HoosierQ
Member
50/50 mix of 5w30 Mobil one and Marvel's Mystery Oil. Very slippery. CLP as well.
Working in the automotive business, actually with automatic transmissions, the primary purpose of ATF is a hydraulic fluid. Lubrication is second. ATF is also very hard on many plastics and rubbers. Plenty of seal materials will dissolve in ATF.
I don't believe the hype about micro pores in metals and marketing crap.......Don't worry about the application process with the heat gun and what not, just apply and heat it up at the range. I did the process in the beginning, as did many people who used FL with no discernable difference. It may just be there to make you believe the micro-pore crap.
The oil one uses is your choice. I too have some automotive/truck mechanical experience being a PA State Certified Inspection mechanic since 1978. Inside automatic transmissions are plastic parts and rubber seals and there are vehicles on the road longer than I have been working on them with original automatic transmissions. If ATF attacks the seals, it must be a slow siege. I will go out on a limb and say the preservation of the plastic and rubber parts over long periods inside a transmission would be a design concern when chemists blend ATF. In fact, we used ATF very effectively in motorcycle front forks as they preserved the rubber seals. Some motorcycle manuals recommend ATF as the fork oil of choice knowing all the seals are rubber.
As a long time mechanic and longer time competitive shooter, ATF works great but what you use is up to you. YMMV literally
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNUlpnJSKEIRushthezeppelin: I'll check that video out! I guess you're right for the barrel, but i figure if you take it to the range, it will get hot enough to 'heat treat'
I will try mobil 1 once I run out of frog lube, but you use so little it will last me another 2-3 yrs to use it up.
I use it mainly because it's so dang easy to clean my rifle, cuts lot of time away when all you have to do is wipe down your BCG, upper, and bore snake.
Its interesting that most of you use oil over grease
Should try it on your handguns. Works just as well, just be more sparing instead of slathering the bolt with the stuff (I do that too on my AR ). The rust prevention properties alone should be enough to get you to use it on your EDC at least on the slide/other exposed metal parts. I just use 2 drops on a patch to lube the guide rails, bottom of the slide and top of the barrel. Clean up the sear assembly every once in a while and put some in there too. I've gone 300 rounds between quick cleanings with no malfunctions (I have a Sarsilmaz Turkish CZ clone, poly framed) and it barely shows any carbon buildup, most of it is the cutout in the slide where my ejector rides into. I would not be the least bit surprised if she could do 500-800 or more between cleanings with no noticeably ill effects but I clean too much when testing loads to see how little whole gun fouling I get from a load, plus I doubt I could go that far without feeling guilty.I use FrogLube paste on my AR's.
It stays where I put it, even when I use a lot (better more than less when lubing an AR), it works great as a lube, it smells great, and it works great as a lube.
It's all I use on my AR's, and I don't yet use it on anything else.
If I was to use something else it would be Slip 2000 EWL, which is what I use on my handguns.
Thats because we're the majority.
Motor oil is NOT a carcinogen. USED motor oil is. Can we stop spreading this misinformation already?