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How do you remove primer crimps on mil brass?

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gfanikf

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I'm at my wits ends trying to decrimp LC 3006. I have the RCBS Pocket Swager Combo, but it seems to not work on a Lee Turret or Hand Press. I've rammed them through and I swear it looks like nothing changed. Now something that kind of worked was putting the brass upside down in a drill bit and using a chamfer, buts inconsistent (perhaps I'm not running it long enough), and I have to wonder if putting the brass in the drill bit could cause any case damage.


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Hi,

I used to re-cut the primer pocket with my RCBS trim mate tool, but this became far too slow and cumbersome. I now use a Dillon Swager. Set it to properly bottom out and away you go. No fuss, no muss!

CB
 
I've rammed them through and I swear it looks like nothing changed.
Click to expand...
Have you measured the difference or tried to seat a primer? Properly swaged pocket doesn't look much different from a pocket with the crimp still there.
 
MtnCreek said:
Have you measured the difference or tried to seat a primer? Properly swaged pocket doesn't look much different from a pocket with the crimp still there.
Click to expand...

Really? I though t the crimp ring should be gone? I haven't gone to measuring them as I didn't thing anything was working.

cbmax said:
Hi,

I used to re-cut the primer pocket with my RCBS trim mate tool, but this became far too slow and cumbersome. I now use a Dillon Swager. Set it to properly bottom out and away you go. No fuss, no muss!

CB
Click to expand...

I keep feeling like I should just get the Dillon and be done with it, but its not cheap.

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The crimp ring will still be there. Only the little 'crimp' or small amount of brass that extruded in toward the primer is removed. I like to see a very slight radious at the opening for the pocket. I've never used the RCBS swager, but I'm sure it will work if properly set up.
 
MtnCreek said:
The crimp ring will still be there. Only the little 'crimp' or small amount of brass that extruded in toward the primer is removed. I like to see a very slight radious at the opening for the pocket. I've never used the RCBS swager, but I'm sure it will work if properly set up.
Click to expand...







Blue68f100 said:
The RCBS swager works fine if adj right. Like they have already said the outer ring is still there, but the inside of the pocket has been opened up at the top.
Click to expand...

Well that explains things. Could anyone post some before and after pictures? It would be a very helpful reference for me.

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USSR said:
Do yourself a favor and get the Dillon Super Swage 600. One of the wisest investments I've made.

Don
Click to expand...
If I can offload my RCBS dies, I think I might just do that, especially since I can make it pretty much automatic using this guide.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/309270_.html

Only issue is you have to mount it, but I assume C Clamps will work the magic they always seem to be able to do.
 
It doesn't look any different before and after.

If you lose patience with that tool, as I did, get a RCBS bench mounted swager. Works great and much faster and easier. Dillon has a similar tool for about $25 more.

I now use the swaging spud to measure primer pockets of range brass to see if they need to be swaged. So not a total loss.
 
Only issue is you have to mount it, but I assume C Clamps will work the magic they always seem to be able to do.
Click to expand...

Clamps may get in the way of its operation. Mine is secured to the bench with 3 wood screws.
 
C-clamps might work, but screws or bolts are the real solution. You have to give the handle a pretty good crank.
 
moxie said:
C-clamps might work, but screws or bolts are the real solution. You have to give the handle a pretty good crank.
Click to expand...
For the moment I only have a workbench that I can't drill holes into (it's borrowed from my dad...who despite not using it for a decade gave strict instructions)...still it It does have holes in it that might allow for mounting.
 
Clamps and Screws then. Screw the swager onto a board and cut the screws off flush on the underside so they won't hurt the table. Clamp the board to the table with a peice of cardboard between the two.
 
The RCBS is expanding the crimp out of the brass-you'll understand better when you prime the brass. The crimp ring will remain.

BUT-the CH4D swager/primer combo will do it much faster and easier, and it's much cheaper than Dillon or RCBS's upgraded swagers. I would wager faster than Dillon as well because you only have like 1 inch of press movement and it can be done as fast as you can swap out brass in your shell holder. I went through 100 rds in less than 3 minutes.

http://www.ch4d.com/catalog/priming/419000

I know I'll get all kinds of arguments from a lot of Dillon fans, but they need to realize I'm a Dillon fan as well. Try it--it's cheap, high quality, made in USA, and best of all FAST. Makes a big difference when you have thousands of rounds to swage.
 
