Glock does put anti seize on the rails of their pistols. The anti-sieze is more for protecting things during storage and shipping of new pistols. I have seen it debated to death on whether you should leave the anti seize on the rails or remove it before shooting the pistol for the first time. I personally leave the anti seize in place and clean/lube everything else that needs it before shooting a Glock for the first time. I usually only shoot 100 rounds on the first range trip to test before doing a good cleaning of the pistol and then shooting some more for final break-in and testing. Other people's methods might differ from mine.
Lubricant question….
- Thread starter Anchorite
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NMexJim
Member
I will admit to liking one oil (besides Mobile One synthetic) well enough. In fact, I bought 24 bottles and was giving them away to my sticky fingered friends at the range. A little Mobile One grease, a little M12 …….
This really does a nice job of sticking on slides - almost as good as Mobile One. Great on fine shotguns too. Better than KY Jelly.
This really does a nice job of sticking on slides - almost as good as Mobile One. Great on fine shotguns too. Better than KY Jelly.
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It is Loc-Tite C5-A antiseize. It's there for break-in and should be left in place until it normally wears away. Look up the ingredients of most anti-seizes and you will see that it has very fine quartz particles in it. This gives it a very fine abrasive quality which, combined with the grease content lets the parts wear in to each other over time.
It is not for shipping protection. It is for lubrication/break-in and should be left in place initially but does not need to be replaced (with anti-seize) after it wears away.
There's really no debate. Glock says to leave it in place until it wears away. Once it wears away, I like to use a very light grease anywhere the anti-seize was originally applied, but oil works too.
If the anti-seize is completely removed from the ramp/cam area of the slide before shooting, it will become much more critical to keep that area lubricated in the future. I've seen one example where a new Glock was cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner which totally removed all the lubricant and the ramp/cam area of the slide was not re-lubricated since the old manuals didn't show it as a lubrication point. The result was that the friction between the slide and the connector "ear" in a brand new pistol without lube was enough to cause the gun to malfunction.
I would not use anti-seize long-term as a lubricant because most formulations have abrasive qualities. It's probably not a bad idea to use it for break-in, but after that, a regular grease is a better choice than most anti-seize compounds. I guess you could look for one that doesn't have the abrasive content if you really like anti-seize.
RetiredUSNChief
Member
All I can think of is "How badly do you want to make your blued guns look stainless?"
Seriously, I think many people think too much about this. Lube/grease is there to perform two functions:
1. Lubricate.
2. Protect against corrosion.
If what you're using is performing both these functions flawlessly, then why mess with a good thing?
I'm down with trying new things, don't get me wrong. But don't expect to see any noticeable improvements in the two functions.
OP
OP
Anchorite
Member
Oh I agree completely. What started my journey into this is my 20-plus year old tube of white lithium grease was empty (think tooth paste tube).All I can think of is "How badly do you want to make your blued guns look stainless?"
Seriously, I think many people think too much about this. Lube/grease is there to perform two functions:
1. Lubricate.
2. Protect against corrosion.
If what you're using is performing both these functions flawlessly, then why mess with a good thing?
I'm down with trying new things, don't get me wrong. But don't expect to see any noticeable improvements in the two functions.
I‘ve always dabbled small amount of grease on my pistol slides and other critical points, and followed with oil particularly for extended range sessions. For bolt guns, action lube on the lugs and finger-tip oil in raceways from time to time. Not a stringent routine by any means, but (according to some) I just entered the 21st century and got an AR so I was revisiting my stash and I began to wonder what new advancements have come along in the realm of lubricants and thought I’d return to the Oracle for advice. Turns out I feel great about what I’ve been doing for the last 30-plus years.
dobedo
Member
I use the copper-based Anti-seize on mt shot gun chokes, as it is made for high temperatures. The silver stuff does not hold up as well when exposed to heat.
OP
OP
Anchorite
Member
I think anti-seize is best suited for those chokes.
The Night Rider
Member
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When I worked as a machinist we used something called Way Lube on the "Ways" (analogous to the slide rails on a pistol) of the machines.
If I remember correctly Way Lube was Vactra 90 weight oil.
That said, Grant Cunningham know more about it than I do.
If I remember correctly Way Lube was Vactra 90 weight oil.
That said, Grant Cunningham know more about it than I do.
There are two kinds of silver anti-seize. Aluminum based and nickel based. The aluminum based is for lower temperature applications, but the nickel formulations should tolerate even higher temperatures than the copper anti-seize.
doubleh
Member
Nickle based anti-seize was what we used on steam lines in the gas plant I worked in for a time. Coat one connection sparingly and carefully and then nothing could seize you or your clothing for the rest of the day. It got all over you. Coppercoat, the brand name for a version of copper based anti-seize, was very popular as a the oilfield as a joint compound. It was bit less prone to traveling than the other kind. I have never found a need for either on firearms. Some recommend anti-seize for AR barrels but I don't mess with ARs. I could see where it might come in handy if you are into prolonged mag dumps and barrel changes.
