push it about half way out of the primer tool so that i can 'set' the primer into the opening of the capsule instead of the priming tool itself, and i then inject it. This is the only way that i can get it to work for me.Tho not as critical as with the primer fully in the priming tool, i still must keep the capsule, the primer and the priming tool on the same axis or i can get a canted primer in the capsule opening.With a steady push, the primer seater will send the primer home tho. Which BTW, this tool works perfectly.
Note: before i forget: a reloaders primer tray is a must have for loading the priming tool. It allows you to flip the primers without having to touch them.
Having been an extreemist of sorts in my past when it came to loading for bench rest type accuracy in all the rifles that i built, i used to say " i allways attempt to achieve EXTREEEM ballistic uniformity"
, i can say that your firing pin length and protrusion is absolutely perfect and firing pin to primer strikes are also perfect. Couldn't ask for a prettier dimple in the primers.
I did this initial shooting using CCI SPM primers and i seated the X-Ring bullet fully at the bottom of the chamber.BTW,the head of the plunger in the priming tool is perfect for seating .45 rubber bullets.
Depriming takes a bit of a tap on the depriming tool to knock 'em loose.One could use the handle of one of the capsule screwdrives but in my opinion that would be blasphemous to mark such a beautiful piece of craftsmanship up doing so.
Oh, speaking of the drivers. The large one for the capsule body stands just a bit proud of the sides of the capsule itself, therefore making it a bit of tight fit, at least on a few of my chambers' nipple area,making it tricky to install the capsule without 'scratching' into the nipple area srounding wall.
This is great being able to shoot rubber bullets in my ROA and use the C&B cylinder. I 'spect i'll be usin up a lot o' primers this winter.I'm fortunate to have about 35' of indoor range from my 'parlor to my kitchen.
Tho 15-20 is all that is needed.
I wanted to ask you. Once the threads are chased, will the cylinder still be able to accept the nipples for standard C&B use ? Mmm. ..on 2nd thot. All i gotta do to answer that is thread one o' my nipples into the Work Block.