I bought the dillon swager and am very happy with the product. I swaged 1300 rounds of 5.56 as quick as I could load the brass, pull the handle, remove and repeat. I believe in the buy once, cry once method and the dillon lives up to it's reputation for quality and ease of use.
 
gfanikf said:
I'm at my wits ends trying to decrimp LC 3006. I have the RCBS Pocket Swager Combo, but it seems to not work on a Lee Turret or Hand Press. I've rammed them through and I swear it looks like nothing changed.
Click to expand...
I use an RCBS Swage Combo and it works very well BUT, the instructions clearly state: "Note: Not for use on Progressive Press." That should include a turret press but they didn't write it that way.

I own a Lee Classic Turret press and an RCBS Rockchucker and I have to mount the Swager on the RCBS press for it to work properly without making any modifications. On a good note, once you have it set up it's very fast!

Might I suggest buying a very inexpensive single stage press like the one offered by Lee. Like This One. It won't be a waste of money because you can also use it as a decapping station with a universal decapping die and a friend also uses one for neck sizing only.
 
ArchAngelCD said:
I use an RCBS Swage Combo and it works very well BUT, the instructions clearly state: "Note: Not for use on Progressive Press." That should include a turret press but they didn't write it that way.

I own a Lee Classic Turret press and an RCBS Rockchucker and I have to mount the Swager on the RCBS press for it to work properly without making any modifications. On a good note, once you have it set up it's very fast!

Might I suggest buying a very inexpensive single stage press like the one offered by Lee. Like This One. It won't be a waste of money because you can also use it as a decapping station with a universal decapping die and a friend also uses one for neck sizing only.
Click to expand...
I should mention I removed the middle part of the Turret press to make it function like a single stage press (or try to). I think I might just sell the turret (since the removal I did wasn't more than taking out the middle spindle) since I'm not planning on reloading any pistol calibers and at the moment there is no reason for me to need a turret one. Then again the Single Stage Turret mod seems to be work otherwise.
 
You can use the Swager on the turret press if you remove the black plastic chuck that holds the auto-index rod in place. It's only one small nut and bolt and you won't need the auto-index since you said you're not loading handgun rounds now. That would save you a lot of money and the press itself is strong enough to load rifle ammo.
 
ArchAngelCD said:
You can use the Swager on the turret press if you remove the black plastic chuck that holds the auto-index rod in place. It's only one small nut and bolt and you won't need the auto-index since you said you're not loading handgun rounds now. That would save you a lot of money and the press itself is strong enough to load rifle ammo.
Click to expand...
I tried that at one point, but I since I was expecting the entire ring to be gone, and when it wasn't, I gave up on it. I think I might try that again tonight first.

That said if anyone has a comparison between the two tips and how to measure and verify it's different. I have a feeling all my methods I tried actually did work in retrospect since you could see the red primer sealant larger disappear (indicating something was removed). I also suspect issues with brass getting stuck was due to the die not being lubed and the brass needing another lube.
 
When you swage a crimp, the visual appearance of the ring or the staking remains. Those marks are never going to go away. The key is that the opening of the primer pocket, through which the primer must go, was shrunk by the crimping but is reopened by the swaging. The fact that there is a visual remnant of the crimp is of no consequence.
 
beatledog7 said:
When you swage a crimp, the visual appearance of the ring or the staking remains. Those marks are never going to go away. The key is that the opening of the primer pocket, through which the primer must go, was shrunk by the crimping but is reopened by the swaging. The fact that there is a visual remnant of the crimp is of no consequence.
Click to expand...
I guess I can try taking a before and after picture and measures with deprimed and resized round before and after I attempted to swage it. I just don't want to think I've done it right and then find all the primers are pain to get in, which indicates I didn't do it right.
 
gfanikf said:
I guess I can try taking a before and after picture and measures with deprimed and resized round before and after I attempted to swage it. I just don't want to think I've done it right and then find all the primers are pain to get in, which indicates I didn't do it right.
Click to expand...
Pictures won't help in determining if you have swaged the primer pocket correctly. The easiest way is to try seating a primer. If you haven't removed enough of the crimp, you will have difficulty in seating the primer. If you have over-swaged, the primer will seat with too little resistance. Its a "feel" operation.
 
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