It may be silver colored but it's a Moly paste. Low friction, metal free lubricant.
Just as messy as anti-seize too.
OP
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Anchorite
Member
I have found that engine assembly “lube” is fine for the AR. It’s got the consistency of oil. I’ll pass on anti seize for the AR.
I used to use Lubriplate #105 as I have tons of it.
But it separates and turns yellow after a bit.
The input shaft seal kit for steering boxes comes with a small tube of grease that I used on slides for a while.
Then I was out when it was about 35 deg or so and started having issues with return to battery till it warmed up a bit.
Solved those issues with the Lubriplate SLF grease.
Doesn't separate or oxidize and has an operating temp of -50 deg to 350 deg.
You used to only be able to get it in a 5 gallon bucket, same with the oil, came in a pack of 4 gallon jugs.
Once they packaged it in smaller tubes for guns I switched to it.
But it separates and turns yellow after a bit.
The input shaft seal kit for steering boxes comes with a small tube of grease that I used on slides for a while.
Then I was out when it was about 35 deg or so and started having issues with return to battery till it warmed up a bit.
Solved those issues with the Lubriplate SLF grease.
Doesn't separate or oxidize and has an operating temp of -50 deg to 350 deg.
You used to only be able to get it in a 5 gallon bucket, same with the oil, came in a pack of 4 gallon jugs.
Once they packaged it in smaller tubes for guns I switched to it.
doubleh
Member
I got into buying trashed Harley ironhead sportsters, rebuilding them, and then selling them. I assembled them using lubriplate. Then I switched to four wheelers that had become very popular and used the same for assembly but I have never used it on firearms for some reason. I always saw it as a lubricant that was to go away with the first oil change on engines. I still have a couple of tubes of it stuck in a drawer. I imagine the plastic tubes would crack from age if squeeezed
NMexJim
Member
Powermad posted that Lubiplate now has a dedicated gun grease and oil. I'm like you, I've used a lot of Lubraflatchi (as we called it - as in "get me a tube of Lubriflatchi") to put close parts together, but we would never have trusted it for any serious pressure protection. It is an engine assembly grease.
Here's the link for the new products:
www.lubriplate.com
Lucas Oils who has been around in the West for a long time came out with a full series of firearm products which might lead one to believe that it's diverted from their industrial line in some way. I think all lubricants come from some industrial base. I'd think they'd have to. Now, the article above: Lubrication 101, was interesting enough, and I wouldn't doubt that there are undesirable additives. I wipe my guns down after use and re-lube as necessary. I don't have any pits or spalds or anything that I can see. Who knows?
Here's the link for the new products:
SFL Gun Grease & FMO Gun Oil | Lubriplate Lubricants Co.
Lucas Oils who has been around in the West for a long time came out with a full series of firearm products which might lead one to believe that it's diverted from their industrial line in some way. I think all lubricants come from some industrial base. I'd think they'd have to. Now, the article above: Lubrication 101, was interesting enough, and I wouldn't doubt that there are undesirable additives. I wipe my guns down after use and re-lube as necessary. I don't have any pits or spalds or anything that I can see. Who knows?
RetiredUSNChief
Member
Powermad posted that Lubiplate now has a dedicated gun grease and oil. I'm like you, I've used a lot of Lubraflatchi (as we called it - as in "get me a tube of Lubriflatchi") to put close parts together, but we would never have trusted it for any serious pressure protection. It is an engine assembly grease.
Here's the link for the new products:
SFL Gun Grease & FMO Gun Oil | Lubriplate Lubricants Co.
Lucas Oils who has been around in the West for a long time came out with a full series of firearm products which might lead one to believe that it's diverted from their industrial line in some way. I think all lubricants come from some industrial base. I'd think they'd have to. Now, the article above: Lubrication 101, was interesting enough, and I wouldn't doubt that there are undesirable additives. I wipe my guns down after use and re-lube as necessary. I don't have any pits or spalds or anything that I can see. Who knows?
Nice! I'm liking the tube application! How "fine" is the nozzle of the tubes? Easy to "dot" oil into/on slide grooves and such?
doubleh
Member
I ran across a high moly content grease on Amazon a couple of years ago named Super Slip if I remember correctly. I searched my purchase history but gave up before I found my order. It is the slickest grease I have ever used. It was advertised to even reduce trigger pull and I tested it on a semi-auto handgun that had a 6# pull. It reduced it to 5#. It has become my grease for siding parts and triggers that need a little help. It is a bit like anti-seize in that it tends to get all on you despite your efforts to not let it.
The Night Rider
Member
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FWIW I think I've said this before but for most of us most of the wear that's going to be on our firearms is going to come at the range. I make a point of putting a few drops of oil on the slide before I shoot at the range.
NMexJim
Member
it's pretty new and I haven't laid hands on it as yet. You might get there before I do.
